It's possible, but I left the dealership in '99 and there was a lot of trouble with a different style of switch up until then.
I don't have a service manual for your van so what I'd suggest is going right on the wires at the switch with a test light or voltmeter. If you find two where the voltage drops out when you wiggle the wires, one of them has a break in it. Look for the connector at the base of the column and measure the voltages there too. If you find voltage at the base but not at the switch, that wire has a break.
If you find the voltage goes away on only one wire, it's due to an arced contact inside the switch. With the switch turned off, find the wires that have voltage. There will typically be two or three. Close the doors when you check so the circuit that powers the halo light is turned off, if that is still used. That will give you one less wire with voltage to confuse the issue. Now you know the feed wires, and those will be larger gauge wires. Use a stretched out paper clip to jump a feed wire to the one with the voltage dropping out. When that brings the dead circuits back to life you will have proved the switch is the culprit.
If the voltage doesn't drop out on any terminal at the switch, measure on all the wires at the connector under the dash. The voltage has to be getting lost on one of them after it leaves the switch.
Wednesday, November 14th, 2012 AT 4:44 AM