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Car Battery Questions and Answers
This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question:
2001 Chevy Impala mileage: 55,000. Hi...my
girlfriend's old Impala eats batteries! We
had one burst last month, thought it frozen.
Got a replacement, now this one is belching
sulfurous gasses and is warm to the touch
after the car has run for a little while.
Not cold enough to freeze - possible
charging system problem? Sometimes the
interior lights/radio lights go dim, then
bright again, also. The alternator is
putting out about 14.7 volts, the battery is
charged to about 13.5 volts, seems high.
I thought maybe the voltage regulator could
be bad, but don't know where it is on that
year vehicle! Otherwise a great low-mileage
nana car...any advice you guys could give on
where to start looking for the problem would
be appreciated!
Answer:
Check the ground wires to make sure they
are in place and making good contact,
especially the battery cable ground
connection to the motor. If this
checks out okay, you probably have a faulty
alternator. BTW you will need to replace the
battery again also. It cant take over
charging.
Question: 2002 Mercedes
Benz. miles: 78,000 My battery was dead this
morning and now it won't take a charge
anymore?
Answer: If your battery
will not take a charge it is worn out and
needs to be replaced.
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Question: 1998 Grand
Caravan SE. I replaced the battery in my
car. Everything was great. Then my wife
noticed that the manual recommended that I
put the "felt pads" under the cables. I
disconnected the new battery put the felt
pads back down and reconnected the battery.
Now no interior lights work, headlights
don't work, rpm/mileage display doesn't
work. Power doors, mirrors, brake lights, CD
player, AC all work. What do I need to
reset?
Answer: When you
replaced the battery, is there a chance that
you accidentally got the cables switched? If
so, you may have "cooked" a few things. If
not, check the fuseable links located close
to the battery.
Question: 1993 Ford
Escort LX 4 cylinder mileage: 115,000. I
have a 1993 Ford Escort LX wagon with
115,000 miles. It has always run like a
charm. The other day when I went to start
it, it wouldn't turn over, but everything
else worked. I keyed it a few more times and
it started right up. Today it did it again
and I decided to take a look at it. When I
popped the hood and keyed the engine, the
positive battery terminal began to smoke.
Any ideas?
Answer: Sounds like you
have a poor connection at the battery or the
battery itself is starting to fail.
Question: 1995
Oldsmobile Regency V6 3.8 litter mileage:
95,000. We recently replaced a dead battery
on our 1995 Oldsmobile Regency. After it was
replaced, the climate control is all out of
whack. The driver's side is blowing out very
cold air and the passenger side is blowing
out heat. Does the car's computer need to be
reset?
Answer: The computer
should not have to be reset. If you tried to
jump the battery from another car, and the
cables were attached backwards, the
electronics in the car will sustain damage,
which would explain the climate control
being out of "whack." In addition, if the
cables were attached backwards when the new
battery was installed, the same will occur.
Question: 1995 Nissan
Micra 1000 mileage: 36,000. I have two
questions: 1) For the last two years I have
found increasing deposits of white powder
around my battery terminal. What could be
causing this? 2) Twice in the last two
months when I have gone to start my car for
the first time it has crunched and not
started as if the starter motor is not
engaged properly. How can this problem be
solved? Could this problem be related to the
battery problem? Thank you
Answer: Remove the
battery cables and clean the battery. Get
yourself a carbonated soft drink, no do not
drink it, and pour it on the battery to
neutralize the white powdery substance.
Rinse the battery with water, clean the
battery terminals, and reconnect. This may
help your "crunching" starter motor
problems. If it does not, you will probably
have to replace the starter. In addition,
load test the battery.
Question: 1996 Mazda
Prot�g� 4 cyl mileage: 72,000. This is
embarrassing. When I went to jumpstart my
wife's car, I accidentally hooked up the
cable wrong. This resulted in cross
polarity, which melted the negative battery
terminal right off the "bad" battery. I've
had a new battery and battery terminal
installed and the car seems to be running
fine. However, the radio no longer works.
