Ok my first question was after replacing front.

Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
  • 1990 NISSAN STANZA
  • 150,000 MILES

Ok my first question was after replacing front bearings, and axle my wheel wouldnt tighten up.I checked the bearings and they were just shattered into pieces. Someone said that they sold me wrong size bearings so I got right size bearings installed them the wheel tightened up fine. Drove around the block come back jacked car up checked the wheel and again very loose. Please help this problem has cost me a fortune and going insane trying to figure this one out

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Tuesday, October 30th, 2012 AT 2:54 AM

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Tiny
KHLOW2008
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I believe something was not done correctly.

WHEEL BEARING R & I (STANZA)

REMOVAL

1. Remove hub and steering knuckle assembly. Place assembly in a vise. Drive hub and inner bearing from steering knuckle. See Fig. 8. Using a 2-jaw type puller, remove inner bearing from hub. Remove outer grease seal.

2. Remove inner grease seal from steering knuckle. Remove inner and outer snap rings. Remove outer bearing. Press bearing race out of steering knuckle (through back side).

INSTALLATION

1. Install outer snap ring into steering knuckle. Press bearing race into steering knuckle. Coat inner and outer bearings with multipurpose grease. Install inner snap ring into steering knuckle. Install inner and outer bearings.

2. Install outer grease seal. Carefully press hub into steering knuckle. DO NOT apply greater than 3.3 tons of pressure. Check wheel bearing preload. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.

The axle shaft lock nut should be torqued to 174-231 ft. Lbs.

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Tuesday, October 30th, 2012 AT 2:12 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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I agree but IM female so please break it down for me just what would cause. It to tighten up but then loosen again vertically and horizontally while just driving around the block

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Tuesday, October 30th, 2012 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
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How did you tighten the axle shaft lock nut, the big one in center of hub?

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:19 AM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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I believe they just used plyers but the wheel was tight before they let Jack down I checked it then I rode around the block and come back jacked it up and. It was loose again

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
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I mentioned it needs to be torqued at 174 - 231 ft lbs. Pliers? Either I understand this system wrongly or you have the wrong guy doing the job. Improper torquing would result in damage to the bearings as the nut is not holding the bearing correctly.

To be sure I understand the problem correctly, send me a picture of the hub with the center nut.

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
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Here is a video and I thank-you so much for helping me
Truely Donna IM sorry it didn't. Let me send video let me go take tire off and get pic

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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Here's pic

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
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Yes, the central nut has to be torqued correctly and I believe that is the cause of the problem, improper torquing.

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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OK I know this sounds stupid but how do you. Torque and what do I use to do it

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
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For proper torquing, a torque wrench is required but most people would either use an air impact wrench or get someone to depress the brakes while you use a breaker bar to tighten the bolt.

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:18 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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OK and how do I know when its torqued to that specification

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:23 PM
Tiny
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If you have a torque wrench, you have to adjust it to the specified torque and the wrench would click when the torque is achieved. If you don't well, you need to guess and if you use a 2 foot breaker bar, I would say if you push hard on it, it should be sufficient.

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:30 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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So my hub and stuff looks OK?

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:31 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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Image 2

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:34 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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Also if I use a beekeeping bar I need to have car in neutral and someone pressing on break Is that correct

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:37 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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Breaker bar that is
IM sorry

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Wednesday, October 31st, 2012 AT 10:39 PM
Tiny
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If the hub can be put into the bearing cone and taken out easily, it is not ok. Either the hub has excessive wear of the cone seats or the bearing are not of the correct size. To install the hub, you need to press them in with a hydraulic press.

Yes, you are right about the tightening of the nut.

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Thursday, November 1st, 2012 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
DONNAWOODLEE
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OK now your not gonna believe this. OK on the driverside when I took bolts out for caliper and rotor well the hub just came right off with it. Not they didn't happen on pass. Side.I can't get it off. So which side is correct?And what is the reason for side that's wrong?Also I just replaced starter but bought it used and its no good just clicks when I try to start. Not I noticed there is only one bolt other one missing. Could that be wh
y it only clicks
yours truely
Donna

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Thursday, November 1st, 2012 AT 9:00 PM
Tiny
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The side that you cannot take off the hub is correct. That is why I mentioned in my previous reply, either the hub is bad or you have the wrong bearing.

A single bolt to hold the starter would result in it only clicking if that bolt is insufficnently torqued( tightened). This would result in poor grounding circuit for the starter and it can break the starter housing over time. If starter only clicks, it can also mean the starter is bad.

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Friday, November 2nd, 2012 AT 3:39 PM

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