Troubleshoot wiring harness 68236867AD repair?

Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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Let's say it's not bad gas. What else would cause an engine to act like it's flooded? The last engine I really worked on was a Chevy 350 small Block. From a 1974 Camaro. If I knew more about this "throttle body" and fuel injection, I might be able to head in a better direction. Where can I have air leaks? Vacuum leaks I should say.
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Thursday, February 1st, 2024 AT 8:37 PM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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Did you guys give up on me or am I not hearing you correctly?
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Friday, February 2nd, 2024 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Due to a major house fire, I don't have internet at home. I drive 10 miles to town each day to help here, but I only do that a few hours per day. Today I'm here a lot earlier than normal to see if I can help. Most of the other experts are at their regular jobs so they won't respond until later.

When I need to post diagrams or drawings, those need to be copied and have arrows and callouts added, then they must be transferred into a format that can be uploaded. In some cases, especially for engine performance problems, that can include up to 12 to 24 separate diagrams, with each one taking 15 minutes or more to complete. I can do that at home, but it often takes until the early morning hours. That's why I don't show up here again until early evening the next day.

As are a few of our other experts, I'm a former instructor. As such, I'd be happy to help you understand how fuel injection systems work. I'm more familiar with Chrysler systems up to the late 1990s, but I have two 2014 models, including a Grand Caravan. I started following your question in hopes of learning the solution in case mine develops the same problem.

I have three areas of expertise, but engine performance is not one of them. That's why I'm quite happy to let Steve lead the way. He's a lot smarter than I look, especially in this area. As for how these systems work, for the most part, GM and Chrysler did everything the same except for a long time Chrysler didn't need a mass air flow sensor to make their engines run right. GM had a couple of models that also didn't use a mass air flow sensor, but almost all other brands and models do. Those measure the weight of the incoming air and provide the most important variable in the fuel metering calculations. If there's an air leak anywhere after that sensor, which sits in the intake tube, the air won't get included in the calculation and there won't be enough gas to go with it. In the earlier years, Chrysler only used the MAP sensor to calculate the load on the engine. It measured intake vacuum. That was their most important variable when calculating fuel needs. Many other brands used the MAP readings as a backup strategy when the computer detected a problem with the mass air flow sensor. Chrysler also takes a MAP reading before the engine starts to know barometric pressure.

The biggest changes in engine electronics showed up on 1996 models sold in the U.S. It incorporated a lot of new emissions systems and monitors. Those became more refined later, but now we're running into mechanical advancements that are new to many of us. The big one is variable camshaft timing. Technology is squeezing more power at different rpm ranges along with improved fuel economy, but with increased complexity and questionable reliability. This is why we're seeing so many hard-to-diagnose problems we never saw before. Along with that is a whole new series of diagnostic fault codes that we're unfamiliar with.

Most of us would not want to go back to the days of carburetors, especially once we understand fuel injection systems, but consider that among the huge list of Chrysler's innovations, they were the first one to use an Engine Computer in 1977. All they did was adjust ignition timing. Since the late '80s, all of the computers could detect certain defects and set diagnostic fault codes related to them. The biggest confusion with those codes, including those you found, is they never, ever say to replace a part. Way too many competent do-it-yourselfers see a fault code and instantly take it to mean the part referenced must be replaced. in fact, when a sensor or other part is listed in the code, it is actually the cause of that code about half of the time. It's just as likely to find a corroded connector terminal or cut wire. Those are a couple of things we have to check for before spending our customer's money on a new part.

There's a couple of thoughts to get you started. This really isn't the place to continue this part of the conversation as we try to stick to one topic per question. That's for a couple or reasons. First, others researching a similar "how-it-works" concern may not find your question because it's categorized under a different topic. They'll miss my wondrous wisdom here. Second, unlike how other forums work where anyone can show up and add a confusing comment, here it becomes a private conversation between you and just one or two other people. As such, none of the other experts are going to see your newest desire for knowledge or have a chance to reply. Often that may not get you the best help. By starting a new question just for system operation, more experts will see your request, and only those who feel they can do a good job will offer a reply. There are even some people who are smarter than me, although only I can make it easily understandable. (Eye roll appropriate here).

