1981 Chevrolet Luv eratic idle, dies, Chevy

THE OLE ETHANOL GAS WILL RUST THE CRAP OUT OF YOUR TANK, ESPECIALLY IF IT SITS FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME - IT MIGHT BE THAT THE "SOCK" IN YOUR TANK IS STOPPED UP

I HAVE "JUGGED" A FEW CARBURETOR VEHICLES WITH MECHANICAL FUEL PUMPS AS A TEST (BEFORE I SNATCHED THE FUEL TANK)

SIMPLY BUY A FEW FEET (LIKE 5 FEET) OF FUEL LINE THE SAME SIZE AS THE INTAKE LINE OF THE FUEL PUMP

REMOVE THE TRUCKS FUEL LINE FROM THE PUMP

INSTALL YOUR 5 FOOTER ONTO THE PUMP

STICK THE OTHER END INTO A FUEL CAN FULL OF GAS

CRANK IT AND SEE HOW IT WORKS OUT

THIS MAY SOUND STUPID- BUT IT WORKS! IT MAY BE EZier TO TRY FIRST, BEFORE YOU "JUG IT"

SEE "MY ANSWER" ON Sep 17, 2010 IN THIS POST BELOW

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-wrangler-1988-jeep-wrangler-engine-issues-when-braking

RETURN HERE (THIS THREAD) WITH GOOD NEWS!

THE MEDIC

WHILE YOU ARE AT IT

LOOK FOR VACUUM LEAKS

A SMALL ONE WILL MAKE THE ENGINE RUN FASTER

A LARGER ONE MIGHT EXHIBIT YOUR SYMPTOMS

LOOK FOR CRACKS IN YOUR HOSES, ESPECIALLY AT CONNECTIONS

LAST TIME YOU DID A TUNE UP? DIST CAP/ ROTOR BUTTON/ ETC/ ETC

THE MEDIC

Dear The Medic,
Thank you so much for this advice. No, it doesn't sound stupid at all! I use only non-ethanol gas (though not sure about the prior owner) but I know the gas tank has a small leak, and the truck has rust problems from being up north, so maybe that's the problem. I will try "jugging" it!
Pamela

KEEP US POSTED ON PROGRESS!

THE MEDIC

Hello, I did the "jug" test but that did not solve the problem (engine pops, can't get it to idle, revs, then quits). So I suppose it's not the gas tank causing the problem. The distributor rotor/cap is new within the past year. I don't see any obvious vacuum leaks. Could it be a bad fuel pump?

LET'S GET REALLY SERIOUS WITH THE VACUUM LINES

PUT A PIECE OF TAPE (OR MORE) ON EACH ONE OF THE LINES AS YOU TRACE IT FROM BEGINNING TO END SO THAT YOU CHECK 'EM ALL!

LOOK FOR CRACKS IN THE BENDS AND ALSO WHERE THEY CONNECT TO THE NIPPLES AT THEIR DESTINATIONS

LOOK FOR HOSES THAT GO NOWHERE, FIND THEIR PREVIOUS ATTACHMENT. IF NOTHING ELSE, STICK A BOLT IN IT TO CAP IT OFF. LOOK FOR A "NIPPLE" MISSING ITS HOSE

MAKE SURE THE CARB IS STILL BOLTED ON GOOD, AND MAKE SURE THE SCREWS WHICH HOLD THE CARB TOGETHER ARE SNUGGED UP TOO.

WILL IT RUN FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME?

'NUTHER POSSIBILITY

SNATCH OUT YOUR IGNITION MODULE AND HAVE IT TESTED AT A POPULAR PARTS STORE, THIS IS USUALLY A FREE SERVICE. CHECK IT OVER AND OVER 5 OR SO TIMES TO INSURE IT DOES NOT FAIL AT ALL

CHECK EVEN THE STUPIDEST STUFF, LIKE PLACE WITH THE WIRES INTO THE DISTRIBUTOR WHILE SOMEONE ATTEMPTS A START. LOOK FOR WIRES THAT MAY HAVE FALLEN ON THE HOT EXHAUST, OR EVEN JUST RUBBED METAL TILL THEY SHORTED

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Hi, The allen screws holding the adaptor plates of the Weber carburetor to the intake manifold were loose. I tightened them and that solved the problem. Thanks for your help!

IF THEY WORK LOOSE AGAIN

TAKE 'EM OUT AND PUT A DAB OF REMOVABLE LOCTITE ON THE THREADS, THEN REINSTALL 'EM

I'VE SEEN THE NUTS COME LOOSE THAT HOLD THE CARBS DOWN ON JEEP CJs DO THIS COUNTLESS TIMES

SAD THING IS, IT'S SUCH A SIMPLE FIX, BUT EVERYBODY WANTS TO TEAR INTO IT EVERYWHERE ELSE, INSTEAD OF REALLY CHECKING "HANDS ON" TO BEGIN WITH

I TOO, WAS AT WITS END WITH ONE OF MY PREVIOUS JEEPS, YOU DO LEARN FROM EXPERIENCE!

SO GLAD YOU GOT IF FIGGERED OUT!

GLAD YOU KEPT US INFORMED TOO!

THE MEDIC