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Repair Topics / Fuel Pump Problems-1 / Fuel Pump Problems-2
Vehicle Fuel Pumps, Fuel Pump Relay and Gas
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category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question:
1999 Ford F150 mileage: 120,500. When I turn
the key to the "off" position the fuel pump
continues to run. If I switch tanks, the
pump runs in the other tank as well. I was
unable to find a fuse although the fuse
diagram said there was a fuse in position
15. How do I get the fuel pumps to stop
pumping?
Answer: It appears that the
fuel pump relay is hanging up. Replace the
fuel pump relay with new to repair problem.
Question: 2004 Volvo XC90 mileage:
59,000. I had the fuel pump replaced in December (there
is only one in this model, inside the fuel tank). Last
weekend the car failed some miles from home; the local
mechanic told me it was the fuel pump and replaced it. I
made it almost home and the car failed again. Had it
towed in to the guy who did the work in December, and he
called to tell me it's the FUEL PUMP!! I'm at my wit's
end!! How can this be??
Answer:
If the fuel pump you installed was not OEM original
equipment manufacture, that is the problem. The fuel
pressure it takes to run you vehicle depends on 60 psi
fuel pressure constant. Inexpensive fuel pumps are that
way for a reason, there are not as good and cannot hold
pressure. Replace fuel pump with OEM fuel pump to repair
problem.
Question:
2001 Chevrolet 1500 mileage: 110,000. My fuel pump
is not working. The fuse is ok. I put in a new relay.
With connection at the pump disconnected and ignition
on, a test lamp on the middle prong glows but it is very
faint. Could it be a partially broken wire and is
there another way to test the pump before having to drop
the gas tank?
Answer:
The faint glow from the test light is your fuel gauge
sender wire. With the fuel pump connector disconnected
you must get the full 12 volts or nothing. Chances are
you are getting the full twelve volts on the other wire
at that connector, your fuel pump is probably bad and
need replacing.
Question:
2001 BMW 325i Touring
mileage: 79,000.
The car has done this about 4 times now. The last time
was this morning. It simply will not start.
It will crank and crank and crank, but never "fire".
It makes a "pooof" sound, but not a loud one.
Letting it sit for a while sometimes helps.
It seems to happen when the temperature drops.
What I've done to start it (and don't ask me why) is to
remove the gas cap, then keep cranking it for about 1
minute or more with the accelerator pedal all the way to
the floor. Eventually it will start to fire and
run. Then we go for weeks with it happening.
Any help appreciated.
Answer:
Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should repair your
problem.
Question:
2003 Volkswagen Beetle
mileage: 72,000. Van would stall when I first started
in the morning or whenever it would sit for a while.
Last Friday I was stopped at stop sign and when I went
to put my foot on gas it stalled out and would not
start. It would turn over but it sounded like it
was not getting gas to the engine. Could it be a
fuel pump problem? In addition, for the last few
months, I can smell gasoline. Had a tune up at VW
dealership and they said I had a small fuel leak (I had
that repaired a year ago to the month) not to worry
about it for now. What could be the problem: fuel
pump?
Answer:
Yes, your problem sounds like the fuel pump. In
addition, replace your fuel filter to prolong the life
of the new fuel pump.
Question:
2000 Dodge 1500 Ram Truck mileage: 120,225. Hi, I
saw a similar question in your FAQs but mine's a little
different. I have a Truck had it parked for
a while. Then I gave it a tune up with new plugs,
wires, battery, and oil. I got it running then
blew some walnuts out of the exhaust, soon after it
wouldn’t stay running now, it won’t turn over at all but
will crank. I thought the catalytic converter
might be plugged so I took off the one part behind the
motor, but no good, I give up. HELP PLEASE!
Answer:
Test for fuel pump pressure. The pump may have
failed or the fuel filter plugged.
Question:
1990 Dodge Spirit 2.5L 4-cyl turbo mileage: 72,000.
My in-tank electric fuel pump is getting increasingly
noisy, so I'm thinking about replacing it.
However, I have heard stories that this is a job best
left to a professional garage because of the danger of
draining, removing, and handling a gas tank. I
heard that empty gas tanks have exploded as a result of
tiny sparks generated by the friction of tools and
components on and around the tank. Is this true?
How safe is it to tackle the job myself? Are there
any special safety precautions I should take?
Answer:
Replacing the fuel pump in the gas tank can be
dangerous. It may be best to have the work done at
a qualified auto service center.
Question:
1992 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3l mileage: 282,000.
