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OBD 1 code meaning and how to fix

Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 202,000 MILES
Firstly, pray all are well. Thank y'all as always y'all's time and expertise:):):)
My truck listed above XLT Extended Cab is sick. She is running good upon startup but after 50 to 100 miles of driving (sometimes quicker, sometimes takes longer to start) she throws the CEL off and on randomly. When this happens, she starts bogging until I press the gas or cruise control does. Then it will either (immediately) kick back in or (hesitates a bit more) before kicking back in and running right. It is constant upon warming up. Only quit when cold again. I have pulled codes and will list them.
I am needing help with location and what to do to test/ preferably delete the problems. Colorado does not require emissions. I have had the cat's removed for many years with no CEL, not even for the missing o2 sensor. Lucky, I guess. This started early to mid-last year.
I have (within the last 4 months) replaced the EGR Sensor, TPS, and IAC. EGR diaphragm is good and functioning/ moving up and down.

Codes:
213
312
334
536
538
632 which I did not know I needed to push OD button. Should I redo test?
Again, thank y'all and await your help, BobbyB
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Saturday, March 5th, 2022 AT 4:12 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,504 POSTS
Hi,

Based on the codes you provided, the one that stands out the most to cause this type of issue is the 213. That code is related to the ignition system, specifically the spout (SparkOutput). Since the vehicle runs good most of the time, chances are it is a connection issue. It could even be corrosion at the PCM or ignition control module.

To get started, I attached the first 4 steps in the diagnostics. Before you start, make sure the battery is fully charged.

Take a look through them and let me know if you are comfortable performing them.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Saturday, March 5th, 2022 AT 10:24 PM
Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
Hey. Thanks, but I do not have a breakout box. Can I make one?
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Monday, March 7th, 2022 AT 5:55 PM
Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
Hello, I do not see the reply.
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Tuesday, March 8th, 2022 AT 8:05 AM
Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
I replied out of turn. Ooops. I am heading to look at the connection now. Many thanks.
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Tuesday, March 8th, 2022 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,504 POSTS
Hi,

No problem whatsoever. LOL Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 8th, 2022 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
Well, I disconnected the PCM, ICM, spout and main harness. All looked great. The grease is not dry and there is no presence of corrosion anywhere. I forgot a couple of things. It idles rough off and on constantly. The A/C cycles while idling and is fine while driving. Also, she likes to shut off when I have the wheel turned almost all the way and stop then put it in reverse to back into my driveway. Like stalls out. I'm so forgetful. At stop lights last Thursday, she would idle rough and shut off.
I also replaced the coil and vacuum solenoid with green and red vacuum lines. Green goes to the EGR.
Sorrt for the book, lol. Thanks
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Tuesday, March 8th, 2022 AT 5:44 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,504 POSTS
Hi,

Okay, is the idle speed lower than what you remember? It could be something completely different. Do me a favor. Note what the RPMs are at idle and the vehicle is in park or neutral. Then recheck them when the vehicle is in gear with the A/C on and turning the steering.

The AC and steering add an additional load to the engine. I'm wondering if there is an issue with the idle control system.

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 8th, 2022 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
Hey, thanks, but I do not have a breakout box. Can I make one? Or what's a good one to buy?
Ya know I'm a dummy. Yes, I have had an idle problem for a while. It will idle about 7 or 800 then i'll be sitting in gear and it will drop to 4 or 500 and sometimes will shut off. She will Start up fine afterwards, idles fine then she decides when it happens again. Every time it acts up if you restart engine, it quits but not forever. Turning the wheel, especially if it bottoms out rpm's drop and at times causes her to shut off. I have replaced the TPS and IAC as a set on Oct 25, 2021.
Evan-Fischer Throttle Position Sensor Compatible with 1994-1995 Ford F150 With Idle Control Valve.
Thats all I can think of for now.
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Tuesday, March 8th, 2022 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,504 POSTS
When you replaced the IAC, did you inspect where it is mounted to confirm there are no restrictions? As far as a break-out box, I have never tried to make one. Sorry about that, but I'm not sure how one would be constructed.

The idea that when you turn the steering as described causes the RPMs to drop that low is leading me to think there is an issue related to the IAC even though it's new. The PCM should recognize the added load to the engine and compensate by allowing the IAC to open and increase the idle speed.

Let me know if you checked for corrosion in the TB.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 8th, 2022 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
The throttle body is well cleaned when I replaced parts. I'll check the IAC for blockage I hope today. Got stinking snow coming. So, it may be this weekend. I'll let you know. She has had the RPM issue for quite some time. I have replaced the TPS and IAC three times and cannot fix it. Would vacuum leak cause any of this? If so, can you show me the vacuum lines and what should or should not have a vacuum? Thanks my friend, bobbyb
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Wednesday, March 9th, 2022 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
Hey Buddy, I think I know it comes from charcoal canister but what is it for? Part in question is the solenoid? In picture.
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Wednesday, March 9th, 2022 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,504 POSTS
Hi,

Yes, a vacuum leak can be causing issues. As far as the pic you attached, that appears to be the canister purge solenoid. It is located in the vapor line between the fuel vapor canister and throttle body.

Normally, that vent is closed. However, based on running conditions at any given time, the PCM determines when it is a good time for the engine to receive gas vapors from the canister. Then, the valve is opened allowing that to happen.

If you remove the vacuum hose from the canister which leads to the valve, there should be no vacuum when the engine is running. If there is, chances are the valve is stuck open.

See pic below.

Let me know if that helps.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, March 9th, 2022 AT 1:56 PM
Tiny
BOBBYB69
  • MEMBER
  • 37 POSTS
I'm back, I still haven't checked the vacuum for leaks. I know one is to spray starting/carb fluid and see if anything changes. Is there another? Also cleared codes and on a whim took out the spout block. She has better take off and pick up response now. Also only got two codes after 4 hours of driving with it disconnected,
332 and 654.
The spout block ohm reading is.05 ohms.
Does it hurt to leave it out?
What do I need to do to troubleshoot the EGR? Many thanks.
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Sunday, March 27th, 2022 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,504 POSTS
Hi,

You can use a vacuum gauge and identify what the vacuum is. Under normal conditions, you should see between 15 and 18 inches of vacuum at an idle. If it is below 15, chances are you have a leak.

As far as codes, the 654 indicated the transmission range sensor isn't indicating the vehicle as being in park when it should be. Are there any starting issues?

Now, 332 is related to the EGR. It indicates insufficient flow. So, it could be a carbon issue or the EGR isn't opening when the request is made.

Also, if you look below, I attached the directions for testing the EGR. The test I provided is step 1. I need to know the results of this test to know which direction to point you next. So, perform the test and let me know the results.

I will watch for your reply.

Take care,

Joe

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Monday, March 28th, 2022 AT 5:35 PM

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