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Codes P0345 and 0349

Tiny
KORY4420
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 FORD EDGE
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
I just replaced the water pump on my vehicle. Once all back together it's now throwing a p0345 and 0349. Runs good, but a little rough. Not sure what to do.
Monday, February 14th, 2022 AT 8:14 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Sounds like you most likely have a connector that is not fully seated.

It is not likely that replacing the water pump caused this issue and if you have codes for two different sensors, then I would think there was something that was taken apart that is not fully connected.

I would suggest running through all the connectors that you took apart and take them back apart and reconnect them.

I had a Ford a while ago that had an ABS light on and I found a connector that was a little crocked. It snapped together but was not fully seated.

Otherwise, we need to run through the testing for these codes which is the same testing so I would just pick one of them and do this testing.

Here is a guide that will help with this type of wire testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run through this and let me know what you find. Thanks
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Tuesday, February 15th, 2022 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
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I had a question. The last step of DR3 says to "carry out the PCM self-test". How is this done? As I said, the water pump bearing went out and coolant was mixed into the oil. When I got it all back together, I filled it with conventional oil and a fresh filter, distilled water and a radiator flush. Ran it to normal operating temperature and for about 10 more minutes just at idle. Then I let it cool down, dumped the oil and the filter, drained the radiator and filled it with proper coolant and new filter and full synthetic oil. I'm not sure if any contaminants and present any more but the check engine light came on shortly after starting it the first time and remains even after clearing the codes p0345 and 349. Just trying to give you some more background and thank you for the troubleshooting steps. I'm just stuck near the beginning because I don't know how to perform a self-test. Thanks again.
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Thursday, February 17th, 2022 AT 3:41 PM
Tiny
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Got it. That info does help. I am sure you saw the note on the condition of the oil is important on variable valve engines which your engine is.

Here is a guide that talks about this system:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-camshaft-variable-valve-timing-works

So, if you flushed the oil and coolant then I suspect this code was set when the oil was diluted with coolant.

That means we need to find out if the code clears and returns now that you have replaced the oil and it is not mixing.

There is a chance that the variable valve solenoids are damaged but more than likely it was an oil viscosity issue.

Can you try and clear the codes and see if they return?

If they do then more than likely these are damaged. However, the testing will confirm this. The PCM test that it talks about is just to turn the key on and make sure the PCM comes on and turns off. This is the PCM passing the self-test.
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Thursday, February 17th, 2022 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
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Okay. So, I've checked a few more things. The resistance of the camshaft sensor is 1420 ohms or so. The ac voltage coming from the sensor is.8 to.9. With accessory power on I was not able to find any dc voltage coming from the connector and the negative battery terminal. I'm kind of at a loss now and wondering if it's worth using an engine flush and changing the oil again or if as you said I may have a VVT issue. Thank you very much for your help.
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Saturday, February 19th, 2022 AT 4:37 PM
Tiny
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Okay. That is great. Basically, you got all the way through to jumping to DR23. The resistance is good, the AC voltage is above.25 volts, so you jump to DR 23 which is the VCT system.

I attached the testing below. It says to check this for proper operation. You do this by using a scan tool and way the operation of the solenoid.

However, due to the rest of this info dealing with the oil and it is happening right after it, I am going to suspect the VCT is the issue.
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Saturday, February 19th, 2022 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
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Okay. Well, I feel a bit like an idiot. I was poking around after my last reply and noticed that I forgot to plug in the intake camshaft sensor while putting it all back together. So, I got that plugged in and cleared the codes and went to take it for a drive and almost immediately it's throwing a p0017. Bank 1 sensor b which if I'm not mistaken is the exhaust sensor on bank 1. So that's where I'm at now and it appears that I may have to remove the throttle body to get to that cam sensor but I'm not sure yet. I'll do some more checking the light tomorrow at least with that cam sensor. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again
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Saturday, February 19th, 2022 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
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Don't feel bad. That is one of the most common things that happen after doing a repair. I have done it as well and the worst is when you do actually put it back together, but it doesn't fully seat.

Was this code here before or is it new? Could be another connection issue if it is new because this is telling you that the CKP and CMP are not in the same position. Meaning the sensors are telling the PCM that they are not synchronized.

I attached the info on this. Let me know what you find. Thanks
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Sunday, February 20th, 2022 AT 6:22 AM
Tiny
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This is a new code that popped up after I plugged the intake sensor in on bank 2. I'm a bit concerned because the bank 1 intake phasers had to be removed to get a chain guide off in order to remove to water pump. We got all the chain links in perfect relation to the sprockets before reinstalling the tensioner and the phasers right back where they were when they came off.
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Sunday, February 20th, 2022 AT 9:04 AM
Tiny
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Okay. I would just go back over what you did. It is odd that you would have these codes one at a time so that tells me we may still have something loose or not connected.

If you don't then we can dig into this code but let's see if anything else is obvious.

Thanks
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Sunday, February 20th, 2022 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
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Okay, now things are getting wired. I got the edge all back together and after a fresh oil change and new coolant I started it up. No CEL. Then drove it around block, no codes. Turned it off and reported the food news to my wife and we went for a drive. It felt fine except for what seemed like a slight misfire. I went to get on the freeway to head home and under that heavier acceleration the check engine light started flashing and I pulled off to the shoulder immediately. I grabbed my code reader and put it in park and the light turned off and there were no codes. So, I took off again and it started flashing again when I got off the freeway. I still had my reader attached and was able to see p0011, p0016 and p0301. The 301 is a misfire in cylinder 1, the 11 is bank 1 camshaft too advanced and the 16 is cam/crank correlation error. But when I put it in park the light turns off and it drives well of the streets. At a loss now and need more help. Thank you in advance.
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Saturday, March 5th, 2022 AT 10:09 AM
Tiny
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This sounds just like a VCT issue.

More than likely this is causing all the issues because basically once they are damaged, they are not adjusting the valve properly and it will cause misfires and poor running condition.

Basically, I would suggest putting the bank 1 intake VCT on because that will cause the 0016 code as well.

However, I attached the testing as well on the P0011 if you would like to run through this to confirm it.
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Saturday, March 5th, 2022 AT 3:58 PM

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