Mechanics

NO SPARK

Toyota Camry

1994 Toyota Camry 102K miles 4 cyl Auto Trans. Currently won't start, no spark.

Problem Started months ago by car just dying while on road at 35mph. Would restart after a while.

Think fuel we replaced filter. Seems to have plenty coming out while cranking.

Change cap and rotor, plugs and wires look OK. Still no spark. Check Ign coil got proper ohm reading across pos & neg also OK across pos and high volt terminal. Also swapped coil for new one, same results, no spark.

Pulled distributor and checked ohm reading of pick up coils per book both in spec. Also read coils while turning distributor shaft and when lobe passes coil ohm reading is interupted. Appears that is the way it should work, would be the sending signal I guess. Also checked air gap OK

Placed jumper across pins on data connector and got signal 12 flash on eng lite in car wich would be No NE Signal to ECM, yet coils read out OK and during distribuor turning we get interupted ohm reading?

Also got good voltage reading at ECM, can't remember which pins and also good voltage reading at Igniter.

Could distributor housing still be bad even with good pickup coil (NE & G) readings? Or ECM even though we are getting 12 error code?

This is a self repair as we cannot afford to just replace all parts as they are all expensive and dealer repair is more than car is worth.

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Stumped_Again
July 9, 2007.



Have the spark plugs been checked. For me, if all else fails, verify with your own two eyes if the spark is present.

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/40000106/Images/4/40610.jpg

This deviced allows you to visually see your engine supplying a spark.

As far as it not starting, does the engine crank? Write back and let's if we can nail this problem.

Tiny
Lord_Anarchy
Jul 15, 2007.
If the computer don't give the ignitor the Igt signal it will not fire, also if the ignitor don't give the computer the Igf signal which is the spark confirmation-the computer won't know combustion has taken place-we stop here and check the ignitor, ECM.

Do you have power at the positive terminal coil, when key is in On position?

Here's some more about Ne and G signal:

Rasmataz
Jul 15, 2007.
We have power at pos terminal of coil. We also have correct voltage at connector of igniter per manual.

Also have correct voltage at connector on ECM.

Not sure how to further check igniter other than buying new one and swaping out.

What further chacks can be done on ECM?

You stated " Here's some more about Ne and G signal?&Quot;

Tiny
Stumped_Again
Jul 17, 2007.
The Ne and G signals-the ECM has to see these signals in order for it to issue an igt signal to fire the ignitor and the ignitor in turn gives the ECM the igf signal that combustion has occur and the process repeats all over.

Ne/G1-2/Igt/Igf are all at the ECM try checking it all. Or swap the ignitor. BTW do you hear the injector clicking while engine being crank over.

Rasmataz
Jul 17, 2007.
1991 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, 2 L, 110,000
After I have driven the car for a while and turn off the engine the car will sometimes not start. Nothing happens. No starter turn. If I let the engine cool down or pour water on the Igniter the engine will turn over and start. Last night I came out of a restaurant and the car would not start. I had just replaced the igniter from one in the local junk yard. Luckily, I still had the old one still in the trunk. I swapped the igniters out and the car started right up! I went to Pep Boys to see what a new one costs. The counter tech said that the igniter is supposed to get hot while it is being used. I thought it was hot because of the high engine heat and hot summer weather. He said the igniter is costly ($50) and cannot be returned. He said I shoul make sure it is the bad part.

Have you guys heard of this problem before where the igniter would fail if it gets too hot? Any help would be great. Thanks. (Newbie to your forum.)

P.S. Battery tests good

Tiny
Numbersguy58
Aug 11, 2007.
Yeap! Been there before-the same goes in GM HEI Modules.

The ECM tells the ignitor to fire the coil at which time it surges to the spark plugs for combustion

Rasmataz
Aug 11, 2007.
So what do you recommend I do now? The " not starting when engine is too hot" happened again. I changed out the igniter but the engine still did not start - no click, no starter turn, nothing. Lights and radio worked fine though. While on the cell phone with AAA arranging a tow, I tried again (after about 20 minutes), engine started right up. When I got home I turned the engine off and then on again. The engine turned over like it was showroom new. I am so confused.

What else do I need to check? Is the starter itself bad? It is about 3 years old and was a rebuilt Bosch that I bought from Pep Boys.

Please help!

Yeap! Been there before-the same goes in GM HEI Modules.

The ECM tells the ignitor to fire the coil at which time it surges to the spark plugs for combustion[/quote: f120c2b90f]

Tiny
Numbersguy58
Sep 1, 2007.
Posted at Sat Sep 01, 2007 4: 44 am
By numbersguy58, New to the forum
Give Feedback | Votes: 0

So what do you recommend I do now? The " not starting when engine is too hot" happened again. I changed out the igniter but the engine still did not start - no click, no starter turn, nothing. Lights and radio worked fine though. While on the cell phone with AAA arranging a tow, I tried again (after about 20 minutes), engine started right up. When I got home I turned the engine off and then on again. The engine turned over like it was showroom new. I am so confused.

What else do I need to check? Is the starter itself bad? It is about 3 years old and was a rebuilt Bosch that I bought from Pep Boys.

Please help!

Start by checking all the fusible links in the power distribution box-could also be the ignition switch/NSS or clutch switch/starter relay.

You can get the starter to kick over if you short the battery terminal and solenoid at the starter-if it kicks over than backtrack to the starter relay/NSS/ignition switch.

Rasmataz
Sep 1, 2007.
It's the ignitor especially if this vehicle is equipped with a tachometer and the tach starts going hay wire when the problem occurs. $50 is nothing to repair cars these days. If it proves to be the problem you will save that money in one tow.

Good luck!

Tiny
Lovescars
Sep 6, 2007.