Hello -
Thanks for the update.....
Was the car running before you did the overhaul?
Well - the operation doesn't say anything about a steady light. I have attached that below.
Description
The PASSLOCK(R) system is designed to prevent vehicle theft by disabling the engine unless a mechanical key is used to correctly engage the PASSLOCK(R) lock cylinder. System components include ignition switch, Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC), PASSLOCK(R) lock cylinder, and Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Operation
When the mechanical key turns the PASSLOCK(R) lock cylinder, a Resistance Code (R-Code) created by a rotating magnet turning past a stationary Hall Effect sensor is sent to the IPC. The IPC determines the validity of the R-Code within a preset time window started from ignition switch input. The IPC sends a coded password to the PCM, which then allows the fuel injectors to operate normally.
If R-Code is not read within the preset time window, the Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) will go into SHORT TAMPER MODE. The vehicle will not operate for 4 seconds and theft warning light will flash. After 3 consecutive failed timings, the VTD will go into LONG TAMPER MODE. The fuel injectors will be shut off for about 10 minutes and theft warning light will flash. If IPC receives the wrong R-Code, VTD will go into LONG TAMPER MODE. Vehicle may start during tamper modes, but will stall due to fuel shut-off.
Do you have a number on your key anywhere? If so let me know so I can give you the ohms that it should be.
If your camshaft sensor is not working that will prevent the car from starting. I don't have any range charts to measure it though... You need a tester.
Your plugs are AC 41-910
Your fuel pump should be 41-47 psi
The resistance on your injectors should be 1.9-2.3 ohms.
Have you tried checking out a noid light from AutoZone to check the injector pulse?
Not sure of what tools you have... So I have attached troubleshooting info for No Start - Engine Cranks for you to review.
NO START - ENGINE CRANKS OKAY
NOTE: Before performing following tests, check battery condition, engine cranking speed and for adequate fuel in tank.
General Inspection
1. Ensure proper starting procedure is being used. Visually check vacuum hoses for splits, kinks and proper connections, as shown on Vehicle Emission Control Information label. Check ignition wires for cracking, hardness and proper connections at both coil pack and spark plugs.
2. Remove spark plugs. Check and replace as necessary. In very cold temperatures, ensure oil is proper viscosity and not contaminated with gasoline.
Ignition System
1. Perform ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC (OBD) SYSTEM CHECK. After performing OBD system check, go to next step.
2. If Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0335, P0600, P0601, P0602 or P1629 is present, diagnose DTC(s). See TESTS W/CODES article. If DTC(s) is not present, go to next step.
3. Check PCM ground connection on engine block. If ground connection is okay, go to next step. If ground connection is not okay, go to step 5).
4. Check fuel pump and injector ignition feed fuse. If fuse is okay, go to step 6). If fuse is defective, go to step 7).
5. Repair PCM ground connection. After repairs, go to step 33).
6. Check fuel level in tank and add fuel if necessary. If fuel level is okay, go to step 8). If fuel level was low and fuel needed to be added, go to step 33).
7. Check for short to ground in fuel pump and injector ignition feed circuit. Repair as necessary. Replace defective fuse. After repairs, go to step 33).
8. Install scan tool. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Ensure throttle is closed and scan TP sensor. TP sensor value should be less than one volt. If TP sensor value is as specified, go to next step. If TP sensor value is not as specified, diagnose problem using DTC P0121. See TESTS W/CODES article.
9. Using scan tool, monitor Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor and Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor values. Both values should be about the same. If values are the same, go to next step. If values are not the same, diagnose problem using DTC P0118. See TESTS W/CODES article.
10. Check MAP sensor value with ignition on and with engine cranking. If MAP sensor value is greater than 4 volts and then changes while cranking engine, go to next step. If MAP sensor value is less than 4 volts and does not change while cranking engine, diagnose MAP sensor. See SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS article.
11. Using scan tool, check Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor activity while cranking engine. If "CKP Activity Counter" increments while cranking, go to step 23). If "CKP Activity Counter" does not increment, go to next step.
12. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 11-pin Ignition Control Module (ICM) harness connector. Connect DVOM between ICM ground (Black wire) and ignition feed terminals (White or Orange wires). See Fig. 2. Battery voltage should be present. If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, go to step 14).
13. Set DVOM to AC scale. Connect DVOM between ICM harness connector terminals "F" (Yellow wire) and "J" (Purple wire). See Fig. 2. Crank engine. Voltage reading should be greater than 200 millivolts (mV). If voltage reading is as specified, go to step 16). If voltage reading is not as specified, go to step 15).
14. Repair open in ground or ignition feed circuit to ICM. After repairs, go to step 33).
15. Remove CKP sensor. Ensure CKP sensor is still magnetized and terminals are not damaged. Using DVOM, check CKP resistance. Resistance should be 500-900 ohms. If resistance is as specified, go to step 17). If resistance is not as specified, go to step 18).
16. Using a test light connected to battery positive, touch ICM terminal "G" and then terminal "H". Monitor "CKP Activity Counter" increment on scan tool. If increment changes as test light is touched to ICM terminal "H", go to step 19). If increment does not change, go to step 20).
17. Repair open or short in CKP sensor harness. After repairs, go to step 33).
18. Replace CKP sensor. After replacing CKP sensor, go to step 33).
19. Inspect ICM harness connector and check for clean and tight connection. Repair as necessary. If connector is okay, go to step 33). If connector needed repair, go to step 22).
