2002 Buick Rendezvous break-line

Tiny
JJAMESW
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 BUICK RENDEZVOUS
The problem is that the passenger side break-line broke and we would like to replace it but we are having trouble finding where the line hooks into the manifold next to the break fluid reservoir
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Saturday, April 12th, 2014 AT 1:53 PM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Mechanics have the same problem. Where exactly did the line break? Are you referring to the steel line or the rubber flex hose? It is rather difficult to replace the entire steel line on the passenger side. Instead, unless it's rusty, look for a straight section where you can cut it. Install a standard fitting, make a double flare, then install a union and a short section of pre-manufactured steel line. If there's a metric iso flare at the connection to the flex hose, you may need to buy that type of line, then cut the flare off one end, install a standard fitting to fit the union, and make a double flare on that end.

Ford uses a messed up rear steel brake line on the older Taurus that has a standard flare on one end and an iso flare on the other end. Many auto parts stores stock them now. You may be able to make one of those work. As I recall, they're about a foot long.
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Saturday, April 12th, 2014 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
JJAMESW
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The steel line broke just above the exhaust behind the engine. The line is no longer of any use it has rusted too much to be of any use.
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Saturday, April 12th, 2014 AT 2:42 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
In that case you can cut off the old line in sections as you work your way back to the master cylinder. Assuming you don't have anti-lock brakes, GM uses a design with four lines coming out of it. You should be able to follow the line to the correct port. Save all the pieces so you can add them up to get the right length.

Be aware that they use a master cylinder with a valve that blocks fluid flow to any line with a leak. That valve can also trip during bleeding procedures. If necessary, you may need to give a quick, short blast of compressed air into the open bleeder screw to reset that valve, then just let the line gravity-bleed. Never press the brake pedal more than half way to the floor. Besides damaging the master cylinder on any car, doing that will trip that valve too.

If you do have anti-lock brakes, just follow the steel line to the port on the hydraulic controller. The rest of the bleeding procedure is the same.
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Saturday, April 12th, 2014 AT 3:07 PM
Tiny
JJAMESW
  • MEMBER
We have anti-lock brakes
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Saturday, April 12th, 2014 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I looked up your master cylinder and it looks different than the style with the internal valve. Regardless, just follow the steel line to the hydraulic controller. I don't know which type of flares they used on each end, so save the pieces and take them with you to the auto parts store. They'll be able to match the flares and fittings with a pre-manufactured line of the right length. They might have to use a union with two steel lines to get the right length. That will make snaking the sections in place easier. If all they have is one that's a few inches too long, you can add some small bends to take that up, but try to keep it away from hot engine and exhaust parts.
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Saturday, April 12th, 2014 AT 3:34 PM

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