Iam still tring to get my 1964 ford fairlane 260 to idle. I have to keep choking to keep it running. And runs at 1200 RPM, I could not find any vacuum leaks. Can you tell me witch way the bottom plate goes on the manifold it is flat on one side and slots on other side. If the carb was rebuilt wrong what can I look for that was done wrong.
The bottom plate goes with the slots down. Examine the plate closely for being rotted out and leaking vacuum. Common filaure.
As far as the carb, the idle mixture screws on the bottom control idle quality. If the power valve is bad, it will enrichen the mixture to the point of not being able to idle. If the air bleeds on the mixture screws are blocked, the same result.
You need to find a shop with a mature mechanic like myself that grew up with these carbs that can re build it for you.
July, 7, 2011 AT 10:47 PM
You aren't gonna be able to adjust the mix screws, till you get your idle down to specs
. Which I do not know, probably 600-700 RPM
Right now you are running on the mains at 1200. Not even on the idle circuit.
As far as tweaking them in, once you get down, one of us can explain your adjustments.
Are you timed correctly. Need to get RPM down to do that also!
Let us know what you need!
July, 7, 2011 AT 11:27 PM
Can I see if the power valve is bad if so where do I look. The bottom plate is on right and looks good no rotting.
July, 7, 2011 AT 11:30 PM
Would a new carb fix the problem if so what kind do recmend for this intake. I read about a holley carb would one work.
July, 7, 2011 AT 11:40 PM
The power valve is on the bottom of the front of the carb and under the 4 screw cover. They are a common failure as well.
Yes, holley does make a replacement carb but it will be hard to find. Not very popular today. I still would find someone to rebuild it for you.
July, 8, 2011 AT 2:59 AM
I took the power valve off it threads in right, I found two gaskets on it I have a gasket kit with breakdown it shows needing one could that be the problem. How much travel should be on this valve 1/8 th of an inch or so.
July, 8, 2011 AT 3:15 AM
Yep, the distance is good. The rubber bladder fails and leaks fuel into the system making it run rich. The small gasket is the one for the threads and the big one is the cover.
By the way, if it backfires it could rupture the bladder again. Make sure the timing is correct and the points are gapped at.018 and the dwell is 30-32 degrees.
July, 8, 2011 AT 3:30 AM
When are you joining up?
July, 8, 2011 AT 1:55 PM
Signed up last night. Just getting use to the site and what I have to do.
July, 8, 2011 AT 2:31 PM
I'm more of a old Jeep and old Ford feller
Sometimes I get in over my head, when I think I'm answering a "Generic Fix" on a newer rig.
Mind if I come get you, if I feel like I'm drowning!
I do not know a bunch about the computer rigs.I'm trying to learn. Here!
If you see, I'm tracking the wrong way, feel free to jump in on something I'm answering!
I see you know your stuff really well, and also look out for the feller on the other end too.I try to give any and all info that I can too. Right down to teaching 'em how to use their voltmeter etc.I call it "Holding their hand"
I recall when I was pretty stupid with my own fixes (still am with wife's newer stuff), hard to get "Real Help", usually it was 'Hearsay" and not "For Real Say" suggestions.
I've usually got the CJs covered, until computer crap was installed, if computer controlled emissions is the issue, I get lost.I can work around it, if they don't care or are not checked
You seem to be one who cares, and are willing to go the extra step.