Park it starts but when in drive or reverse no gas is going to the engine

Tiny
TWALLACE0225
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 BUICK CENTURY
  • 325,986 MILES
Search Results for 93 buick century 3.3 clydiner v6 engine changed the fuel pump when in

About a week or so ago my car just cut off in the middle of traffic and wouldn't start. It would turn over but make a popping sound(like a gun shot) and cut right off. When I talked to my father he said that it might be the fuel pump. I had to tow the car home and it sat for a week and a half before I had a chance to get it fixed. When the fuel pump was changed it started with no problem and ran fine. But we didn't try to drive it after it started. When I got up the next morning to run to the store for something; it started and when I put it in drive or reverse it acted like there was no gas going to it. I had to let it run for a minute and when I put it in reverse or drive I had to hold the break down and to see if it would cut off or not.

When I tried to give it some gas to move the car it would not do anything. I had the gas peddle all the way to the floor and nothing it would not move. Like it was not getting gas to the engine. When in park and neutral it would do fine and I could press the gas and it would rave up. But in drive and reverse it would not do anything. What could be wrong? I had to goggle it to see if there was anyone with the same problem and could give me some help.

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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 1:43 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes?
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 2:59 PM
Tiny
TWALLACE0225
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No diagnoistic done on it as far as the trouble codes. None of the service engine light or other lights have come on even when I tried it later on today. I thought the trasmission was out but it goes into gear with no problem. Just no gas when pressing on the gas pedal when in drive or reverse.
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
If you think it is a gas issue, use a gage and check fuel pressure. If your fully obd1 compliant you shouldn't need any special tools to check basic trouble codes. You should be able to use a jumper wire between the A & B terminals at the datalink connector. Then you turn the key just till the dash lites come on, no further. The mil starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit codes.
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
TWALLACE0225
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I'm sure what that means with the codes. The person that helped me with it was not able to come back over to look at it today. Which left me at a stand still again. My milage don't flash she rolls over she doesn't have a digital screen like some of the newer models. So I'm not sure what you mean with count the flashes. Help please.
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
There should be an aldl connector along lower edge of dash, prabably between steering wheel and driver door. It should be a 12 pin connector, you can count the cavities. Note the diagram, where to use jumper wire between terminals A & B. With the key on, no crank, the service engine soon lite goes to flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. As an example, a code 12 would be 1 flash a slight pause then two quick flashes. This may flash three times before moving to next code.
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
TWALLACE0225
  • MEMBER
Ok I went out to check the little box under ther stering wheel and it was there. I had no idea what that little box was for till now. Ok in the diagram that you sent I have something in the box B A, L, and M but there is nothing in the F and E box. Now when I turned the car on but not cranked it; there were two quick flashes and then the service light stayed on. I'm sitting in the car right now and the light is still on. Now another question if I'm missing something in the F and E box does that mean something is wrong. Do I need to replace the F and E with a fuse or something?
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
A & B are the only ones to worry about when checking codes. Did you use the jumper wire between A & B terminals? If you did and the lite just stays on, could be something wrong with computer, or the wiring circuit. I can't see what your doing from here.
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 9:15 PM
Tiny
TWALLACE0225
  • MEMBER
JDL I didn't have a jumper wire I have to borrow it from someone cause I'm a woman learning as I go. Knowing the cost of going to a shop I have had to rely on my father who was the previous owner of the vehicle. But since I moved to another state it's hard for me to go home and have him look at it. Cause he know the car like the back of his hand. Now every person that I have had and trusted to look at the care for me have all just cut me short or I have had to spend more than what I needed to spend. Again this is what I'm looking at taking someone on there word and getting stuck. NOw I have to digg deep and look to see if there are other things that Ih ave missed or that they have missed when the replaced the fuel pump. Cause it is hard for me to believe that all of a sudden that there was another problem when it was fixed and now it's not. I think I have to climb under the car and make sure that everything that needs to be connected is connected correct and check some other things. JDL any other advice you can give would be great!
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Tuesday, March 20th, 2012 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
I understand. Let us know what you find.
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Wednesday, March 21st, 2012 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
TWALLACE0225
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I will let you know JDL I have to wait until the guy can come over again. Right now I'm not driving so I have to wait. But when I do know I will let you know. Thanks again have a nice one.
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Wednesday, March 21st, 2012 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Did you ever get it going?
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Saturday, September 15th, 2012 AT 6:37 PM

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