I'm at my wit's end, help!!!

JEEP CHEROKEE
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RELLIKNIKCUF
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I have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 automatic. I went off roading where I took on water. Engine didn't stall and I made it out OK. Engine ran rough for about 5 minutes and cleared up. The 20 minutes drive home was OK and so was the 20mile drive a week later. About a day later I started it up and it idled at 1500-2000 RPMs when normal is around 700-800 RPMs. After a couple of minutes it returns to normal RPM. One time it almost died while idleing for about 5 minutes and got a code "MAP Signal Fault."
I drove the jeep for the first time with the high idle and had to hit passing gear to stay ahead of the traffic. When I got into town in 30 mph zone, it didn't want to shift from 1st. Now, all of the time, I have to get the RPMs up to 3000-3200 RPMs and take my foot all the way off the accelerator for it to shift from 1-2 and 2-3 or let it get all the way up to 4000-4500 RPM and it will shift on it's own. Fluid level is OK and not discolored. Disconnected kick-down cable and still the same. I haven't go a clue abot this and don't want to tear anything apart if it is just a sensor or something simple. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. If I can get the help to fix my problem, I would definitely make a donation since it would save me taking it to a shop. I have always fixed my own vehicles.
Jan 23, 2007 at 9:14 PM
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CARUNDELL
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[quote:884f05b167="relliknikcuf"]I have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 automatic. I went off roading where I took on water. Engine didn't stall and I made it out OK. Engine ran rough for about 5 minutes and cleared up. The 20 minutes drive home was OK and so was the 20mile drive a week later. About a day later I started it up and it idled at 1500-2000 RPMs when normal is around 700-800 RPMs. After a couple of minutes it returns to normal RPM. One time it almost died while idleing for about 5 minutes and got a code "MAP Signal Fault."
I drove the jeep for the first time with the high idle and had to hit passing gear to stay ahead of the traffic. When I got into town in 30 mph zone, it didn't want to shift from 1st. Now, all of the time, I have to get the RPMs up to 3000-3200 RPMs and take my foot all the way off the accelerator for it to shift from 1-2 and 2-3 or let it get all the way up to 4000-4500 RPM and it will shift on it's own. Fluid level is OK and not discolored. Disconnected kick-down cable and still the same. I haven't go a clue abot this and don't want to tear anything apart if it is just a sensor or something simple. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. If I can get the help to fix my problem, I would definitely make a donation since it would save me taking it to a shop. I have always fixed my own vehicles.[/quote:884f05b167]

Hey Rell,
Wow! Ummmm .....sounds like a vacuum leak is a good place to start on this one. Inspect all of your vacuum lines/hoses and replace any that may be cracked or broken. Pay close attention to the one going to the MAP sensor too! Let me know!!

Chris
Jan 24, 2007 at 3:53 AM
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RELLIKNIKCUF
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[quote:3fa5f40b9e="carundell"][quote:3fa5f40b9e="relliknikcuf"]I have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 automatic. I went off roading where I took on water. Engine didn't stall and I made it out OK. Engine ran rough for about 5 minutes and cleared up. The 20 minutes drive home was OK and so was the 20mile drive a week later. About a day later I started it up and it idled at 1500-2000 RPMs when normal is around 700-800 RPMs. After a couple of minutes it returns to normal RPM. One time it almost died while idleing for about 5 minutes and got a code "MAP Signal Fault."
I drove the jeep for the first time with the high idle and had to hit passing gear to stay ahead of the traffic. When I got into town in 30 mph zone, it didn't want to shift from 1st. Now, all of the time, I have to get the RPMs up to 3000-3200 RPMs and take my foot all the way off the accelerator for it to shift from 1-2 and 2-3 or let it get all the way up to 4000-4500 RPM and it will shift on it's own. Fluid level is OK and not discolored. Disconnected kick-down cable and still the same. I haven't go a clue abot this and don't want to tear anything apart if it is just a sensor or something simple. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. If I can get the help to fix my problem, I would definitely make a donation since it would save me taking it to a shop. I have always fixed my own vehicles.[/quote:3fa5f40b9e]

Hey Rell,
Wow! Ummmm .....sounds like a vacuum leak is a good place to start on this one. Inspect all of your vacuum lines/hoses and replace any that may be cracked or broken. Pay close attention to the one going to the MAP sensor too! Let me know!!

Chris[/quote:3fa5f40b9e]

Hey Chris,
I can't believe it. It was worse than ever this morning on the way to work, then, going home for lunch and stopped at a red light, I pushed the accelerator and it shifted normally. It's been working well ever since. I will check the vacuum lines anyway, thanks for responding so quickly.
Jan 24, 2007 at 6:41 PM
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CARUNDELL
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Your welcome!!
Jan 24, 2007 at 6:47 PM
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RELLIKNIKCUF
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Aaahhh!!! It's doing it again. I left for lunch and it didn't want to shift again. When it ws shifting normal, it also idled normal. So the high idle and shifting problem are definitely related. I also got a new trouble code, 41 Fault in the charging system or no field current. Thanks for your help.
Jan 31, 2007 at 12:32 PM
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CARUNDELL
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[quote:5c50c96527="relliknikcuf"]Aaahhh!!! It's doing it again. I left for lunch and it didn't want to shift again. When it ws shifting normal, it also idled normal. So the high idle and shifting problem are definitely related. I also got a new trouble code, 41 Fault in the charging system or no field current. Thanks for your help.[/quote:5c50c96527]

Is your "kick down" (passing gear) a cable set up or linkage? It may be binding/sticking causing both conditions. Manually operate the throttle from underhood and see if its keeping the throttle open and binding on the kickdown linkage

Chris
Jan 31, 2007 at 12:41 PM
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RELLIKNIKCUF
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It is a cable setup. It goes straight into the transmission with no visible moving parts. I disconnected the kick-down cable the day before it started working again and never hooked it back up. I thought that might be what fixed my problem, but it returned today and the kick-down cable was still disconnected. I'm not sure what else it could be.
Jan 31, 2007 at 5:57 PM
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RELLIKNIKCUF
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Turned out to be the TPS, funny, no code evr came up for the TPS.
Jul 1, 2007 at 7:35 PM
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