Keep in mind too that while we all have areas of expertise, models change every year and we will run into designs we're not familiar with. One of my specialties is Suspension and Alignment, but when helping a friend, I see new things all the time that I don't have any formal training on. My friend has a body / repair shop where he specializes in rebuilding smashed one and two-year-old Ram trucks, and other Chrysler models. I help him with electrical problems, but I get to see new suspension and brake systems all the time. I rely on following a lot of questions here to learn what kinds of problems these new designs are running into and how they get solved.

A good place to start when researching how something works is with this list of articles:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles

By necessity, these have to be short and inclusive of all appropriate brands, models, and years, so they're just a starting point that can start a conversation. We don't like to ask, but it's really helpful to know your experience level with the topic, and whether you know how to use certain test equipment and have access to it. Scanners and voltmeters are the two best examples. That helps us tailor our replies so we don't make them too confusing or overly simplified. I can type a reply to an electrical question a lot faster when you understand basic electrical theory already. When you don't, I can work with that, but it may be necessary to include some basic theory or generalizations to make it understandable. Most of us here are not satisfied with just spewing out a solution. We like to include details as to why something failed, how it's supposed to work, or some other details that may be relevant. That knowledge can be useful when working your way through a circuit, and it can prevent you from wasting time with unneeded tests.

To get back to the original problem, Steve will handle this better, but I can offer a couple of observations for you to mull over. If you're seeing too much unburned fuel leaving the tailpipe, there's two causes to start with. One is too much fuel is being sprayed by the injectors. The other is it's the right amount of fuel, but it's not being ignited. The injectors are pulsed open and closed by the Engine Computer. On most engines, fuel pressure is not monitored but it is carefully controlled by a fuel pressure regulator. That makes pressure a variable that is programmed into the software, so the computer knows it. Based on all the other sensor readings, the computer calculates how many milliseconds to hold the injectors open. When closed, an injector can leak, but that will be too slowly to show up while the engine is running. When the engine is stopped, that fuel pressure should hold for days or weeks. With a very small leak from an injector, pressure will bleed off within a few minutes. Most of the time the only complaint is a long crank time because pressure has to build back up before the engine will start. With what you're describing, the better suspect would be an injector control wire shorted to ground. That would hold the injector open constantly, and that would allow way too much fuel to enter one cylinder.

We also have to look at the ignition system. Most engines use a camshaft position sensor and a crankshaft position sensor. They develop voltage pulses. The actual voltage isn't important. The computer looks at when the pulse goes up or when it goes down to know precisely when to fire an injector and a spark plug. Some engines will start and run with one failed sensor. Some will run until stopped, then they won't restart. Others, especially older engines will stall if either one sensor fails. Some of these sensors have electronics built in, so all kinds of unusual problems can occur. We even used to hear stories of a cracked magnet inside a crankshaft position sensor that caused it to develop multiple and erratic signal pulses, and that resulted in the computer firing the injectors too many times. Spark timing would be wrong too.

I don't mean to jump in ahead of Steve, but some things he is likely to suggest include measuring fuel pressure, and unplugging injectors to see what affects the symptom. Ya gotta have fuel in the right amount, spark, compression, and all of those things at the right time for the engine to run. Various tests will show if one of those is not correct. If two are incorrect, specifically fuel and spark, at the same time, he will go in an entirely different direction with what they have in common. Most commonly that is the two sensors I mentioned.

Rest assured we will not abandon you. We've all had questions that have taken months before we arrived at a solution, but no one gave up. We can enlist the help of others too if that becomes necessary.
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Friday, February 2nd, 2024 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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As Doc says, most of us have day jobs. Technically I'm "retired" Sold my main shop and was only doing friends and family. But as a man once said, "Just when I thought I was out, they drag me back in!" So now I'm doing diagnostic work for one dealer who owns 18 different franchises and another one who owns 6. So much for retirement.

