Brake system

Tiny
MZKP
  • MEMBER
  • TOYOTA COROLLA
I have a 1996 toyota corolla, 117K miles, 2nd owner since 1998 1.8. I have replaced master cylinder, brake lines, pads, shoes, and bled brakes and brakes still go to the floor. Replaced new rotors in front, less than year but brakes still not working. Ned to know what the problem is. I have put so much money in this car, it is now in shop and have been there two days and they keep claiming they can't find problem, Running out of money and need help.
Tuesday, October 30th, 2007 AT 2:58 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Your telling me that a shop did all this? And now there are no brakes? Was it replaced because it was bad? Or Contaminated with oil? It sounds like an improperly bled system, Take the master off and bench bleed it, then put it on the car and open the bleeder screws on all 4 wheels, watch that the master does not run dry, and let all the wheels dripp fluid for a minute or two, then close the bleeders, and see what you've got. If the Master does not bench bleed properly, and I wouid use a plug kit on this one, return the master for a different one
Screw the brass plugs into the line holes, and slowly pump the bore about half a stroke at a time until the bore wont move! Then put it on the car!
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Tuesday, October 30th, 2007 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
They keep claiming they can't find problem,

Sounds stupid, do you have power brakes and ABS.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_booster_1.gif



On some ABS-equipped vehicles, you may also have to cycle or reposition the ABS solenoids or valves with a scan tool. Many also have additional bleeder screws on the ABS unit for bleeding the system.

Don't they know it has a problem-The pedal is going towards the floor when depressed. That's a problem for me.

The master cylinder is responsible for creating pressure. It has to leak somewhere to lose pressure-did they open up the back brakes and inspected the wheel cylinders. Also did you bleed the master cylinder before you attached the lines.

Look for the proportioning valve on the back bleed it out than bleed the rear wheel cylinders starting with the right rear then left rear.
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Tuesday, October 30th, 2007 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
MZKP
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks for the speedy reply. Actually a so-called retired auto repair technician did the first repairs and I think I know why I am having problems. I don't recall him bench-bledding the master cylinder, and I think I may need to have it power bled. I put the car in a shop because I was tired of the waiting and and constant changing of what the problem could be. However, It has been in the shop now for three days and now they are saying they can't find the problem. I think they are just doing repair jobs on the higher cost autos first, and pushing mine to the side. I just hate when people try to take advantage. I am going to call them and let them know about the master cylinder, but seeing that they are auto mechanics, one would think they would know that? Go figure. I even mentioned to them that the pin connection in the power booster seemed loose. Well see if this solves the problem, too bad none of you are located in Cleveland:) I could have taken my car to one of you and been done with this problem.
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Wednesday, October 31st, 2007 AT 10:29 AM

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