Fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're defective. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. There are a number of different fault codes related to that valve but basically there are three ways for the system to have a problem. The most common is the valve gets gummed up and the motor can't turn the threaded shaft to run the valve in and out. That can set an improper idle speed-related code but usually no code is set. The typical complaint is the idle speed is too low and the engine often stalls at stop lights. You also won't get the nice idle flare-up to 1500 rpm when starting the engine. The second cause is a break in a wire for one of the four coils inside the motor. That is very rare to begin with and it usually requires two wires to be broken before the computer will detect that. These valves really don't fail very often. The third and most common cause is one of the four wires to the motor is broken. If you have a fault code related to an electrical problem, look for a broken wire, or a corroded or stretched terminal in the connector. The motor will not turn at all if one wire / terminal has a bad connection. If the idle speed does change but an electrical code keeps on setting it is due to a momentary break in the circuit due to engine vibration that is being detected by the computer. That only has to occur in one wire for a fraction of a second to set a code.
Next, you can't see the IAC valve move when it's installed. You might be looking at the throttle valve but the engine shouldn't even run with the fresh air tube removed because the air won't be going through the mass air flow sensor which it must do for the Engine Computer to calculate how much fuel is needed.
The IAC valve gives the computer a lot of control over idle speed but it won't run it up to 3,000 rpm and leave it there. It sounds like you already found the cause of the high idle with that vacuum leak. The computer can close the IAC valve completely but that isn't going to overcome a vacuum leak. If a gasket is no longer available, use some RTV gasket sealer to seal the leak. Be sure to let it set up and cure for an hour or two before starting the engine. I used it once as a very effective temporary fix, but when I started the engine right away it got sucked in and disappeared!
Shifting into gear at 3,000 rpm is real hard on the transmission and the engine mounts. Of course that will bring the engine speed down, but then you'll most likely be driving at 35 mph without pushing the accelerator pedal, and that will be hard on the brakes. Concentrate on fixing the vacuum leak first.
Saturday, July 27th, 2013 AT 7:55 PM