Intermitant shutting off

Tiny
MANOFIRE
  • MEMBER
  • 1985 FORD BRONCO
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 20,000 MILES
1985 fwd ful size bronco 300 six replaced electronic modualer on distrib keeps shutting off when driving have to wait about 15 minutes then can drive awhile and does it again turns over but seems like it has no fire
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Tuesday, May 31st, 2011 AT 10:51 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Why do you say the module is shutting off? What testing has been done?
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Tuesday, May 31st, 2011 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
MANOFIRE
  • MEMBER
Ok not the module the engine shuts down. Not like runing out of gas but like u pulled the power plug out of it, then will sometimes catch and keep going for a little while like a short in wireing, its on its off. Then I have to sit for a few minutes and it will start well so far it has. I have had minor issues with this bronco but what buggy doesnt have a few quirks. Another Q is what could keep cuttn on and off and kill the juice like this when the engine "stalls" my lights and dash board all work, no fluttering of gauges or idiot lights come on thank you for you time and help
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Tuesday, May 31st, 2011 AT 1:17 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Tuesday, May 31st, 2011 AT 1:20 PM

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