Easiest way is to open the bleeder screws at each wheel, loosen the cap on the master cylinder reservoir, and let it gravity bleed. Let the old fluid run out of the reservoir first so you don't just dilute it, then when the level gets real low, fill the reservoir and let it continue bleeding. When you see clear fluid coming out of one of the bleeder screws, tighten that one and wait for the others to do the same. Don't let the reservoir run completely empty because air will be drawn in and cause a mushy pedal.
When you're done, do not fill the reservoir. See how full it is before you start bleeding and fill it to the same level. If the fluid was somewhat low when you started, the front brake pads are worn. When new ones are installed in the future, the fluid level in the reservoir will be higher. By not filling it to the top now, you leave room for that fluid to go when the new brake pads are installed.
You can speed up the bleeding process by having a helper press the brake pedal, but just do one wheel at a time and close the bleeder screw just before he releases the pedal to prevent air from being drawn in. It is also real important to never push the pedal more than half way to the floor. Doing that runs the lip seals over the crud and corrosion that builds up in the area where they don't normally travel and can rip them. That will result in a slowly sinking pedal when it is applied.
Be absolutely certain not a hint of petroleum product gets into the brake fluid. That includes engine oil, transmission fluid, and power steering fluid.
Friday, June 17th, 2011 AT 8:32 AM