Starts but won't stay running.

Tiny
SPOONS1909
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 NISSAN 300ZX
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 204,000 MILES
I bought my 86' 300zx N/A just recently not running*. I was told that the vechical was running fine, untill the previous owner replaced the spark plugs and wires. Now the car will start for 2sec. And die. Seems like its runninig out of fuel. Will stay running on starter fluid. I've checked the following: spark plugs, firing order, all electrical connections, new battery, fuseable links, fuses, fuel pressure(39 psi), fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, coil packs, all vaccum lines, fuel pump run's fine on initial turn of key to the on postion. Will not stay running. Have to take key out for one minute before it runs again. I've been working on cars for years now and have never been stumped like this before. Can you please Help me? Thank you in advanced. Shawn
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Sunday, January 18th, 2009 AT 6:41 PM

34 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
It sounds like the air flow meter is stuck can you remove the intake tube and see if it moves freely?
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Sunday, January 18th, 2009 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
EEDWARDS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Mine is doing the same it was the air flow meter, I got a used one and all fixed! I love this stie
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Tuesday, September 20th, 2011 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
SHOTDOWN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I cant find a used one where did you get it?
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Friday, September 30th, 2011 AT 7:40 PM
Tiny
PAULM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • NISSAN 300ZX
1987 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 non-turbo manual transmission. When I disengage the clutch and start to go from a stop, my car sputters. I usually push the accelerator down about half way. When it starts sputtering, I release the accelerator and push down slowly. When I release the accelerator, my car feels like it slips, and it jolts and when I push the accelerator back down a little, it will jolt forward a little and not sputter as much. I've also noticed that it doesn't have very good acceleration what-so-ever, from a stopped position or in a high gear when I'm on the interstate. A friend told me to take the Cat Converter out and I've noticed that people who have trouble with acceleration have received answers to replace or unclog the cat converter. My friend also suggested to replace the headers and get a better exhaust system. Unfortunately, I don't have much money at the moment and am looking for the cheapest way to get better performance and better fuel economy, with increased acceleration. Please and thank-you.

Nick Markham
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAINBALLOGY
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Hello,

This guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Let me know.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOTLEYHAYNIE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1985 NISSAN 300ZX
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 215,000 MILES
I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. I have replaced spark plugs. I have put new fuel lines and vacuum lines on the car. It starts up and cuts right off on its own. If I spray starter fluid in the intake it starts and I have to keep my foot on the accelerator or it will cut off. When I do that I can only get the car to go to 3,700 rpm's. What could be the problem?
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Put a vacuum gauge on the inlet if 15" or below suspect a clogged converter or exaust
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HOWLANDJM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1985 NISSAN 300ZX
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 195,000 MILES
I have cleaned the injectors, replaced fuel filter, fuel relays, distributor cap, rotor button, spark plugs+wires, starter, and established the pump is in working condition. I have adjusted the timing. The car will idle for a moment then it slowly drops in rpms and while driving it will randomly stall out and sputter when u attempt to accelarate
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Inspect and test all the following listed below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking, fuel filter or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MARYNBRAD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1985 NISSAN 300ZX
  • 6 CYL
  • MANUAL
My car will start but wont stay running
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure if it's within specs also are the injectors pulsing.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STRAH#1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1987 NISSAN 300ZX
I start car it runs for about 5min and then stops? If I start it and spray starting spray it stays running! So what could be my PROBLEM?
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the coolant temperature sensor, fuel pump relay and fuel pressure specs
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ZXGUY1986
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1986 NISSAN 300ZX
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 240,000 MILES
My 1986 Nissan 300zx non-turbo was running fine, then just stalled out suddenly and would not restart. I checked the plugs, wiring, fuel, all are OK. I installed a new coil, distributor cap and rotor. If I unplug the connector wire to injector #2, engine will start but idles on only 2 or 3 cylinders (very weak ignition in cylinders 2, 4 and 6). When engine is idling, if I reconnect injector #2 again, engine will stall out and will not restart - unless I spray Carb and Choke Cleaner into the air intake while cranking the starter. Then it will start. I checked the fuel pressure and it is 37-40 psi at idle - which is in the range specified in the Nissan Manual. Can anybody help me figure out what the problem is?

EDITED on 06/29/10:

Thank you, rasmataz! (Below).

We just checked the ohm readings at injectors #1, #2, and #3 (the others are buried deep behind wiring and hoses.) - And the reading at #2 was way off, only 1/3 of the readings at #1 and #3. So, #2 is definitely failed. I really appreciate your help and I will be making a contribution to this site!

Thanks again, ras and guys !
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check and test the injector no.2 solenoid resistances could be shorted out and dragging the other ones down or the wiring itself
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LLAMAFEEDER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1986 NISSAN 300ZX
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 69,000 MILES
I had some electrical problems on this car. Replaced the ECU (or ECM. What ever it's called) and it ran great for a few days. It sat for awhile and lately have been driving it and it blubbers. You can play with the accelerator to get it to run better, but in 4th or 5th gear is no good at all. Don't know if I should be looking at fuel or electrical. Alternator is less than a year old. Put new battery cables on. Just dunno.
Thanks
LF
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Engine running rough or misfiring can be cause by the following:

1. Defective spark plug
2. Inadequate spark/coil, defective spark plug wire.
3. Lack of compression
4. False air leakage.
5. Faulty fuel injectors.
6. Insufficient fuel pressure.
7. Contaminated fuel.
8. EGR valve that is leaking.
9. Oxygen sensors.
10. Throttle position sensor.
11. Idle air control valve
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WESTEXMEX
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1986 NISSAN 300ZX
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 130,000 MILES
Codes 11, 13, 13, 21, 23, 31, 33&41
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
You got some serious problems here-Check for spark and let me know-

Diagnostic Trouble Codes - 1986
Nissan
11 Crankshaft Position Sensor
12 Air Flow Meter
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
21 Ignition Signal
22 Fuel Pump
23 Throttle Valve Switch
31 Air Conditioner
32 Start Signal
44 System Okay
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MGBOB49
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1986 NISSAN 300ZX
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Car cranks but won't start.

No dome light or diagnostic(dash) lights.

No accessories what-so-ever.
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Thursday, January 3rd, 2019 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)

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