Find the two ends where it's bolted on with the soft metal nuts. Remove those, then buy a pre-manufactured line with those same size nuts and the same type of flares on the ends. You can connect two lines with a union to get the needed length or you can add a few small bends to shorten the new line to fit. You'll need to be able to loosen a bleeder screw after that line to get the air out. Since the car is more than a year old, do not ever push the brake pedal more than about half way to the floor. Doing so will run the lip seals in the master cylinder over the crud at the bottoms of the bores where they don't normally travel, and can rip them. That will require replacement of the master cylinder too. If the pedal already went down too far because of the leak, the master cylinder could already be damaged so prepare yourself for that possibility.
When you refill the master cylinder reservoir, be absolutely certain you do not get any hint of grease or petroleum product in contact with the fluid. That will contaminate the entire hydraulic system and require replacement of all the parts on the car with rubber in them that contacts the fluid.
To get the old line off, it is acceptable to cut them flush with the soft metal nuts, then use a clean, grease-free six point socket to turn them out. Use a flare-nut wrench, also called a "line wrench", to tighten them without rounding them off.
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Friday, November 16th, 2012 AT 8:51 PM