What did you fill the tank up with last? While the 3.6 is set up as a flex fuel in many applications there are some that are not. I was digging through the images from your scan tool looking for fuel trims and see if they were erased from clearing the codes and noticed the attached. If this is a flex fuel (usually has a tag on the rear gate if it is) and it's reading 0% ethanol but the PCM thinks you have an ethanol blend it will add extra fuel to compensate for the ethanol content, however if the fuel is actually non-ethanol or a 10% blend that extra fuel could be why it won't start and run. The PCM is actually flooding the cylinders. Try this quick test, hold the pedal on the floor, keep it there and try to start it, holding the pedal down fully will put it into clear flood mode. If it turns over a bit and then starts up, you have extra fuel to deal with. Then it becomes an issue of whether it is ignition timing that is off, and it just isn't firing at the correct time, or the PCM is adding extra fuel and drowning it out.
If you don't have service info both Mitchell and Alldata have DIY portals and you can get the same information on a single vehicle as the shops use. Both have sections that explain how the systems on your vehicle operate.
The issue here is that the cam codes and the erratic reference voltage point more to the wiring or an internal PCM issue over a real mechanical problem. The vehicle acting flooded could easily be because of a combination of timing being off from the data the cam and crank sensors are sending the PCM and the PCM adding extra fuel if it thinks you are using an ethanol blend.
Prior to these codes was it running good without an issue and then it threw the codes and doesn't run?
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Friday, February 2nd, 2024 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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Hi guys and thank you. I like to joke; I knew you were not abandoning me. I understand what busy is being that I've ran my own business for 18 years as an electrical contractor. It doesn't get much more involved than that, inside and outside. I'm known in the area as one of the best wiring troubleshooters in a commercial, industrial or residential setting. I should also say I know the theory of electricity, (When Voltage is applied, the Amperage will flow and the two of them will determine the amount of POWER the device is using) which Is my definition of ohm's law.
Also, relative experience for this repair would be, I've torn apart, repaired, rebuilt and built from new, PC (Windows) computers for 25 years. I don't run from "logic" challenges, I love them. This repair would be fun for me, if it was not for having to work on this outside, in the rain, in the snow, in the cold, of upstate New York. But I do that all the time now as an electrician.

As I've stated before. I have tinkered with cars all my driving life 40+ years. Especially back in the 80s when I owned a 74 Camaro and had winter rats that would constantly fall apart :-).
So, my experience with auto mechanics is limited, but then again not. I do know the basic operation of a two stroke and four stroke engine. Just learned the history of the obd2 port (emissions). And the development of the EPA because of it. And thanks to the tutelage of two very good auto mechanics, I'm starting to learn intricacies of today's "Solid state" or digital engines if you wish. For example, I never realized I've been pushing on an electronic gas pedal! Until now.

All right enough about me, let's fix my van. Thank you again for your help. I'm going to take a little time now to reread what you two said. There was some good information in What I read.

To answer your question Steve, "Prior to these codes was it running good without an issue and then it threw the codes and doesn't run?". It's been so long since it ran I've almost forgotten, just kidding.
No, I believe these codes were thrown once and cleared. Then it made it to my driveway, and I tried to start it and it was no longer starting. Note: It is very possible, this was the day of a snowfall here in upstate NY and my summer tires were not getting me up the hill very well. Causing me to abuse the **** (crap) out of the engine to get up the hill. Although it made it home and in my driveway I think that was the last time I drove it. The last time it ran was approximately a month ago now. Although previous to all this I did notice A small amount of unusual white smoke coming out of the exhaust, enough for me to have a little concern. Also, I did try to hold the pedal to the floor and start it. That seemed to have the best result to almost getting it to run but would quit in a couple of seconds if I held it there. It would continue trying to start if I let off and feathered the gas. But at no time did it start up and run. Also, I do not run 85% ethanol from my local gas station. But my scanner says I do. I've noticed this scanner digs very deep into a lot of areas that in question, Such as fuel injector status. I will try to learn more about this Innova 5610, I'm not thrilled with it.