Occasionally, the engine will just turn over but not
start. Turns over at normal speed. Usually,
after several tries, it finally starts Once, it would
not start at all. Had it towed to dealer (late at
night,) but next morning it started fine. Dealer
could not find anything wrong after checking it out for
two days. Dealer suggests replacing fuel pump.
Due to high cost, I'd appreciate a second opinion.
Thanks.
Answer:
That would be our answer also. It sounds like a
fuel pump problem. Replace fuel filter also.
Question:
1991 Ford/Mustang 2.3L mileage: 106,000.
The other day my car stopped dead in the middle of the
road. The computer gives me the 542 code.
According to my repair manual, that means Fuel pump
secondary circuit failure: ECM to ground motor.
Now, I have no idea what that means. I'm trying to
located the fuel pump relay switch to test it. The fuel
pump, filter, and spark plugs have all passed their
test. However, the manual doesn't mention the
location of the relay. Where is the fuel pump
relay located in a 91-2.3L Mustang?
Answer:
It is located under the dash by the glove box.
Question:
1982 Mercury Cougar 3.8 liter mileage: 75,000. Will
not start unless I pour gas down carburetor on cold
start. If engine is warm car will start ok till it
cools back down (about 1/2 hour) then I need to prime
carburetor again. Fuel filter is ok, no leaks in lines
or carburetor body or mounting spacer, mounting bolts
are all torqued per spec. Would aftermarket
electric fuel pump be worth trying?
Answer: Test fuel pump pressure and
delivery volume. Check for proper choke operation.
Trying an aftermarket fuel pump may not fix your problem
if the stock pump is not faulty.
Question: 1994 Dodge Shadow
258 mileage: 84,011. Hello! I am in need of some
non-partial advice. When I first got my car (used in
'98) the fuel pump (located in the gas tank) was making
noise. SUPPOSEDLY, the dealership replaced it, but
within about 4-6 months, it was making the same noise
again. I've been told that the after-market pump for
this car is usually rather noisy...and I've checked out
how much it would be to have it replaced (around $400!),
so I've been a bit reluctant to have it fixed. (The
mechanic did suggest that I should replace the pump.)
Recently however, it's had rather loud days...that's
part of the problem, the volume varies...it sounds like
a high-pitched friction whine, and can be VERY annoying.
So, I guess my question is this: A) does the
after-market pump make noise? and B) should I have it
fixed? Thanks for your help!!!
Answer: We have found after
market pumps to be equal in quality, as noise goes, to a
factory pump. You did not mention if the fuel filter was
also changed. If the fuel filter is partially plugged,
the pump must work harder to supply fuel to the engine.
This may cause extra noise from the pump. Also, have the
fuel pressure regulator checked. If the regulator is
faulty, it will cause the pump to be noisy.
Question (follow-up): Hello again,
Sorry to bother you one more time...I just wanted to see
what you said...I have changed the fuel filter and that
didn't seem to change the noise. It DID stop the car
from stalling, which was good. I took the car to a
mechanic, and he ran a diagnostic. Would that have told
him anything about the regulator? If it's ok, and the
filter is ok, what should I do about the pump? Today it
was rather quiet, so that false sense of security makes
me wait another day. I'm just afraid that one day I'll
be stuck somewhere with a dead car.
Answer: A diagnostic check of your car may
not find a fuel regulator that is working but not quite
"up to par." If you are concerned about the fuel pump
failing and leafing you stranded, it would probably be
best to change it. Being stuck on the side of the
highway is not fun.
Question: I have
a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GL with 167,000 miles. I was
just informed that I need a new fuel pump. Could you
give me an estimate of the cost to replace the fuel
pump? Thank you.
Answer: Your car
has two fuel pumps. The pre-pump is located in the fuel
tank. That pump costs approximately $150.00 and labor
about $75.00. The main fuel pump costs approximately
$260.00, labor about $50.00. If the fuel filter has not
been changed recently, it should be replaced at the same
time. (Above prices are based on the going rate in
Southern California.)
Question: I am
trying to find the location of the fuel pump relay on an
'87 Mercury Lynx Hatchback (1.9 l with central fuel
injection [CFI] and passive restrain system). I have
called 4 local Mercury dealerships service departments
and have received comments that the relay is: back near
the inertial cut-out switch; behind the glove box; in
the engine compartment on the left wheel well under the
master brake cylinder; in the engine compartment near
the ignition module. I have not been able to find it in
any of these locations. Could you guide me to this
relay?? Please?? Thank you.
Answer: It is located under
the left side of the dash above the brake pedal. It is
the green colored relay. 
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