Transmission not shifting properly, codes P1409, P0171 and P0174

Tiny
SARDANTIC_DECAY
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 252,489 MILES
So my vehicle listed above has been running great, especially for its high mileage. I've done a few long-distance trips in the last year (ranging from going from or to AZ or visiting family an hour or so away and back just last week) and haven't had an issue. Only thing I've had to replace is the radiator when it blew which of course threw a code the shop didn't have the right reader to clear, so I'm not sure which it is/was.

The issue I'm facing is after noticing the truck had an issue shifting a bit (just revving more than it should before shifting), I checked the trans fluid and sure enough it needed changed as it was more like muddy water colored then a ruby red. I drained it and changed it with new fluid, and it seemed to solve the problem for a few miles before suddenly sitting at a red light it wouldn't shift at all; just rev/red-line and occasionally just barely catch a gear so I could move off the road and into a parking lot. After letting it sit for a bit so I could at least try and get it home, it basically repeated this process with a great deal of struggle. From my (limited) experience if a tranny is going out, it's pretty obvious and gives some clear signs, not just going from perfectly fine to shot.

I checked to see what codes it was throwing and have p1409, p0171, and p0174. Not sure which of these (if any) was from the radiator issue, but these codes don't seem to do directly with my transmission itself so hopefully that's technically a good thing?

I know 1409 is an issue with the solenoid circuit (which is vaguely familiar though I'm used to working on much older cars such as my 1982 T-bird where everything has plenty of room to work with and dealing with sensors and computer crap isn't nearly as prevalent), and 0171/0174 is the PCM sees the air/fuel mixture is running too lean (too much air, not enough fuel) if I remember correctly?

I'm at a total loss and of course this happened on my way to work so I'm taking a hit to my wallet as it is and taking it to a shop to diagnose/mess with is a bit out of budget if I can help it. Sorry for the wall of text, just trying to be as thorough as possible with what I've got and reading through this web site for related issues this seems like thee place to get some reliable help.
Wednesday, November 10th, 2021 AT 4:13 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,230 POSTS
Hi,

The codes are likely all related and are caused by the P1409. That code indicates an EGR vacuum regulator issue. If there is a leak, that will cause a lean mixture. Inspect the connections at the solenoid first (see the last pic) and if everything appears good, pics 1-4 are the diagnostics specific to the code.

In the vacuum regulator solenoid, there will be an electrical connection. Make sure it is tight, clean, and undamaged.

Now, there is one other suspect when you have both lean codes. The DPFE (differential pressure feedback electronic. The too is an integral part of the EGR system. If you look at pic 7, I highlighted the DPFE sensor. It is located on the rear of the engine and mounted to the EGR tube.

This sensor is attached with two rubber hoses to the tube that routes exhaust gas to the EGR valve. Because corrosion can develop inside the sensor, it can reduce its sensitivity to flow, causing a false signal to the PCM. As a result, the PCM keeps the EGR open too long causing the lean mixtures. (I hope that makes sense) LOL In my mind, I suspect the DPFE is the issue, but check it.

So, do the same at the DPFE. Check vacuum hoses for damage and the electrical connection and wiring as well.

Now, the transmission is a separate issue. Is the new fluid still clean? When you serviced it, was there a lot of clutch material or any metal shavings noticed?

Let me know what you find or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Thursday, November 11th, 2021 AT 6:14 PM
Tiny
SARDANTIC_DECAY
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Apologies for the delay, but the response is much appreciated! Our schedule is pretty busy, so it took me a bit to be able to check some things out. For the transmission specifically, I did check the liquid and it certainly isn't the pretty ruby red the new stuff was, but it is at least a murky red. I may need it flushed at some point soon but it's an improvement. As for the cap when I removed it, yes there was easily a few cm of black sludge I cleaned off it, though no metal fragments/shavings.

After a little research and troubleshooting, I also tried a little 'experiment' in which I essentially shifted and drove the truck in 2nd to see if the issues continued, and was able to rev up and back into drive if I needed to go faster than about 30-ish MPH (rev in 2nd up to about 4,000, shift, let it drop to 1,200, then hit the gas to catch 4th gear) and it seemed to be doing okay; no stalls or slips unless I didn't shift back to 2 once my speed dropped below 30-35 which leads me to believe it's specifically the solenoid (is the one that shifts from 2nd to 3rd)? So, if that sounds like an accurate test/conclusion, where are the said solenoids in this model exactly and how do I get to them/what would I need? I'm thinking it's in the transmission pan but can't say I know where that is or what's in my way and my means of jacking the car up are limited to a couple manual jacks (vs access to a car lift, for instance).
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Tuesday, November 23rd, 2021 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,230 POSTS
Hi,

The shift solenoids are located under the valve body in the transmission. There are three, solenoids A, B, and C. However, I have to ask a question.

When you place the vehicle in 2nd, you are locked in 2nd gear. Basically, first isn't used and it shouldn't shift out of 2nd. Is that what is happening?

Joe
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Tuesday, November 23rd, 2021 AT 6:15 PM
Tiny
SARDANTIC_DECAY
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That sounds like it'll be fun to get to. Just have to figure out which one it is.
So, the issue I had was running fine for a few miles, then when I was sitting at a red-light it just wouldn't catch first at all. Getting it home was a crawling nightmare of occasionally catching to get a little speed then slipping out again. Though, as I mentioned driving in 2 (my gear options are RPND21 if I remember correctly) was fine and basically making an automatic transmission into a manual.
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Tuesday, November 23rd, 2021 AT 10:48 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,230 POSTS
Hi,

This is a theory at this point. The idea that it seemed okay when driven in second is likely because first gear isn't used in that selection.

Let me know what I can do to help you. Also, feel free to ask questions if you have them.

Joe
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Wednesday, November 24th, 2021 AT 8:48 PM
Tiny
SARDANTIC_DECAY
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Hey again,

I was looking to tackle this soon so if there's any videos or diagrams for where and how this attempted fix will go, it would be terribly appreciated. Also, is there any way to know which solenoid is which, or which one is the bad one? Since it isn't throwing codes specific to it, I doubt I'll be able to get it to an AutoZone or something to have them be able to tell me unless there's other equipment that can check that better than my mini reader.
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Friday, November 26th, 2021 AT 2:10 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,230 POSTS
Hi,

I attached the directions below. I included the procedure on how to remove the valve body and reinstall it. This will need to be done to access the shift solenoids.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Friday, November 26th, 2021 AT 10:11 PM

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