Engine Stalls

sounds wierd but ill take a shot..... sounds to me like the coolant temperature sensor cuz what i was always told was the cts adjusts the fuel and everything in certain temperatures.... but thats just what i would check.....

Thanks. I'm buying one of those this evening. If anyone else has any other ideas it would be greatly appreciated as this is very frustrating. Everyday we try something and it turns out to not be the solution.

The neutral safety switch acts up sometimes too.

The NSS is gonna be a starting issue, Dies out could be an ignition switch failing,coil, and ignitor.

We replaced coil & ignitor already, no luck, not sure about the ignition switch & I'm getting an NSS this weekend if the temp sensor that I bought last night doesn't do the trick.

Check the fuel pressure to rule out the pump-CTS and ignition switch good place to start

We found a crack in the aluminum housing (waterneck) where the ECT sits and the coolant return hose attaches... Could this cause our problem?

[quote:be1078ea34="chrissea"]We found a crack in the aluminum housing (waterneck) where the ECT sits and the coolant return hose attaches... Could this cause our problem?[/quote:be1078ea34]

The ECT/TPS/MAF sensor when defective will cause stalling-check the ECT resistances cold and hot. Try fixing it then retry and comeback we still got a long way to go to find this critter.

Have you ever change the oxygen sensor?

The coolant sensor monitors engine temperature. The PCM uses this information to regulate a wide variety of ignition, fuel and emission control functions. When the engine is cold, for example, the fuel mixture needs to be richer to improve drivability. Once the engine reaches a certain temperature, the PCM starts using the signal from the O2 sensor to vary the fuel mixture. This is called "closed loop" operation, and it is necessary to keep emissions to a minimum.

Also might want to bypass the ignition switch to rule it out by taking a wire from the battery positive post to the coil positive terminal this will power the ignition without the help of the igniton switch. The only time you need the switch is to engage the starter that's all. And see what happens. This don't work check the other sensors.

Good LUck

Got a distributor at the junk yard and it's all better! It's run for 55 minutes so far and it's looking good!
Thanks so much for all the help! I'm sure I'll be back again... knock on wood.
Thank you!

I have a 1988 toyota camry...the car ran great for 2 weeks then started stalling while driving. i replaced the distributor, checked to make sure there was no junk in the gas tank, replaced the fuel filter and it still happens. the car will idol but if i give it gas, it chokes and dies. it wont restart for a while then it will start back up and run like nothing is wrong for a few miles and do it all over again. i checked the exhaust to see if the cadilidic converter is choking it and the exhaust is fine. i and my mechanic are stumped..
please help.
thank you

Hi there

Check for any fault codes, (codes can be set without the check light coming on) check fuel flow and pressure, check ignition on oscilloscope for faulty ignition pattens. check ignition timing and valve timing, vacuum leaks and valve clearances.

Mark (mhpautos)

Engine Performance problem
1986 Toyota Camry Two Wheel Drive Automatic 133646 miles

My Camry is still hanging in there bless it's heart. However, whenever I come to a stop such as a red light, it behaves as thought it's about to shut off. It shudders, sounds like it's cutting off or maybe losing power, then when I give it some gas where off again. This can happen whether I've just started driving or have been driving for a while. I've taken it too the dealership 3 times now and they can't tell me what's wrong. I've changed the oil, did a tune-up.

Also, the spring has popped of my fuel tank door, so now I have to wait at gas stations like a stalker for someone to open it for me while I hold the release lever inside the card :-(. Where could I get this spring??

Thank you in advance for any advice!!!
Best Regards,
Meejah

Get the idle air control valve, throttle position and mass airflow sensors to include the PCV and EGR valves checked out-also check the fuel pressure

[quote:94308214f9="rasmataz"]Get the idle air control valve, throttle position and mass airflow sensors to include the PCV and EGR valves checked out-also check the fuel pressure[/quote:94308214f9]

Just to clarify your message (the word include is throwing me off). You want me to get all of the following things checked out:

Idle air control Valve
Throttle position
PCV valve
EGR valve
Fuel pressure
???

The items I've mentioned earlier will affect your idle and cause the engine to stall or run rough

Lets start with the airflow meter and the throttle position sensor then get back with me for more assistance

BTW is this a Carb or an EFI system?

