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Fuel Pump Problems-1
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MORE: Car fuel pump questions
Question: 1999 Ford F150 mileage: 120,500. When I turn the key to the "off"
position the fuel pump continues to run. If I switch tanks, the pump runs in the
other tank as well. I was unable to find a fuse although the fuse diagram said there
was a fuse in position 15. How do I get the fuel pumps to stop pumping?Answer:
It appears that the fuel pump relay is hanging up. Replace the fuel pump relay with
new to repair problem.
Question: 2004 Volvo XC90 mileage: 59,000. I had the fuel pump replaced
in December (there is only one in this model, inside the fuel tank). Last weekend
the car failed some miles from home; the local mechanic told me it was the fuel
pump and replaced it. I made it almost home and the car failed again. Had it towed
in to the guy who did the work in December, and he called to tell me it's the FUEL
PUMP!! I'm at my wit's end!! How can this be??
Answer: If the fuel pump you installed was not OEM original equipment
manufacture, that is the problem. The fuel pressure it takes to run you vehicle
depends on 60 psi fuel pressure constant. Inexpensive fuel pumps are that way for
a reason, there are not as good and cannot hold pressure. Replace fuel pump with
OEM fuel pump to repair problem.
Question: 2001 Chevrolet 1500 mileage: 110,000. My fuel pump is
not working. The fuse is ok. I put in a new relay. With connection at the
pump disconnected and ignition on, a test lamp on the middle prong glows but it
is very faint. Could it be a partially broken wire and is there another way
to test the pump before having to drop the gas tank?
Answer: The faint glow from the test light is your fuel gauge sender wire.
With the fuel pump connector disconnected you must get the full 12 volts or nothing.
Chances are you are getting the full twelve volts on the other wire at that connector,
your fuel pump is probably bad and need replacing.
Question: 2001 BMW 325i Touring mileage: 79,000. The car has done
this about 4 times now. The last time was this morning. It simply will not
start. It will crank and crank and crank, but never "fire". It makes
a "pooof" sound, but not a loud one. Letting it sit for a while sometimes
helps. It seems to happen when the temperature drops. What I've
done to start it (and don't ask me why) is to remove the gas cap, then keep cranking
it for about 1 minute or more with the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
Eventually it will start to fire and run. Then we go for weeks with it happening.
Any help appreciated.
Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should repair your problem.
Question: 2003 Volkswagen Beetle mileage: 72,000. Van would stall
when I first started in the morning or whenever it would sit for a while.
Last Friday I was stopped at stop sign and when I went to put my foot on gas it
stalled out and would not start. It would turn over but it sounded like it
was not getting gas to the engine. Could it be a fuel pump problem?
In addition, for the last few months, I can smell gasoline. Had a tune up
at VW dealership and they said I had a small fuel leak (I had that repaired a year
ago to the month) not to worry about it for now. What could be the problem:
fuel pump?
Answer: Yes, your problem sounds like the fuel pump. In addition,
replace your fuel filter to prolong the life of the new fuel pump.
Question: 2000 Dodge 1500 Ram Truck mileage: 120,225. Hi, I saw
a similar question in your FAQs but mine's a little different. I have
a Truck had it parked for a while. Then I gave it a tune up with new plugs,
wires, battery, and oil. I got it running then blew some walnuts out of the
exhaust, soon after it wouldn’t stay running now, it won’t turn over at all but
will crank. I thought the catalytic converter might be plugged so I took off
the one part behind the motor, but no good, I give up. HELP PLEASE!
Answer: Test for fuel pump pressure. The pump may have
failed or the fuel filter plugged.
Question: 1990 Dodge Spirit 2.5L 4-cyl turbo mileage: 72,000. My
in-tank electric fuel pump is getting increasingly noisy, so I'm thinking about
replacing it. However, I have heard stories that this is a job best left to
a professional garage because of the danger of draining, removing, and handling
a gas tank. I heard that empty gas tanks have exploded as a result of tiny
sparks generated by the friction of tools and components on and around the tank.
Is this true? How safe is it to tackle the job myself? Are there any
special safety precautions I should take?
Answer: Replacing the fuel pump in the gas tank can be dangerous.
It may be best to have the work done at a qualified auto service center.
Question: 1992 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3l mileage: 282,000. Occasionally,
the engine will just turn over but not start. Turns over at normal speed.
Usually, after several tries, it finally starts Once, it would not start at all.
Had it towed to dealer (late at night,) but next morning it started fine.
