1994 Toyota Camry overheating

Hi paulmoats46, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

Brand new water pump,radiator and thermostat working okay-try bleeding the cooling system don't work get it block and pressure tested to rule out a blown headgasket, cracked head or block and intake manifold leak

that answer doesn`t help me.i checked compression,155 on 3 cylinders.170 on 1

Your engine compression is good. Block testing is a liquid type tester that changes color if there's combustion gases in the cooling system. Pressure test is applying air pressure in the cooling system

Do this open up the radiator cap and start engine up if coolant spewing out -could mean your headgasket is blown-to verify again use a block tester.

Double check the water pump though its new and also the thermostat

ok thanks, that answer helped a little. how do you check a water pump?i took the thermostat out ,ran water throught it both ways,made sure it was full,started it up.no water came out top hose.

Water pump checking-remove rad cap,start the car up let it run for a few mins, coolant should be swirling around now pinch off the top hose for a few secs then let go the coolant flow should increase if the water pump is working

i did it like that both ways,with thermostat in .with thermostat out no flow either way

You need to open it back up and investigate the water pump

i looked real close at the impeller,housing,water inlet thermostat,hole going into head .there`s nothing visably wrong that i can tell

Try putting the old water pump back on and see if it pushes coolant towards the radiator-

Put the old water pump back on and see what happens

i had to turn old water pump in i did all these checks before i changed the pump.just supposing the water was going toward the raidator what would that tell you

Its doing its job, you should see the coolant moving thru inside if its good if not could be a blockage in the head or block

you need to go back and read my first post,i`ve told you i ran water through the head and water pump both ways, so there`s no blockage. i just drove the car about 5 miles and it over heated,when it spits out about a quart of water.the temp.sensor won`t tell the fans to come on.but when you fill it back up with water it works fine until it over heats and the water gets low. what do you think about the possibility of a small crack in the head some where.thank you for your help.

1st respond:

try bleeding the cooling system don't work get it block and pressure tested to rule out a blown headgasket, cracked head or block and intake manifold leak.

Could be a leak thru the headgasket, cracked head or block or an intake leak-get it block and pressure tested to find out more

ok thank you for the information,i`am trying to find a tester with a small radiator cap to pressure test it.theres no bleeder fitting in the system.i just don`t understand why the water pump won`t move any water.can you tell me why?

i put 18 pounds of pressure in the cooling system and it held it over night does that tell you anything?

No pressure loss- use a block tester, this is a kit that performs a chemical test on the vapors in the radiator. Blue tester fluid is added to the plastic container on the tester. If the fluid turns yellow during the test, then exhaust gasses are present in the radiator.

The most common causes for exhaust gasses to be present in the radiator is a blown head gasket. Replacing a bad head gasket requires a major disassembly of the engine and can be quite expensive. Other causes include a cracked head or a cracked block, both are even more undesirable than having to replace a head gasket.

that block tester cost 70 dollars and i don`t think it will pinpoint cracked head,cracked block or blown head gasket so i would have to pull the head,have it checked,repaired or replace it,buy gaskets for 120 dollars put it back togather and see if the water pump will move any water.or if theres nothing wrong with the head and i can`t see anything visably wrong with the block,do i assume it was a headgasket and put it back togather?and hope for the best.i thank you for your help,i would still like to have your theory on why the water pump won`t pump any water

The idea of the block tester is find out if exhaust gases is making it into the cooling system thru a blown headgasket, cracked or block. It will change in color if there's a leakage.

To answer your Q on the water pump. If the thermostat is opening, and the radiator is not clogged-up and the water pump is not pumping coolant through out the engine. Did you position the jiggle valve correctly on the thermostat.And also the gaskets and oil rings are all in place and the water bypass pipe no clogged-Best check again the water pump in and out I know what you're going thru I've been there before with the oil pump and the water pump and I don't like it. Good Luck

that test is still not going to pin point the problem i would still have to do what i said. this thermostat doesn`t have a giggle pin and besides that, i took the thermostat out ,it does the same either way,the water pump will not pump

ok you boys, you said you would stick with me till the end,this is the end .gladly return my 2.00

You've said the head and block is cleared and there's no coolant moving thru the engine the water pump function is to pump coolant thru out the engine-the coolant will not circulate on its. Now request for your $2.00 thru normal procedures and good luck-Remember I have a life too.

We are sorry we could not help you. Your donation has been refunded.

thank you for refund

You are welcome. We appreciate our members and stand behind our promise that if we can't help solve your problem we will return any donation. Our team of technicians really do try hard to help everyone we can.

regardles of the price of the block test, that is where this is headed.Most times when a cooling system cant keep up when driving , itis because the cooling system is being pumped full of exhaust, thus it displaces the coolant and causes the overheating/overflow of coolant.This can even cause the water pump to cavitate, which impedes the flow of coolant and causes the t-stat to open and close since it cant react to air, only fluid

thank you,i don`t want to argue or make you mad but i understand cavitation very well i worked on very large water pumps in the inviromental deparment of a automotive foundry for 32 years.can you tell me how the test will pin point the problem or am i going to have to tear it down,like i said? PLEASE READ ALL MY POST.I FELL LIKE I`AM BEATING A DEAD HORSE.it looks to me like i will just be throwing 70 dollars away for nothing

You are correct in that the test isnt 100%, but then again nothing really is.....LOL I understand the kit is pricey, call around to see what a shop would charge to do it, sometimes it is less than the kit.A 4 or 5 gas analyzer will do the same thing, and a little more accuratly, but most places wont use their emissions equipment for doing that.I have seen many head gaskets do exactly what you describe,. Since you have replaced evey part of the cooling system, it honestly looks like the head gasket is the direction you are headed in.Toyotas dont tend to crack heads either, not to say it isnt possible, but I cant recall seeing it

it would not matter if that test cost 15 cents. its useless. you have just told me more in your last post than all the others togather

I dont usually deem diagnostic tests useless, especially when the cost is considered for the repair, it is best to be sure of the diagnosis.

could you tell me what the benifits of that test would be

To determine if there is indeed exhaust present in the cooling system.I understand your point of having replaced everything else and that all things point to a bad head gasket, but when you are in a shop environment, you need to be able to tell the customer that you did all diagnostics and this is whats wrong.Honestly in a shop, all other parts wouldnt have been replaced first, so the test wouldnt seem like such a waste of time/money

ok that was a great explanation just one last question if i brought the car to you explained everything i did and told you i wanted you to block test it and you find nothing wrong what would be your next move

would still suggest a tear down based on what is happening and the fact that the test isnt 100% as I told you before.

would still suggest a tear down based on what is happening and the fact that the test isnt 100% as I told you before.) no where in this post have you suggested a tear down. that has been my whole point in this discussion,that the test would not pin point the problem and you would have to tear it down and look her over.thank you for your time, wisdom,and patiance

You're welcome, but I said that the test isnt 100%, but by not testing yours we will never know if it would have shown positive.There are always possibilities for everything

well there`s a possibility i will win the lottery and if i do you guys can expect a donation if you will tell me what you will do if the test is positive and what you will do if it`s negative

Im done with the point/counterpoint discussion. Have a nice day and thanks for using 2Carpros.com

aw, shucks i bet you tell all your cusumers that.btw you didn`t tell me good luck in the lottery. don`t you want me to win?

best of luck in the lottery and all other ventures, and no, I dont tell any of my customers that.Have a nice day