1990 Chrysler Imperial crysler Imperial ABS brake problem

Tiny
JESSELITTLETON
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 CHRYSLER IMPERIAL
  • 3.3L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 77,000 MILES
Hi,
My ABS light, anti brake light comes on and off when driving the car. Yesterday when coming home
the car was stopping by itself. When I parked the car the front wheels were hot. I bleed the brakes.
Im thinking it's the ABS hydraulic boost? It's a Bosh When looking on-line my other half came up with a pump by bosh for 450.00 and the full assembly for 950.00 Not sure where to go.
Was also going to check the brake lines. Any thoughts on what to check? Please give me a list of what to do
and what to look for.
Also what to replace?
Thank you
Jesse
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Saturday, February 21st, 2015 AT 12:38 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
A parts store can tell u what code in that system. Take it there so u will know what code is your problem.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2015 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
JESSELITTLETON
  • MEMBER
The part number dosent help. It's a boch I've tried that.
This is why I found you
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Saturday, February 21st, 2015 AT 1:00 PM
Tiny
JESSELITTLETON
  • MEMBER
Both lights come on while stepping on the brakes.
The front wheels are hot after driving this for an hour
Any thoughts?
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Saturday, February 21st, 2015 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
Here are the instructions to pull the ABS codes without a scanner
The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) has self diagnostic capability, to assist in isolation of ABS faults. This feature includes 16 fault codes which can be displayed by the Anti-lock Brake Control Module (ABCM) through flashing of the red BRAKE warning lamp. Only one fault code can be stored at a time. Any codes that may have been present are lost when the ignition is turned off. It may be necessary to test drive the vehicle to duplicate the condition and set the Fault Code (See TEST DRIVING VEHICLE). In order to access the ABS Fault Codes, enter ABS diagnostic mode as described below.

The following information is to be used for reference when directed by the appropriate diagnostic procedure. Do not attempt to diagnose an ABS condition starting here.
1. Turn ignition to ON. Remember that fault codes are erased when the ignition is turned off.
2. Release parking brake. Check to see that parking brake is not causing the BRAKE warning lamp to illuminate. If it is, disconnect the parking brake switch at the parking brake pedal.
3. Check to see that a fault has been detected, the BRAKE warning lamp or the ANTI-LOCK warning lamp should be illuminated. If not, verify complaint by test driving vehicle. Proceed slowly, checking the operation of the service brakes.
4. Once a fault is detected, without turning off the ignition, depress brake pedal fully with firm pedal effort.
5. If a fault code is present, after about 5 seconds, the red BRAKE warning lamp will begin to flash. Count the number of times the BRAKE warning lamp flashes. Lamp flashes should be interpreted as follows:
a. The number of times that the lamp flashes represents the number of the fault code.
B. If the lamp does not come on at all, crank the engine to perform a BRAKE warning lamp bulb check. If the lamp does not light, repair the BRAKE warning lamp as required. If the lamp does light, no fault codes are present. Attempt to verify the complaint again, or use symptom diagnosis methods as directed by appropriate diagnostic procedures.
C. If the BRAKE warning lamp stays on continuously during the diagnostic procedure, see DIAGNOSIS BY SYMPTOM information as directed by the FUNCTIONAL CHECK.

To exit ABS Diagnostic Service Mode, simply release the brake pedal. When the BRAKE warning lamp begins to flash, the brake pedal may be released. If the brake pedal is held down continuously, the fault code will repeat in about 10 seconds

Fault codes can be cleared by using the DRB II diagnostics tester, or they will be automatically cleared after 50 ignition switch ON/OFF cycles.
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Saturday, February 21st, 2015 AT 3:53 PM
Tiny
JIMS914
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 CHRYSLER IMPERIAL
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
I have a failed Bosch ABS brake system. There are no leaks in the lines. Rotors and pads are good. Even when an ABS module/master cylinder are available
( through salvage yards only ), the cost is well over
$400. And you only get a non-doa warranty. I want
to change to a standard brake system. What parts
are necessary to do this? Will the new components
mount with the same mounting-bolt holes? What
special cautions are advised?
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Honestly, you really can't change. The PCM (computer) is designed to work with the ABS. Are the brakes presently working?
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PCWHIZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 CHRYSLER IMPERIAL
Hello,

I have a 1992 Chrysler Imperial, Mileage 127,000. This morning I left to take my daughter to school and about half way there, while driving, the Brake and ABS lights came on on the dash. I also had to STOMP on the brake pedal to get the car to stop. While stopped I set and released the parking brake several times with no luck. PLEASE HELP! I really don't want to have to spend big $$$$$ to fix this if it could be something that I can fix.

Thanks. :)
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
R.CASE
  • MEMBER
Have the pump motor relay checked
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Also check the fluid level if it's low or too full. It's trouble! Let us know what U find!
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERRIFICBABE46
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHRYSLER IMPERIAL
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
I have been replacing brake fluid in my wells for a while. Last night, the brakes got really hard. I filled the wells with brake fluid, but nothing changed. Is my abs dead altogether now?

I would get a indicator of "low brake fluid" and once I filled the wells, the light would go out.
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
First and most inportant, I would identify where the brake fluid leak is. Next, if the brake pedal got really hard to push, you lost power assist. Based on what system you have, you could have a large vacuum hose going from the intake to a brake booster that may have ruptured or a bad brake booster. You need to have it vacuum tested if the vacuum hose is good and not plugged. If you have the Bendix 10 ABS sustem, there is a vacuum pump (electric) that may have gone bad (expensive)
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
QUAGMIRE86
  • MEMBER
I had the same issue with a '93 Imperial. It was like there was no "Power assist" at the brake pedal. It is a very common problem on the Chryslers that had the Bendix-10 ABS units. Do a search on the net, there is a safety recall for all of the Bendix-10's. The factory is obligated to replace the units for you. Even though my unit was replaced, and failed again, there is a lifetime warranty on the pump actuator motor and pump unit. It took some pressure on the service dept (on my part), but if you have the service bulletin, they will relent.
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
This is correct. The as mentioned in my previous posting, the Bendix 10 system was a problem, and yes, many of the parts are covered for the life of the vehicle. However, I don't think the vacuum pump is. Regardless, I would check.
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Wednesday, January 30th, 2019 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)

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