I've checked the radio fuse in the fuse box,
and it is fine. Is there anything else I can
check or did I fry my radio during the cross
polarity?
Answer: Don't be
embarrassed. You aren't the only one who has
made this mistake. It is possible that you
did "fry" it. However, it is more likely
that your radio has an anti-theft devise
built into it. When a battery is
disconnected, the dealer must reset the
radio.
Question: 1997 Honda
Accord TX. I am having trouble with our work
car and I'm not sure what the trouble is...
First off, I drive it about 40 miles one-way
to work. I noticed the dashboard lights got
real dim and the headlights were hardly lit.
After I got to work, I turned the lights and
everything else off and let it run by itself
for ten minutes. I then turned the car off
and tried to start it. Well, no start. I had
to have it jumped. This was just the
beginning. I put a new battery in it and
still had the problem. Then I replaced the
alternator and had new battery cables
installed as well. It still leaves me
sitting.... What else could it possibly be?
Answer: With the engine
running, check for 14 to 14� volts at the
battery. Check the fuseable links and check
the auto shutdown relay.
Question: Do those battery boosters
which plug into the cigarette lighter really
work? I saw one in a catalog that sells for
around $60. Another manufacturer makes a
throwaway charger good for one charge and
costs around $25. What do you think of
these? I'm the type who is afraid to connect
regular jumper cables to my battery
terminals.
Answer: We are not
impressed with battery booster products. If
you are concerned about your car not
starting, then have the battery load tested.
If marginal, replace the battery with a good
quality battery. You will be money ahead in
the long run.
Question:
1996 Ford Tempo mileage: 89,124.
Battery went dead this morning. Disconnected
alt. but still draining juice from
somewhere. When you touch the battery
terminals to the post, it sparks.
This just happened all the sudden.
Start car every day, and it has never had a
problem
Answer: Here is the
procedure we use to isolate a battery drain.
Remove negative battery cable from the
battery. Using a 12-volt test light,
hook one end to the negative battery post
the other end to the negative battery cable
you just disconnected. The test light
will glow or “light” if there is a drain.
If the “light or glow” is faint, that is
probably normal draw for the clock or
computer. If the “light or glow” is
bright, then there is a large drain.
That should be corrected. Now start
removing and replacing the fuses one by one
until the light goes out; that one will be
the circuit with the drain.
Question:
1997 Honda Prelude mileage: 108,000.
Battery light will come on sometimes when
the car is started, sometimes not for a
while down the road, sometimes not at all.
In addition, it sometimes flickers rapidly
(not blinking, looks like a fluorescent bulb
about to go out), then goes off for a while,
and comes back on. I think this may be
the voltage regulator. However, I do
not know if the regulator is external,
computer controlled, or integrated with the
alternator. All connections to
alternator/battery/fuse box/ignition
coil/distributor checked, battery replaced a
few days ago. I am not sure if the
alternator is failing, as I drove the car
for over 2 hrs with the light going on and
off (mostly on). Btw, this all started
after driving through an extremely rough
section of road that was being repaired.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Answer:
It sounds like you may be having trouble
with your charging system. Have your
battery load tested and check the alternator
output for voltage and amperage.
You may have a diode in the alternator
starting to leak.
Question:
1998 Ford Ranger 2.9L mileage: 109,000.
A few weeks ago, my charge light started
coming on intermittently, and my battery has
since died. The alternator is putting out
(the exact amps I do not know). I
found this out using some shade tree methods
(removing cables while engine is running,
feeling magnetic pull on back of
alternator). I have since replaced the
battery, and the charge light still comes
on, however it stops glowing at idle with
the headlamps on. It will appear again
upon acceleration. Any ideas?
Answer:
It sounds like you may be having trouble
with your charging system. Have your
battery load tested and check the alternator
output for voltage and amperage. It is not a
good idea to remove the battery cables when
the engine is running.

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