I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde, and the trunk release is not working. I don't want to troubleshoot blindly, and was wondering if there is a relay in the trunk release system. If so, where is it at? I have trouble shot electrical somewhat, and there is no power getting the the trunk release module.
I only have a '97 service manual but it should be the same circuit. Can't get any more simple or common sense than this one. Fuse 13, a ten amp on the left side of the dash feeds the switch in the glove box on the pink wire. The brown / white wire goes from the switch to the latch solenoid.
Check for voltage on the pink wire going to the switch. If it's there, jump the two wires together. If the truck pops, the switch is bad. If it doesn't pop, check at the solenoid to see if voltage is getting back there.
July, 24, 2011 AT 8:28 AM
The switch is on the driver's side in the 98's. Was a few electrical changes done. And it doesn't open with the wireless entry either.
July, 24, 2011 AT 9:01 AM
Well, so much for common sense. My next service manual is for a 2000 model. This circuit shows fuse 19 feeding the switch on the pink wire, then a black / white wire goes to the Body Computer, connector 1, pin 1. The Body Computer sends a voltage out on connector 7, pin 2, a different black / white wire to the solenoid. I'm not sure what problem they found a solution to by adding the computer, but check the switch again by jumping the two wires. Check for voltage at the solenoid. If it shows up there, be sure the ground is good, then replace the solenoid.
As a hint, the decklid ajar switch shares the same ground. If the dash light turns on when the trunk lid is open, you know the ground is okay.
July, 24, 2011 AT 5:56 PM
It is fixed. Thank you. The reason for the new release going through the computer is to step down the voltage to 6V, for the module has a 6V motor in it. I found this out because the pins that insert into the motor from the connector were bent, and the the connector itself was broken from the module case. Straightened out the pins, glued the connector back to the casing, and works as good as new. Thank you for the help.