Yup, but the cam holding tool is for assembling the engine. You were originally asking about taking it apart. If it isn't all the way apart yet you might want to set the crank at top dead center, then take a few pictures of the other pulleys. Use some paint to make the marks more visible if necessary.
A good way to start reassembling is to bring one piston to top dead center, back it up a little so no piston is all the way up, then you can install and torque the head knowing no open valve will hit a piston. Rotate the cam sprocket so it's at top dead center, then back it up too about the same amount. THAT can be easier said than done, especially if you're fighting with two camshafts. The point is no matter where you turn the cams, no valves will be hitting a piston. When everything is close and the timing belt is installed, THEN you can slowly turn the crank forward by hand to top dead center, then check how many teeth you're off on the other sprockets. If you feel a clunk in the crank, stop, back up, and reset the cam sprockets, then slowly try again. When everything appears to be correct, rotate the crank forward two revolutions, stop at TDC, then recheck all the timing marks. During those two revolutions you'll feel the intermittent resistance of a piston coming up on top dead center on the compression stroke, and if you turn it slow enough that pressure will leak out and the crank will start turning easier. That resistance to turning is gradual and soft, and feels a lot different than a valve hitting a piston.
If you loosen the timing belt to move it a few teeth on a sprocket, a camshaft can get away on you due to valve spring pressure pushing on a lobe. If you fight with that more than a few minutes you may want to find that holding tool you mentioned. I watched a former student struggle for hours with a GM engine with four camshafts, and once he borrowed the fixture from the dealer, the job took less than an hour.
Sunday, September 30th, 2012 AT 1:34 AM