Wow. You've been waiting less than a whole hour! Some people wait patiently for a day or two before someone with the answer sees the post and replies. I had to search for your original question because you didn't put anything useful here and not much more on your original question. Do you really expect anyone to know the solution when you don't provide any detail? Most people won't even take the time to respond when they have to guess or have to drag top secret information out of you. The fact you posted a second question shows you're at least sticking around to continue the conversation, and therefore deserve a worthwhile reply.
"Sticky" gas pedal has been used to describe one that is hard to push, then suddenly breaks free and moves. It can move freely and smoothly but with more difficulty than normal. It can move up and down normally, but when it's fully released, the engine speed remains too high. That is a real common complaint on Fords for many years. It can mean you can push the pedal like normal, but then it stays there and won't release. You can have a mechanical problem that usually has an easy solution or an electrical problem with the computer controls.
If the pedal works normally but engine speed remains too high, first suspect the coolant temperature sensor for the Engine Computer. Those have caused a lot of trouble on Fords, especially in the '90s. The common complaints are idle speed too high, and erratic idle speed or surging. A vacuum leak can cause high idle speed on any car but those typically do not change with changes in engine temperature. You may need to use a scanner to view live data to see what the Engine Computer is seeing from the various sensors and is responding to.
For mechanical problems, first check if the pedal is catching on a floor mat. Next you have to determine if the sticking is caused by the pedal assembly, the throttle body, or the cable that connects them. Sticking cables are not common. They COULD easily stick when they are cold so they are specifically designed to prevent that. Start by grabbing the cable under the hood where it attaches to the throttle body. Pull up on it to see if the throttle valve opens freely. If it doesn't, the bushings may be worn and causing binding. There could be carbon buildup too. If that is severe enough it might impede free movement, and that could change as parts warm up and expand.
Of course if the sticking only occurs when the engine is cold, that's when the testing has to be done, not after the problem goes away. If the throttle blade moves freely, have a helper hold it open, then reach under the dash and pull on the cable. There's no spring pressure on it now so if it sticks, first check if it is kinked anywhere. If not try spraying both ends where it comes out of the outer casing with Silicone Spray Lube. That goes on like water, then evaporates and leaves a film of "slippery" behind.
If the cable moves freely, suspect the pedal assembly. Check for small rocks and other debris around the pivot. You can try Silicone Spray Lube on the pivot too but problems there usually don't involve a sticky material. They usually involve rough metal surfaces that are grinding away from the formation of rust. If lubricating those parts helps, it usually won't be for long. Be careful to not spray Silicone Spray Lube on the pedal because it can make it easy for your foot to slip off.
Monday, January 7th, 2013 AT 10:06 PM