2002 Ford Explorer Right Rear Window Regulator

I got 2 window regulators went out two years ago on my Explorer 2003. Your window regulators would be the same as mine.
First, you need to check the regulator bar, the vertical bar in the panel that drives the cable. There should be two wheels on the bar, one on the top and one on the bottom. Look at it carefully if you see there are two wheels. If you have only one wheel on the bottom and the top one is a slide bar, you need to replace the regulator.
Check it first and PM me. I will be happy to tell you how to put it on. It's too long to explain it on here.
Tran

Could you help me on the front regulator? I saw your reply here, have 1993 explorer, uses same regulator.

PM me. I'll tell you exactly how to do it. This process need a little more detail to deal with. Remember, I just only want to help you with the problem of the Explorer. I will not charge you anything.
Tony

I am getting a message that I can't pm you because I don't have 10 messages posted. I have the manual and it says to make sure the regulator arms are in a fixed position. I just wonder if I can use duct tape to secure them in this position or do I drill a hole and use a screw.

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Hopefully next time I can pm

I keep trying to send a pm but it always appears in the outbox not sent. So I am posting my? Here--I was wondering if I use duct tape on the arms to secure them so the c-spring doesn't move or should I drill a hole in the arms and use a bolt to secure them so they don't move. Also, I would guess I have to do this in while they are collapsed in order to remove it, right?

Now I know that the c-arm isn't correlated to the spring--except the one bar connecting to it--when I look into the car I can't see how to connect the part with the spring to the bar, there is no room there and I cant think of any way to do it unless I drill a hole though the inner door to access it. -- From playing with it, it seems that if the motor was disconnected and the window out that it should relieve the tension on the spring automatically and that I would only have to drill out the rivets and remove the bolt to take it off, and as long as I have the other bars taped together (folded down and taped together) that I could savely remove the unit without hurting myself. If you see my post before I start and reply I would be grateful.

I just read the original post fully--saw the year of the car and since the part on the website were I was purchasing said 91-2003 thought it was the same, but now I realize the original post said something about cables so mine is different--scissor type not cable. I think I have it all figured out will be ready to do tomorrow.

Hi all, I uninstalled the old one and found why it was binding, I cleaned up the mess and found that I was able to salvage it by removing all the rust on the bars and the debris in the channels, the slides and gears were still good so after cleaning and lub I decided that I could use it again, I then found that it caused damage to the motor, so now I am going to find the parts and work on fixing the motor. (According to another forum there is a kit available from napa with the 3 plugs that were ground up and if not I will buy the motor, but at this point I hopeful it will not take much more to fix fully)

Just thought I'd let u know, I was able to fix the motor also (other forums had details on that), so since I was able to fix the old regulator and motor I am out about 4 bucks and have a working window!

Nance 459 where did u find a kit a fix motor