Rear brake line replacement

Tiny
JKBOYZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 93,000 MILES
The rear brake lines that run along the left side of the vehicle towards the rear wheels are rusted badly and need to be replaced. I am looking for help in how to disconnect the brake lines from the distribution block which is tucked under the brake booster in the engine compartment. Does anyone know the best approach to reaching the fittings? When looking up at this area from under the car you can barely see it much less get a wrench on the fittings. It is not possible to reach the fittings from the engine compartment without taking a few things apart. Not sure if removing the master cylinder and brake booster will provide the proper access and it is a big job for not knowing whether that is the best method. Alternatively we looked at removing the front left wheel inner fender liner but the bolts are rusted and breaking not to mention how much electrics are attached on the engine compartment side. Thank you for any help with this repair question.
Friday, December 28th, 2018 AT 12:31 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 34,331 POSTS
For a better approach, that line is usually not badly rusted for the first few feet until it gets down to just in front of the driver's door. If you can find an area there that can be cleaned up, consider cutting it there, adding a brass fitting, then making a double flare. That way you can install a union and run sections of new line with the fittings and flares already put together.
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Friday, December 28th, 2018 AT 2:01 PM
Tiny
JKBOYZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks for the reply. We will take a closer look at the condition of the lines as far upfront as possible. Our impression at this point is that the condition is so bad that we are not able to splice in a line and avoid disconnecting at the distribution block. Unfortunately we live in an area where winter and the salt on the roads takes a huge toll. Thanks again for the advice and quick reply. If anyone else has an idea on the best way to get at the fittings on the distribution block I am interested so we can weigh the options.
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Friday, December 28th, 2018 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Going with Caradiodoc no need to make work and tubing should be good after block. Unless your rebuilding a points car no need BUT do double flare line. Maybe able to rent tool from auto parts
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Saturday, December 29th, 2018 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 34,331 POSTS
Sorry to hear of your living conditions. I'm in the middle of Wisconsin where they throw a pound of salt on an ounce of snow. Now they don't even wait for the snow. They're dumping some liquid on the road as soon as the weatherman says we might get a little snow. That liquid is even worse than road salt.
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Saturday, December 29th, 2018 AT 4:17 PM

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