1999 Buick Century Custom replacing intake manifold gasket

Tiny
ANGELICABEAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 BUICK CENTURY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 129,000 MILES
I am repairing my 1999 buick century custom atm. I have the manifold off. But where I live they dont have reliable mechanics with HONEST based knowlege and experience. I havent put the manifold back on as I have a problem with this design of the gasket. The rubber around the ports on the gasket itself being very thin and the gasket being plastic. The kit calls for ONLY placing silicone on the block front and back ends and where the pins/pegs on the gasket go. I have a real problem with this as it doesnt seem feasible that it will hold to me and some one here told me that their shop makes their own rubber gaskets for the front and back ends.I dont see how they do that because of where the gasket sits near the ends of the block. The plastic gasket almost touches the block on the bottoms of it and I argued that when you torque the manifold down it could crack the gasket there because using the rubber would bring the manifold higher up when it sits on it but I need to know if anyone has done this as its not what the OE calls for using rubber. Up til now all the engines I have ever rebuilt I always use RTV around the entire ends and around the block then on top of the gasket. I have never had an engine leak before, and I have never dealt with this plastic design of gasket before. I also looked this up and apparently Buick has has many problems with this design on many of their models from around 1995 and up. Lol I can see why. Can someone please give me a heads up otherwise I will just use RTV (thinner amts on the gasket itself) as I have in the past on other manifold gaskets. I dont want to have to take this off again. Also I am NOT flushing the system and putting the factory coolant in it I will put the universal coolant in it that is for all vehicle makes. Need someones advice that has dealt with this problem before. Thank you. Angelicabear

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Saturday, January 1st, 2011 AT 11:30 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Just put the rtv on the valley ends and where the gasket meets the block at the obttom. Don't worry about the plastic/rubbergasket as that is the design and make sure to follow the torque sequence with the kit. You may have to pull the pushrods out of the way to install the gasket.
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Saturday, January 1st, 2011 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
ANGELICABEAR
  • MEMBER
Okay ty. Yes I had to pull the push rods out. And torqued the rods bolts down as specified after putting the gasket on. I almost went ahead and pulled the heads and replaced those gaskets also just to be sure they didnt heat and crack. But I didnt. The day this happened. I did pull in the yard and saw the coolant sitting underneath the thermostat housing. Checked all hoses. And water pump as it couldnt have been that its on the opposide. The4 coolant leaked on the driver side. When I researched it I read this unfortunately this was common problem with Buicks since around 95. The car has stayed parked since I never add wateror coolant to a vehicle as many people do even with it running. Never liked taking that risk. Thank you so much for you help.
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Sunday, January 2nd, 2011 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
You can add coolant anytime as you have a coolant tank and that isn't pressurized. After you fill your system, over fill justa little bit and then check after a couple of days of driving. It may go down a little and that is normal. Make sure to put a 50/50 mix in and not any stronger. That will give you the best all around protection and bring your freeze level to -34 or so.
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Sunday, January 2nd, 2011 AT 10:27 PM
Tiny
ANGELICABEAR
  • MEMBER
K ty for all your help. I live in Texas and there are no consumers laws here so there are many so-called mechanics that live here and they jungle rig many of the cars. I dont do that unless I am stranded in the desert. Lol again, thank you so much for your help :-)
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Sunday, January 2nd, 2011 AT 11:43 PM

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