Dealer could not find anything wrong after checking it out for two days. Dealer
suggests replacing fuel pump. Due to high cost, I'd appreciate a second opinion.
Thanks.
Answer: That would be our answer also. It sounds like a fuel
pump problem. Replace fuel filter also.
Question: 1991 Ford/Mustang 2.3L mileage: 106,000. The
other day my car stopped dead in the middle of the road. The computer gives
me the 542 code. According to my repair manual, that means Fuel pump secondary
circuit failure: ECM to ground motor. Now, I have no idea what that means.
I'm trying to located the fuel pump relay switch to test it. The fuel pump, filter,
and spark plugs have all passed their test. However, the manual doesn't mention
the location of the relay. Where is the fuel pump relay located in a 91-2.3L
Mustang?
Answer: It is located under the dash by the glove box.
Question: 1982 Mercury Cougar 3.8 liter mileage: 75,000. Will not
start unless I pour gas down carburetor on cold start. If engine is warm car
will start ok till it cools back down (about 1/2 hour) then I need to prime carburetor
again. Fuel filter is ok, no leaks in lines or carburetor body or mounting spacer,
mounting bolts are all torqued per spec. Would aftermarket electric fuel pump
be worth trying?
Answer: Test fuel pump pressure and delivery volume. Check for proper
choke operation. Trying an aftermarket fuel pump may not fix your problem
if the stock pump is not faulty.
Question: 1994 Dodge Shadow 258 mileage: 84,011. Hello! I am in need of
some non-partial advice. When I first got my car (used in '98) the fuel pump (located
in the gas tank) was making noise. SUPPOSEDLY, the dealership replaced it, but within
about 4-6 months, it was making the same noise again. I've been told that the after-market
pump for this car is usually rather noisy...and I've checked out how much it would
be to have it replaced (around $400!), so I've been a bit reluctant to have it fixed.
(The mechanic did suggest that I should replace the pump.) Recently however, it's
had rather loud days...that's part of the problem, the volume varies...it sounds
like a high-pitched friction whine, and can be VERY annoying. So, I guess my question
is this: A) does the after-market pump make noise? and B) should I have it fixed?
Thanks for your help!!!
Answer: We have found after market pumps to be equal in quality, as noise
goes, to a factory pump. You did not mention if the fuel filter was also changed.
If the fuel filter is partially plugged, the pump must work harder to supply fuel
to the engine. This may cause extra noise from the pump. Also, have the fuel pressure
regulator checked. If the regulator is faulty, it will cause the pump to be noisy.
Question (follow-up): Hello again, Sorry to bother you one more time...I just
wanted to see what you said...I have changed the fuel filter and that didn't seem
to change the noise. It DID stop the car from stalling, which was good. I took the
car to a mechanic, and he ran a diagnostic. Would that have told him anything about
the regulator? If it's ok, and the filter is ok, what should I do about the pump?
Today it was rather quiet, so that false sense of security makes me wait another
day. I'm just afraid that one day I'll be stuck somewhere with a dead car.
Answer: A diagnostic check of your car may not find a fuel regulator that
is working but not quite "up to par." If you are concerned about the fuel pump failing
and leafing you stranded, it would probably be best to change it. Being stuck on
the side of the highway is not fun.
Question: I have a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GL with 167,000
miles. I was just informed that I need a new fuel pump. Could you give me an estimate
of the cost to replace the fuel pump? Thank you.
Answer: Your car has two fuel pumps. The pre-pump is located
in the fuel tank. That pump costs approximately $150.00 and labor about $75.00.
The main fuel pump costs approximately $260.00, labor about $50.00. If the fuel
filter has not been changed recently, it should be replaced at the same time. (Above
prices are based on the going rate in Southern California.)
Question: I am trying to find the location of
the fuel pump relay on an '87 Mercury Lynx Hatchback (1.9 l with central fuel injection
[CFI] and passive restrain system). I have called 4 local Mercury dealerships service
departments and have received comments that the relay is: back near the inertial
cut-out switch; behind the glove box; in the engine compartment on the left wheel
well under the master brake cylinder; in the engine compartment near the ignition
module. I have not been able to find it in any of these locations. Could you guide
me to this relay?? Please?? Thank you.
Answer: It is located under the left side of the dash above
the brake pedal. It is the green colored relay.
MORE: Car fuel pump questions
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Fuel Pump Problems-1
/ Fuel Pump Problems-2
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