Power steering and brake problem

Tiny
BSDBRAD
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 DODGE RAM
  • 5.8L
  • TURBO
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Replaced steering gear box and power steering pump put everything back together lines etc, to hydro-boost and gearbox and pump. Bled out air side to side in air. Went for test drive steering is fine until you hit brakes then it is like you have no power steering, let off brakes then power steering is back. Acts like it gets locked. What is it I am not seeing or doing? Thanks in advance.
Sunday, May 27th, 2018 AT 7:25 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon.

This sounds like a hydroboost issue.

Below is some testing for the unit

Roy

Booster-hydro-boost brake
Diagnosis and testing:

Hydraulic Booster
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a booster problem, first verify the power steering pump is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
Check the power steering fluid level.
Check the brake fluid level.
Check all power steering hoses and lines for leaks and restrictions.
Check power steering pump pressure.

NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur when the brake pedal is used in a manner not associated with normal braking or driving habits.

HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. Or above. The noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal pressure and an increase of system operating temperature.

CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal brake pedal pressure is applied 50 - 100 lbs.

BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the brake pedal using 40 lbs. Of force and start the engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push back against your foot. This indicates the booster is operating properly.

ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
1. Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there should be at least two power assisted brake application with the engine off. If the system does not retain a charge the booster must be replaced.
2. With the engine off depress the brake pedal several times to discharge the accumulator. Grasp the accumulator and see if it wobbles or turns. If it does the accumulator has lost a gas charge and the booster must be replaced.

SEAL LEAKAGE
If the booster leaks from any of the seals the booster assembly must be replaced.

ImageZoom/Print

INPUT ROD SEAL (3): Fluid leakage from rear end of the booster.
PISTON SEAL (6): Fluid leakage from vent at front of booster.
HOUSING SEAL (4): Fluid leakage between housing and housing cover.
SPOOL VALVE SEAL (7): Fluid leakage near spool plug.
RETURN PORT FITTING SEAL (8): Fluid leakage from port fitting.

ImageZoom/Print

HYDRAULIC BOOSTER DIAGNOSIS CHART
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Sunday, May 27th, 2018 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
BSDBRAD
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Thank you for the advice and I will be checking things out later today. And will give a follow up on findings soon. Thanks Again.
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Sunday, May 27th, 2018 AT 9:39 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You are welcome.

Keep us updated.

Roy
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Sunday, May 27th, 2018 AT 9:40 AM

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