Your reply is dead on!
I love reading about all your Jeeps. Man, you really do love them too.
Since this problem developed, I've been tinkering with the idea of getting a "new car." Anyway, I can't! Just love the Jeep too much and don't care if it kills me. I'd rather die fighting for something I believe in, that actually means something, than live a lie.
Anyway, I would really love to see photos of all the Jeeps. Looks like Willy is a special member of the family. I'd say, he's probably the "bravest" of the bunch, no? Is he a veteran?
OK, so I'm still jerking around with my "running hot" problem and here are some of the up to date details and answers to your questions;
1) In the morning, when I start the jeep, with the heat turned on, it gets up to operating temp. 190 and stays there forever. It never goes about norm temp, at idle.
2) The heater hoses do not seem full. However, this morning, Saturday, I plan to pull off the heater hoses one by one, with the engine running to see if theres a flow coming out of each hose.
3) When I start driving the Jeep, after about 5 minutes of local driving, at speeds no greater than 45 mph, the temp gauge reads slightly over 210. Then when I push the speed up to 55 for an extended period, say 5 to 10 minutes, the temp goes up to 220 to 230 and sometimes higher.
4) I have a pressure release radiator cap, it's brand new. When I stop, I open the red latch and of course, theres pressure which can be heard releasing into the overflow tank as I slowly lift the red latch on the cap. Basically, the radiator pressure is releasing into the overflow tank in the form of bubbles.
5) I have a 180 thermostat, also brand new in the vehicle, it's the fail-safe type and I find it hard to believe (as some have suggested) that it's wasn't good right out of the box.
6) I did several test since my first post, I did a cooling system pressure test and a block test. The reason I did these test is because I brought the Jeep into a mechanic who took the Jeep into the back of his shop and tried to diagnose my problem. He came out of the shop about 15 minutes later and said "you have a blown head gasket." "Idid a block test and it showed that you have exhaust gas in your coolant."
He didn't offer to show me the test or the results. And indicated that the cost to repair would be $ 1,250.00. So, being the untrsting SOB that I am, I decided to preform the same test myself and verify the results. Well, naturally, the tests were both negative. No exhaust gas in the coolant, I ran the test 5 spearate times, and the system is holding pressure.
7) The idea that you suggested that the water pump may be broken, sounds very viable. Exactly how do I check it. Drop the lower radiator hose from the water pump opening and try and turn the pump using a coat wire? If it free spins, then it's broken, right?
8) Serpentine belt is routed correctly. I'm certain of it. Have the diagram which is pasted on the Factory original radiator which I still have. However, I'll look again and again, because maybe just maybe something wacky is going on. Let me ask you this, assuming the Serpentine belt were on backwards, what would happe? Would the pump still pump? Would the flow to the heater hoses be reversed?
What would happen to the water pump assuming it could work backwards? Would it have a much shorted life span?
9) I have a new fan clutch which I would love to install, but I can't get the Fan Clutch Nut off. It needs a set of special wrenchs which my local auto parts store doesn't carry. Do you know of any way to remove the nut without using those wrenches?
My fan clutch doesn't free wheel and seems normal. But I'd still like to replace it.
Thanks,
Will wait to hear back,
Mike
Saturday, July 24th, 2010 AT 7:00 AM
