I'm currently working on a 1995 Dodge B2500 van with the Starcraft conversion package. I have no dome light whatsoever. Checked the bulbs, light fixture and fuses and everything checks out. I have replaced the headlight switch twice now (from Autozone) and still no success. I have even ran a seperate ground wire directly to the battery to a prong on the side of the head light switch thinking ground may be bad. If I turn the light switch to the left the illuminated ring around the ignition key stays on and drains the battery, but still no dome light. There are a bunch of relays both under the hood and in the glove compartment area. But which one do I change or check? From what I found there is about 9 in total. Another problem is, when the driver's door is open the buzzer goes off, however the 2 side doors and the back door does not set the buzzer off. All the other conversion lights work, reading, courtesy, valance and the TV/VCP work. Checked all the circuit breakers under driver side dash for the conversion package and they seem to be working properly. Power supplied to both terminals. What do I do next other than taking it to to the dealer to figure it out aat $100 an hour!
Another problem I have is I recently bought a Reese 4 flat wire harness that just plugs right in to the back for trailer lights. The white wire coming out does not give me a ground. I can touch a bolt in the back and put my test light to the other plug wires and I get juice to the other 3 wires. Could this be a related to the problem also with no dome light?
Hi you did not say if you have power to the hot side of rhe dome lamp when switch is on? Yes I have seen many times problems with the trailer light harness cause interior light probs and external lighting probs. The switch is working normally as to the key lighting up when yurned on. [Lease let me know if you have any voltage going to light and if you have ground at lite when switch is on thanke Billymac
November, 9, 2011 AT 12:48 AM
Hey Billymac, No there is no power to the hotside of the dome light, but I didn't check voltage, just used a test light. And no I didn't check the ground. I'll try tomorrow. Quick question though, would the remote keyless entry have anything to do with this? Still trying to search and came across that scenerio. The RKE FOB does open and lock doors, but no light goes on.
November, 9, 2011 AT 12:56 AM
Well that certainly is a possibility, however should not have any effect on the manual controls.
November, 10, 2011 AT 7:32 PM
Hey Billymac, Sorry we had a little snow storm here yesterday and couldn't get out.
Here's what I got, with the headlight switch all the way to the left or right (meaning past the clicks) I get zero reading on both wires. With the headlight switch in the middle, where its supposed to technically be, on an orange wire I get between.1 and.09 voltage reading. On the white wire I get 5.6 volts reading. (Mind you I'm just using a cheap Harbor Frieght $3.00 meter)
I've also removed and disconnected the stock radio, because I read somewhere else this may cause a problem. I've also disconnected and removed another radio thats in the back for rear passengers, becuase its a coversion package.
I also removed the headlight switch again, however I get sparks coming off of it when I touch it to the metal dash board.
November, 10, 2011 AT 9:50 PM
Hi when you turn your switch to the on position, that would normally turn the dome on check and see which post on the back of the light switch powers this is where your power starts. Now you have to trace that wire if you have no power when you switch dome switch on then you have a prob with the light switch.
Next thing you will want to do is power the unpowered post on the rear of the light you should be able to lite up the dome light if you can switch is problem if you can't problem between switch and light. The voltage you are reading is just feedback. This is normal.
Hope this helps. Billymac