This is a new customer. Car has been sitting aprox. 8 to 12 months. Replaced alt. Due to overcharging. 13.5 volts at idle, 18.0 volts at 1500 rpm. I think I just answered my own question. Did that fry the ecm. I hadn't considered that since the car runs fine all sensors seem to be working. Or is the system in limp home mode?
May, 30, 2012 AT 10:08 AM
To obtain an output of the diagnostic codes, proceed as follows: The following initial conditions must be established: Battery voltage above 11 volts.
Throttle valve completely closed.
Transmission in Neutral position.
Accessory switches off.
May, 30, 2012 AT 10:30 AM
Reading my response triggered another thought. If the over voltage did damage to the ecm the car probably would not run, which suggests that the ecm is fine. Therfore, is it probable, that there is a short in the insterment panel that is keeping the light on? If I remove the ecm and the light stays on my therory would be correct. We'll see
May, 30, 2012 AT 7:11 PM
Oh so your sayin your turn key on light is on you start car light is on you jump diagnostic light is on steady.
May, 31, 2012 AT 4:21 PM
I unplugged the ecm, the light went out. Plugged it back in jumpered T&E1 and it started binking out codes first code four blinks (code 4?) Next 11 blinks is that code 11 or the end of the list? It keeps repeating 4 then 11 continously until I remove the jumper. Still can't disable spark timing to set timing the obd that I have is supposed to be the 2 digit style based on year, so why do I get code 4?
May, 31, 2012 AT 4:33 PM
May, 31, 2012 AT 4:45 PM
The thumb of rule for ECM is that if codes are not as listed, you need a replacement ECM, at least for testing.