There's some food for your thoughts. I'm going to do some reading thank you guys!
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Saturday, February 3rd, 2024 AT 1:02 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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I'm a fellow NY er, 90 miles east of you, used to have an office in Syracuse though (on E 2nd Street across from Liland). Scan tools can drive you crazy because you never know if they are lying or not. That is why I have a few of them. I'll get a reading that just seems odd and put a different tool on and it gives me what I was expecting. Plus because of trademarks and property laws they all give different definitions for some readings.
If holding the pedal down actually helped then it could be the PCM has an issue and is over fueling. That is fairly common on GMs, don't see it as much on Chryslers. On the GMs you do a fuel composition reset. On a Chrysler if I recall you disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and it will go stupid and forget the learned items. Then try starting it again. You may need to play with the throttle because it will lose the idle values as well.
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Saturday, February 3rd, 2024 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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Is there a choke on these throttle bodies? It certainly acts like an engine that has the choke on too much.
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Sunday, February 4th, 2024 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Nope, no choke. For starting the PCM looks at the coolant temp, ambient air temp and intake air temp and calculates how much extra fuel to add based on the temperature. Colder gets more fuel. Look through your tools live data, see if it shows those temperatures and if they agree. Without it running the fuel trim numbers won't mean much because they won't adjust until it warms up and goes into closed loop.
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Sunday, February 4th, 2024 AT 1:40 PM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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Thank you Steve, new development! I had it running! It ran on its own for at least 5 minutes, Blowing out white smoke like crazy. After 5 minutes or so, it started to act like it wanted to stall, until I stepped on the gas approximately 25%. It continued to run (with white smoke) only a little rougher. It ran this way until I turned the key off. It was long enough to clear the permanent codes! But five of the seven came back. I have a new report from the Innova 5610 showing some of this new data. I will include it now.
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Sunday, February 4th, 2024 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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You shall notice in this report the five wiring codes came back, plus other. This report recommends changing oxygen sensors, which I can easily. But I'll wait for your recommendation. I'm not at all against changing all plugs and Packs, it's cheap easy and needed. But I'm not sure about the "Recommended fixes" and changing the VVT oil control valve. I am so glad it ran on its own for a few minutes. White smoke and stunk like a Skunk.
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Sunday, February 4th, 2024 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Yeah, I wouldn't rush into those "fixes". Most of the time those are the same things the parts store is going to sell you for parts. Many times they don't actually track parts sold = actual repair. So, you have a random multiple misfire (P0300), they sell you a set of plugs, except they rarely fail in groups! Same with coils. However, it goes on the books that "we sold X number of sets of plugs to fix a P0300 code", so that is a possible fix that pops up.

