P1300

Tiny
MIKEJ75
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 LEXUS ES
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
I have a lexus es 300 1994 and a p1300 code keeps poppin up the car runs great I changed out the ignitor thats what the p1300 code is and it is still doing the same thing the car runs if u reset the code and it cools down but after about ten of fifteen min it dies. There r not cut wires nothing anyone has rigged up I have cleaned all the grounds on the car I dont know what else to do would u think this may b a computer problem I have owned the car for about two months and this just started happening
Monday, March 28th, 2011 AT 12:30 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Go through the following and see if you can come up with anything.
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Monday, March 28th, 2011 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
MIKEJ75
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
So with these test I maybe would come up with haveing to replace the harness? The ignitor is fine I bought a brand new ignitor for 500 dollars didnt work. Or replace the ecm?
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2011 AT 3:20 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Diagnostics tests are an elimination process and if any component is found to be faulty, it has to be repaired or replaced.
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2011 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
MIKEJ75
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I work at a mechanic shop so I did put the meter on everything n the diagrams that showed. Everything seems to b working correctly in the wiring harness for the ignitor all voltage isin the areas shown. The only thing I saw funny was the ecm part im not sure if the car has to be running during cheack that or being cranked I tried it with the igniton just on like the ignitor part tells u to do. Funny thing happened after tryin to still crank it a guy that has his own shop down the road said tap it with hammer not hard just a tap as u are tryin to start the car. I did that and it showed five trouble codes. Well I erased them ond only the p1300 code came back the card did start but turned right back off. I decided to take the battery off charge it for a while and also just take the hole computer out. About two hours later I went back to it and plugged it all back up I hit the computer a lil harder this time because I was getting fed up and it started it ran till I closed up my shop so it was like 45 min I drove it about ten miles the coad did not pop back on until I let it sit running for about 10 min and walked back to it and erased it before the code would pop on at every crank I have a handle held n my had the hole time im doing all this also to erase everytime it comes on with all this being said I just really want my car to run do u think it may be the computer now?
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Wednesday, March 30th, 2011 AT 12:40 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If tapping the PCM makes any difference, yes, I believe it is the likely cause. Remove the cover and check for contaminations and corrosions. Look out for signs of water entry and leaking capacitors.

If capacitors are faulty, they can cause symptoms described. Replacing the capacitors should work.
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Wednesday, March 30th, 2011 AT 9:59 PM

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