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Previous question was on what the last owner.

Tiny
GALLENT
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 SATURN SL2
  • 165,000 MILES
Previous question was on what the last owner said she thought was going on, after getting car in my possession, I have found out better information.
Car runs fine but the transmission seems to be starting out in 2nd gear. (Seems like someone through out an anchor) Once the car gets to about 25 mph, it runs fine and seems to shift through the rest of the gears OK. Could this be a faulty shift solenoid? When it comes time to test the solenoid, what ohms reading should I get on a good solenoid vs a bad one. I have not attempted to check the readings on them yet. If this is bad, where can I go to get a replacement for a decent price?
I checked the speed sensor and there was no filings on it at all, and when I metered it, I showed about 750+- ohms and when moved over metal or magnet, it jumped to above 1000. So I assume it is good.
I also changed the trans, filter. And fluid looks and smells good and is proper level.
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2012 AT 6:32 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
If your starting out in 2nd gear the transmissions in fail safe mode because of a pressure issue etc or you could have something like a plugged cat etc making you think your starting out in 2nd gear. Have you check checked for codes in the computer yet?
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2012 AT 6:43 AM
Tiny
GALLENT
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  • 7 POSTS
The only code is 12 12 25 28 82. I had thought about the plugged cat myself but have not tackled that problem yet. I assume the problem with code 82 would be because I have a bad battery and am waiting on funds to get a new one. The car cranks slow, and that could be why it is throwing the 82 code. The 12 code is letting me know it is in diag, mode.
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2012 AT 8:42 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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Is the code 25 a transmission or engine code they cross over for both. Also I dont see a code 28 listed for that car are you sure you have a code 28?Also the code 82 is for a pcm internal failure so I dont see a low battery causing that code. But I would replace the battery make sure the battery cables are clean and tight and recheck the codes and make sure the alternator is good.I have seen bad batterys cause some. Issues.
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2012 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
GALLENT
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  • 7 POSTS
After going out and checking the codes (yet again). The codes that I came up with were: 81 82 61, 62. But the last 2 are tranny codes that do not seem to exist. I did a small video of the flashes. Will try to upload them to you. The 28 code did not come up this time and neither did 25. 25 was an engine code.
81 is my abs and the abs lite is on.
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2012 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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The 61 and 62 are engine codes there for pcm internal failure it says replace pcm. So where I would start is by replacing the pcm. Then go from there.
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2012 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
GALLENT
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61 and 62 were the 'HOT' light blinking. So that is tranny code. Not engine code. Ok went to the GM dealership and talked to one of the mechanics that has been there since before the dinosaurs, he put a meter on it and came up with a bunch of codes. He deleted them and only 2 came back up. 81 82. I had cleared the codes and drove the car about 15 miles, it jerked and slamed into all gears including reverse. Told this to the tech, he suggested that springs may be bad in module, or a bad module on the tranny. (Dont remember the exact name) and also suggested that a ground fault, or bad ground? Possibly under the fusebox under hood. What other suggestions do you have? He tested the actuators and they worked with the test equip. Tomorrow I am going to take the top off and check the springs, and connections on top of tranny. Will let you know if I find anything.
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Thursday, November 15th, 2012 AT 1:21 AM
Tiny
GALLENT
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Not module. Valve body and where can I go to get a cheap on or reman for good price if it is bad?
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Thursday, November 15th, 2012 AT 1:25 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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The spring in the pressure regulator bore in the valve body sometimes breaks in the valve body. Also what happens is the valve body bore wears and the pressure regulator can stick in the bore causing the pressure in the transmission to be too high or low. But you will need a transmission pressure tester to diagnose it properly.I can recommend a pretty cheap one I have to test it that works well.I also wouldnt go bargain basement for a replacement one those are more trouble then there worse.I would go with one with the sonnax upgrades they bore the pressure regulator put in a sleeve new pressure regulator improved spring and boost valve that will stablize the line pressure and line rise.I have the kit to bore and sleeve the valve bodies with the sonnax upgrades. Because I got ripped off when I bought valve bodies for my sisters brothers and friends saturns thank goodness for ebay protection. So I got the kit to rebuild them myself I even rebuilt the valve body in my saturn.
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Thursday, November 15th, 2012 AT 7:30 AM
Tiny
GALLENT
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How hard is it to rebuild. can a backyard mechanic do this?.. I used to rebuild carbs on my old 72 plymouth fury and 75 Chevy pu 454 4bbl. Even the one on my 85 toy pu 4x4. Where can i get the kit and are there any special tools needed? and does it come with new actuators?.. I saw one on ebay for about $50 but didn't look into it at all. if the springs are broke will just replaceing them do the trick or should a replacement/ rebuild be of consideration. I will be opening it up in the morning/afternoon and will test the solenoids. and look for broken springs etc, plugged ports, or anything out of the ordinary. but I will not seperate or open the valve body unless that is where the springs are.
I also saw a valve body on ebay with a one year warranty, is that good for $110.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-S-Series-Transmission-Valve-Body-1992-2002-SC1-SC2-SL1-SL2-/230880560705?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c18dc641&vxp=mtr
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Thursday, November 15th, 2012 AT 8:01 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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To do the sonnax upgrades sleeve etc it takes a special tool kit with a drill bit reamer and guides to bore and ream straight you have to completely disassemble the valve body clean and reassembly it.I would say that sonnax upgrades was not a typical diyer job. Plus the tool kit sells for 300 and something to 500 and something.I got my tool kit on ebay used for a incredible deal bored 4 valve bodies with it but to bore the 5th one I had to have the drill bit sharpened it went dull half way thru the job. The valve body you sent me the listing for sounds like the ones I bought.A junk yard one they clean up ohms check the solenoids and resemble.I got three off those from ebay one was doa out the box one had a bad line pressure solenoid right out of the box and 3rd one lasted 2 weeks and the car was undriveable it was so bad. Thats why I was so made I did some research and got the sonnax tool kit and rebuilt my own valve bodies. If the spring breaks the regulator and bore will be damaged. The bore is part of the valve body so it will have to be sleeved.I will try to attach a pic of a broken spring and regulator to show you. As far as getting to the regulator you have to remove the valve body and seperate the upper half from. The lower. Then take apart the pressure regulator bore to see if its worn etc. The first step is using a pressure tester to trouble shoot the transmission. Iam factory trained and I even still need to do that before removing the valve body. Also I always air check the clutches while the valve body is off.
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Thursday, November 15th, 2012 AT 7:04 PM

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