When I push break pedal I hear a single click sound from under dash & while pushing brake dash lights come on & stay on until pedal is released. This happens with or without motor running or ignition switch being on ! Also when headlights switch is on, left side turn signals don't flash ! But with headlight switch off all turn signals work fine ! Advice from 2 different jeep dealerships I have replaced headlight switch, break light switch & flasher, without any of these changes making anything work the way it's supposed to work ! Please help if you can ! I am an elderly man of 68 years young and live on social security ! And it seams that some dealerships take your money without any results and don't even say they are sorry !
Try cleaning your bory to batter ground that is kind of what it sounds like it's try ing to get agorund form wherever the the system tah ais on. Check your rear ground for tailights it should hook to theframe in the rear there if it's goot goor ground then they will work. YOu could also have a bulb touching two filaments with headlight on it screws the system up.
November, 28, 2012 AT 3:02 AM
REALLY SOUNDS LIKE IT COULD BE THE "GROUND THING" AND MAYBE THE "BULB THING" ---AT WORK RECENTLY, AN OLDER PICKUP HAD SORTA SIMILAR ISSUES WITH THE DASH LIGHTS AND SIGNALS
SEEMS PEOPLE "OVER THINK" OR JUST DON'T THINK AT ALL WHEN INSTALLING A "1157 TYPE" BULB
THEY DON'T RECOGNIZE ONE T.IT IS LOWER THAN THE OTHER ON THE BULB--OR WHEN LOOKING IN THE SOCKET THEY JUST DON'T SEE WHICH IS THE HIGHER OR LOWER
NEVER THE LESS--THEY'LL CRAM IT IN ANY WHICH-A-WAY
WHAT WE FOUND ON THE PICKUP, WAS THE SOLDER TIPS ON THE BULB WERE CRAMMED IN THE MIDDLETHE SOLDER ON THESE BULB TIPS SOMETIMES GETS "SMEARED OR DISTORTED"----END RESULT WAS ONE BULB CONTACT, WAS CONTACTING BOTH SOCKET CONTACTSTHIS WOULD BE THE SAME AS THE FILAMENTS TOUCHING EACH OTHER
OTHER HAYWIRE GROUND RELATED STUFF I'VE SEEN IS WHEN A BODY OR FRAME GROUND BREAKS OR GETS DISCONNECTED---IT GETS NEGLECTED AND NOT PUT BACK INTO PLAY---SOMETIMES THE GROUND FOR THE BODY IS ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CLAMP
I'VE SEEN A "BAD" ENGINE GROUND, IN A CABLE CLAMP, ALONG WITH "GOOD" SMALLER GROUNDS GOING ELSEWHEREIN THE EXACT SAME CLAMP
UPON ATTEMPTING TO RUN THE STARTER WITH THE KEYTHE ENGINE "BIG CABLE" GROUND WAS USELESS---SO IT "SEEKED GROUND" THRU THE SMALLER WIRES ON THE CLAMP. THEY COULDN'T HANDLE THE LOAD, SO THEY, AND EVERYTHING TOUCHING THEM GLOWED RED, INSULATION BURNED OFF.......AND LUCKILY THE HARNESS' AND CAR DIDN'T CATCH ON FIRE!
IN THE LINK BELOW--A LOT OF THIS IS INFO YOU DON'T NEED--I JUST SORTA WANT TO GET THE POINT ACROSS THAT YOU MUST BE AGGRESSIVE AND THOROUGH IN CHECKING CONNECTIONS....EVEN SIDE MARKER LIGHTS OR A TRAILER PIGTAIL COULD THROW THINGS INTO A TIZZY
KEEP US POSTED ON WHAT YOU FINDA VOLTMETER SET ON "OHMS" MIGHT AID YOU DOING CONTINUITY TESTS---WEEDING OUT WIRES THAT SHOULD NOT HAVE CONTINUITY TO GROUND (THIS COULD GET INVOLVED, IF YOU ARE LOST WITH USING A VOLTMETER)