1998 Doge Caravan radiator valve

Tiny
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  • 1998 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 136 MILES
Would anyone have step by step (and written out visuals) of how to replace a 1998 Dodge Caravan radiator valve? My valve went out last year, causing cold air to flow out of my cabin vents. I got it checked out by a shop and they fixed it for me, worked fine all that cold season. Now it's messing up once more and I'd like to take care of it myself this time. Also my leaky engine (leaks oil) is acting up, or perhaps the electronics are, I'm good on oil right now, but the "warning" light for oil turns on/beeps when I am at a stand still, and turns off when I press on the gas, causing the engine to run-moving the oil. I figured this last part was some sort of oil sensor fault. Thank you very much for any answers you can offer. <3
Sunday, November 28th, 2010 AT 4:05 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
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I have to be honest. 30 years in the business and I don't know what a radiator valve is. There is a drain valve on it to drain the coolant. But that won't cause you to get cold air unless it is leaking and you are losing coolant. Then the engine would overheat.

As far as the sensor, it could be the oil sending switch. My question is how low is the engine idling?
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Sunday, November 28th, 2010 AT 6:13 AM
Tiny
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My bad on the radiator valve question. A few weeks before it would overheat a lot, causing me to put in a lot of 50/50 mix, Finally I added a stop leak solution and this ended the overheating problem. I hear something coming from the drivers side like a electronic switch moving, and sometimes the sound of water gurgling. Now I have on, and off again heat.

The times when the oil light pop on is when I am not pushing on the gas. Like at a stop light, slowing down before I push on the break, and when I'm pushing on the break. Gently pushing on the gas relieves the noise/light.

Thank you for any help you can offer.
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Monday, November 29th, 2010 AT 12:27 AM
Tiny
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Based on what type of stop leak you used to fix the leak may have plugged the heater core, you could be low on coolant, there could be an air pocket. The noise you hear and the oil light bother me. Coolant, when it reaches its boiling point, will boil. However, you should see that on the temp gauge. My next concern is a bad headgasket. Have you checked the oil to make sure there is no coolant mixing with it causing it to be watered down? It will make a tan creamy substance. Finally, I need you to test something for me. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Let me know if the coolant comes flowing or spraying out.

Joe
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Monday, November 29th, 2010 AT 11:59 PM
Tiny
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My dad and I replaced the thermostat yesterday, he had me check the oil color and it was fine, there was a lot of air under the thermostat so he added some 50/50 from the point of the thermostat. We have it put back and I drove it home it seemed to keep heat, and I have not had the oil light come on (yet) I doubt this really fixed all of it, but I'll let you know if things have changed.
I will also check the radiator cap thing you suggested.
-Thank you once more Joe!
-Amy
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Tuesday, November 30th, 2010 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
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I removed the cap to the radiator, no fluid seemed to be coming up.
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Tuesday, November 30th, 2010 AT 9:56 PM
Tiny
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Amy,
Let me know if you have other questions. And I'm glad to help.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 4:31 AM
Tiny
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So it was a good thing that it was not burping up 50/50?
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Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 6:16 AM
Tiny
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Yes! I thought it may have been a bad head gasket. If pressure was building from a headgasket, it would have caused the coolant to come out.
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Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 11:22 PM
Tiny
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Well it seems as I may have a problem still. My oil light (idiot light as my dad calls it) keeps coming on, he suggested I get my oil pressure checked, thinks it may be a oil pump problem. I will try to check this out at a shop tomorrow unless there is a home version that I do not know about.
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Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 4:38 AM
Tiny
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All you need to do is get a mechanical oil pressure gauge from a parts store. Many will lend them to you. Remove the electric oil sending unit from the engine and screw in the mechanical gauge to it. Start the engine and it will give you a reading. It's not hard to do. Also, if you are not hearing any ticking or knocking when the light comes on, chances are the sending unit is bad.
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Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 1:17 PM
Tiny
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Thank you very much, I will check this out.
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Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
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Again, let me know if you have other questions. It isn't hard to do, so if you can, save the money.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, December 3rd, 2010 AT 3:04 AM
Tiny
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I took it by a mechanic I trust and he suggested taking the oil pan off and looking at the sump-pump, possibly having a dirty filter. So We are going to try that this weekend. Thank you for your help, I appreciate it greatly!
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Friday, December 3rd, 2010 AT 5:27 AM
Tiny
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I believe he is refering to the pick up tube screen. Let me know what you find.
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Friday, December 3rd, 2010 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
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Before removing the pan, have you replaced the oil sending unit?
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Friday, December 3rd, 2010 AT 4:12 PM
Tiny
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No. My dad didn't know where that was, and the shop said it would take a while to check that. They told me it was easier for my van to check the pick up tube.
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Friday, December 3rd, 2010 AT 4:40 PM

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