Remember it hasn't run for a while and you have been trying to start it. Every attempt dumps fuel into the exhaust and that is going to take a bit to clean out. It's also likely the P0300 is from that and the cam codes. The cam sensor circuit codes returning that way though isn't a good sign for the ECM. You tested that they have ground, they have power, but the ECM still doesn't see them. Makes me think that there is corrosion or a failure inside it. Unfortunately, there isn't a great way to find that for a DIYer and they are not plug and play. However, you could check the powers and grounds to the PCM. If they all check out and the sensor wiring all checks out, but you still get errors, there isn't much left.
The TIPM is doubtful as a problem as the engine will run and the sensors are not powered from it directly.
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Sunday, February 4th, 2024 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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I buy everything online at 30 to 50% of the retail value. I don't mind buying the parts and putting them in. For example Six plugs and six coil packs for $80. I've only had the van for a year. I realized with 197,000 miles I was going to be putting some parts into it. Well I got a half torn apart now, it would be the time. But I'm going to wait for your advice. Maybe I should read what you sent first. :-)
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Sunday, February 4th, 2024 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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The crankshaft sensor wearing has not been inspected or tested. I found it very difficult to get to in my driveway. Tomorrow, I will jack it up higher and really check the crankshaft! I've been waiting on a pair of hands to do it but nobody shows up so.
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Sunday, February 4th, 2024 AT 4:13 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Just be sure where you are getting the parts. There have been a lot of fakes sold online. I buy from the local stores normally but I have accounts with them, so I get a better price than others. I'd show up to help, but the weekends are when I can work on my own stuff. Did an alternator on an F150, two front hubs and an axle on a Journey, put a bumper cover on a Mitsubishi and have a taillight with glue curing on it for a Hyundai in the bay waiting for tomorrow. That should clear out the family vehicles for another week.
Once you get the crank sensor tested and look at the other power feeds at least we might have a better idea if it's ECM related.
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Sunday, February 4th, 2024 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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I thought I sent an update for you guys. But I don't see it.
The wire to the crankshaft sensor looked good. I was able to follow it 90% of its way it was still covered in the thermal foil, to where it entered the harness.
I had it running yesterday all day, it even took me to a store or two. Although I never shut it off till I got home. It ran like crap. I felt like what a bad coil pack or two feels like, or should I say a cylinder or two misfire, and that's how it was running. But it would idle by itself.
So the newest codes I get after clearing the rest Again, is a P0206, P0300. The original permanent codes are still permanent figuring I haven't driven enough. I am going to change the 6 fuel injectors, at 197,000 miles on the original injectors warrants change. While the airbox is off, because I do not want to take it off again! I might be changing the packs and plugs on all 6 cylinders as well. It's a nice van Worth putting a couple of Bucks into. Wish me luck I'll let you know how I do. Also adding a report.
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Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 9:22 AM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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I also wanted to ask about some readings I got on the scanner. I'm sending pictures of those readings. I'm interested in the cylinder misfiring. And I'm wondering if I'm reading it correctly. Plus, an evap screen shot or two. Again, I'm not sure what I'm looking at.
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Friday, February 9th, 2024 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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Update: yesterday I spent the entire afternoon Find the crankshaft sensor out of the engine block again. This time to test voltage at the connector. Between terminals one and three I had five volts. Between two and three I had five volts, between one and two 0 volts! I also inspected every inch of the wire, Covered with aluminum foil heat shield, And seen no evidence of damage whatsoever From the sensor into another wiring harness near the battery. So right now I currently have P0206, P0339, Existing trouble codes. Could not get the engine to Start at all yesterday. I plan on changing the set of fuel injectors. Anything I should know? Is there an engine shut down circuit? If so why and when?
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Saturday, February 10th, 2024 AT 7:39 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Sounds like there is bias voltage at the sensor and it's likely okay. Running as long as it did shows that the sensors are working at least most of the time. Pin 3 to ground should be 5 volts (which it is pins 3-1) Pin 1 is ground pin 2 is a simple square wave signal that changes state as the engine rotates, and the sensor reads the reluctor. It basically turns on and off and tells the PCM where the crankshaft is by the pulse count from a trigger notch.
For the misfire readings it looks like 1&3 are the worst offenders and 2 might be clearing itself out by the counter trending down. Typical of an engine that hasn't run for a while but had several starting attempts, the plugs get fouled from the fuel.
It uses the Auto Shut Down relay for the engine shut down, but that relay is easy to test. Pick any coil positive feed, turn on the key, do you have voltage? Yes= ASD is okay.
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Sunday, February 11th, 2024 AT 7:41 AM
Tiny
TIMOTHY HUFF
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In the past month this truck has started and ran for a lengthy Amount of time. One time taking me to a couple of stores and making it home without shutting it off at any stop of course. Now it just refuses to start again. I'm getting to my wits end. And The end of my patience as well. I found for $200 a company that will program a used PCM for my van and ship it. I looked that my PCM, I meant physically looks fine the connectors look fine. The TIPM physically looks fine. Can the PCM and TIPM be tested in the vehicle 100% Absolutely positively? Even if I have to take it to a dealer? Getting a little discouraged. I know it's going to be something easy.
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Sunday, February 11th, 2024 AT 7:45 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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100% not really, but 90% is possible mainly because of some of the ways they are used. The problem is that doing the testing without an OE level scan tool and a scope is hard. In many was I wouldn't trust most dealers for this either. A couple folks I would suggest would be Eric at South Main Auto down in Avoca or Markhams up in Constableville. Believe they are sort of in your neck of the woods.
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Sunday, February 11th, 2024 AT 1:10 PM

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