Hey folk, my mother owns the vehicle. She experienced the engine cutting out or "fanning"... you had to vigorously pump the accelerator pedal to eventually clear it and regain power (but not to the original or full performance) in order to nurse it home again. . Starts up and runs perfectly but seems to fall back into cutting out after it warms up. It will idol normally, but when you attempt to give it fuel (after driving a short time), it seems as if it is flooding out. We put new plugs, air filter and distributer cap into it. I am short of putting a new fuel filter into it, but was told that if that were the problem, the fanning would be more constant rather than it happening after the engine warming up. I was also told that it might have something to do with the automatic choke not filtering down after the warm up, but I cannot find reference to the choke in the car manual purchased... any ideals to what it might be, I would greatly appreciate your impute!
Clueless and broke in Seattle…gary

Hi Gary,

Thank you for the donation.

Did you check the spark plug conditions? Are they burning rich ( sooty) or lean ( whitish )?

Is the Check Engine light indicating?

I would suggest getting the MAF cleaned and retesting.

1986 Toyota Camry 150000 miles

My '86 Toyota Camry doesn't start when it's wet(after it rains, morning dew...) and sometimes when it's very hot out. It also stalls out at random times after running just fine. The check oil light comes on, but when I check the oil, it is fine. What could be wrong? How can I check and/or fix it?

Duplicate the problem and do below to determine if its fuel or spark that's causing it.

Disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor /distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM,Ignitor cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Other Category problem
1987 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 130k miles
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it will start, sometimes hard, when it is cool
it idles ok
I live in ND and it's cold right now. it seems like when I run the heater to warm the interior of the car it will die.
It dies when I am driving. everything but the dash lights just stops
it won't start again for a while.
any ideas

Lets start by having the coolant temperature sensor check-this done check out the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. these 3 checks out -have the fuel system pressure checked and comeback with the results so we can go on to the next phase

ok my 89 camry sputters and bogs down to the point of wanting to stall when it gets up to temp and it is hot outside. its not the catalytic converter i checked that . i replaced the oxygen sensor.read a forum where someone said theres did about the same and someone said check the mass airflow sensor. but when i unplugged mine the engine died. any thoughts on this or help would be greatly appreciated.

Inspect and test all the following listed below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard

My 1989 Toyota Camry LE, V6, AT, starts and idles ok, but when I put it in gear, it stalls. What might cause this? I also smell gas inside the car.

Check for fuel leaks at the injectors. Also, check all fuel lines from the tank to the engine. As far as the engine stalling, have the TCC checked. It sounds like the transmission ins't disengaging.

The car will start run for maybe 30 seconds then dies like it is running out of gas. it is like it is running that you feel that is in the fuel line out. Then it dies but I can start it right back up and it does the same thing

Try checking the fuel pressure for a start: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator, then let me know so we can continue to troubleshoot

try a security system reset they shut off fuel and or ignition if it engages. that causes issues like yours. see link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Also check and test the TPS and MAF sensor

I charged battery and ran rough. Then dies get a jump starts. says won't charge and I replaced both battery and alternator it will run rough then dies when pull cables please help I'm so thankful

Do you mean it dies when you remove the jumper cables or the battery cables? Do not remove a battery cable while the engine is running or I'll have to come over there and smack you! I already yelled at one person today for doing that.

Leave the jumper cables connected but the assisting car engine turned off. With your engine running, measure the battery voltage with a digital voltmeter. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is, either your battery is bad or it simply needs time to charge up. A totally dead battery needs about 15 minutes on a charger before it STARTS to take a charge. The acid needs time to become conductive.

Also measure your battery's voltage with the engine off and the jumper cables removed. If it's good and fully-charged, it will measure 12.6 volts. 12.2 volts means it's good but discharged. Charge it at a slow rate for an hour, then remeasure it. If you find it close to 11 volts or less, it has a bad cell and must be replaced.

Be aware a bad battery can cause a voltage regulator to stop working, so you might see a good charging voltage of 13.75 to 14.75 volts while the jumper cables are connected, but then the charging system stops working when the jumper cables are removed.

Next, measure the voltage on the large output terminal on the back of the generator. You must find the same as battery voltage there all the time. If you find it's much higher while the engine is running, as in 15.0 to 18.0 volts, AND it's 0.0 volts with the engine off, look for a blown fuse. Without digging up a wiring diagram, I can only suggest that some cars used fusible link wires and by that time many had switched to using a large fuse bolted into the under-hood fuse box. If that fuse is blown, the likely suspect is the old generator had multiple shorted diodes so it appeared as a dead short.

If you haven't found the cause of the problem by this time, I'll find a wiring diagram and we'll figure out where to look next.