20. Check CKP activity (7X reference) circuit of an open or short in circuit. Repair circuit as necessary. After repairs, go to step 33). If circuit is okay, go to step 22).
21. Replace ICM. After replacing ICM, go to step 33).
22. Replace PCM. After replacing PCM, go to step 33).
23. Disconnect all injectors. Install injector test light on injector No. 1 connector. Crank engine and watch injector test light. If test light flashes, go to next step. If test light does not flash, go to step 27).
24. Remove ignition coil and ignition control module assembly. Install Spark Plug Jumper (J-36012) between coil and ignition control module. Remove spark plug boot from companion cylinder of ignition coil housing and install jumper wire from spark plug boot connector of ignition housing to ground (cylinders No. 1-4 and 2-3). Using Spark Tester (ST-125), check for spark on all 4 wires (one at a time). If spark jumps spark tester on all 4 wires, go to next step. If spark does not jump on any or all of the 4 wires, go to step 28).
25. Install fuel pressure gauge. Turn ignition on, with engine off, for 2 seconds. Fuel pressure should be 41-47 psi (2.9-3.3 kg/cm2 ). If fuel pressure is as specified, go to next step. If fuel pressure is not as specified, go to FUEL SYSTEM test.
26. Check for fouled spark plugs. Replace as necessary. If spark plugs were fouled, go to step 33). If spark plugs were okay, check for water in fuel system. Check for basic engine problem (low compression). Ensure spark plugs are of resistor type. Check fuel pump operation with scan tool.
27. Repair open in fuel pump and injector ignition feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 33).
28. Turn ignition off. Disconnect jumper wires and remove ignition coil housing. Disconnect ignition coil harness connector at ICM. Connect test light between battery voltage and ICM control terminal for ignition coil(s) that did not spark. Crank engine. Test light should flash as engine is cranked. If test light flashed, go to next step. If test does not flash while cranking, go to step 30).
29. Check for faulty ignition coil harness connector or open in ignition coil harness. Repair as necessary. If circuit is okay, go to step 31). If repair was necessary, go to step 33).
30. Disconnect ICM harness connector. Using DVOM, check resistance between ICM terminal "A" (White wire) and ground and terminal "B" (Orange wire) and ground. See Fig. 2. Resistance should be 600-2600 ohms. If resistance is as specified, go to step 21). If resistance is not specified, go to step 32).
31. Replace ignition coil that did not produce a spark. After repairs, go to step 33).
32. Check ignition control circuit for an open or short. If circuit is okay, go to step 22). If circuit was open or shorted, repair as necessary and then go to next step.
33. Clear DTC(s) using scan tool. Start engine. If engine starts and continues to run, go to next step. If engine does not start or starts but dies, go to step 2).
34. Warm engine to operating temperature. Check for DTCs. If DTCs are present, go to TESTS W/CODES article.
Possible Cause & Correction
Check the following items:
"Â Check fuel pump relay by connecting test light between fuel pump relay connector ignition feed circuit and ground. Turn ignition on. Light should illuminate for 2 seconds. If light does not illuminate for 2 seconds, see FUEL PUMP RELAY under FUEL SYSTEM in SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS article. For location of fuel pump test connector, see COMPONENT LOCATIONS in SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS article. Check for blown injector fuse.
"Â Check for poor quality or water contaminated fuel.
"Â Visually inspect injector fuse(s).
"Â Check for a binding or sticking TP sensor, or high TP sensor voltage with throttle closed.
"Â Check EGR operation.
"Â Check for a leaking injector.
"Â Ensure resistance of engine coolant sensor circuit or engine coolant sensor is within specification. See SENSOR RANGE CHARTS article.
"Â Check for proper spark output using Spark Tester (ST-125).
"Â Check for shorts by spraying plug wires with a fine mist of water.
"Â Remove spark plugs and check for wet plugs, cracks, improper gap, burned electrodes or heavy carbon deposits.
"Â Check fuel pressure.
"Â Check for loose ignition coil ground. Also check ignition coil fuse.
"Â Check for faulty in-tank fuel pump check valve (if equipped). A faulty in-tank fuel pump check valve will allow fuel to drain back to tank after engine is stopped. To check this condition, turn ignition off, disconnect fuel pressure line at fuel rail and remove filler cap. Using a radiator test pump, apply 15 psi (1.0 kg/cm2 ) pressure. If pressure holds for 60 seconds, check valve is okay.
"Â Ensure the installed PROM is correct for that particular vehicle. Check with dealer for latest application information.
"Â Check for restricted exhaust system.
"Â Check Idle Air Control (IAC) system. Check for vacuum leak at high idle. Check for binding of throttle blade or linkage. Check for foreign material in IAC bore of throttle body. Check for proper connection of IAC valve electrical connector. Check for failure of A/C compressor or relay.
"Â Check MAP or MAF sensor.
"Â Inspect crankshaft sensor clearance and resistance. Check harmonic balancer interrupter rings for bent or missing vanes.
"Â Check if crankcase ventilation valve is stuck open.
"Â Check basic engine mechanical problems (i.E. Compression, valves).
"Â Check distributor vent system (if equipped).
You might check the fuel pump switch/oil pressure sender switch located on the right front of the engine..... That will also prevent the engine from starting.
Pull your alarm fuse..... Then reinstall
Check your PCM fuse.......
Please do the checks you can and let me know and we can try to see from there. I will also do some more searching on a steady light. Does your manual for the vehicle say anything about that?
Friday, February 6th, 2009 AT 9:29 PM
