1992 Jaguar XJ6 Found a leek then a bigger issue

Tiny
JAULT01
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 JAGUAR XJ6
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
I had a power steering leek in my xj6, and I found an issue with a return hose and the problem was solved. Or so I thougt.

Days later I started to see fluid on my driveway, and then realized that the PS fluid was running low again. I couldn't find the culprit.

Driving to work today I heard a pop, and some squeeling (metal on metal) but it didn't continue for very long. The pop didn't occur when I was turning the wheel, but rather when I hit a pot hole or something like that.

I looked under the car, passenger side, and noticed that the boot at the end of the tie rod (?) Had a a tear in it and noticed that it was sagging a bit.

My buddy who works on cars said that the joint was broken and thought it to be called the inner UV joint, but I couldn't find that part on all data. He said that Jag may call it something else. What I found on All Data was a steering knuckle and the tie rod end.

My question is, what is that part? I need to order that thing and replace it before I have no steering. I also would like to know if that can be the cause of a power steering leek.
Friday, December 18th, 2009 AT 9:53 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
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Hello -

To better assist you is the model just the SJ6, or the Majestic, Sovereign or the Vanden Plas and what is the engine size in liter?
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Friday, December 18th, 2009 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
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The model is 1992 XJ6 Sovereign 4.0 Litre
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Friday, December 18th, 2009 AT 11:34 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Thanks for the info.........

Well, I have searched all through our manuals and it appears the Jaguar folks didn't want to release any pics of the suspension or steering.

To me it appears you are talking about two things... The tie rods which affect steering and connect to the wheel hub and then you mentioned the UV... Which do you mean the CV joint which is on the axle shafts, that have the CV joints on them covered with the boots

As for the leak....... Just worked on one that had a leak..... You need to wash the engine down really good especially anything connected to the PS pump and lines and where they go and connect.

Once clean start the car and have someone slowly turn the steering wheel from one side to the other with the front on jacks. Then check really good for any leaks to see where coming from. If on jacks, please use all safety precautions, jack stands, wheel blocks etc and don't just hold the steering wheel to each stop.....
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Saturday, December 19th, 2009 AT 12:09 AM
Tiny
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So the two boots on either side of the front shaft cover the CV joints? And those would cause the popping and the noise? I read that when the boots rip and the grease washes away that this will happen. I just want to make sure that I am clear with this. You are right... the Alldata parts explosion diagrams tell you nothing....

Is it safe to drive the vehicle until the part arrives? And if so, can I make a 200 mile round trip?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/220061_helper_2.jpg

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Saturday, December 19th, 2009 AT 1:34 AM
Tiny
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Hello -

Thanks for the info. . .. . ..good pic. . .. . .. . .I believe if you look at the number 3, click on it, it may be called a bellows or a boot. Either way, is item 3 the boot that is torn? If so there is no grease behind this. You can take a good visual and verify.

I included below a pic from a Ford Taurus for you to also see a little bit better break down. The red arrow pointing to number 23 is the boot for this tie rod. Is this what is torn on yours?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture2_64.jpg



When we speak of CV boot, (Constant Velocity) this usually means the boots on the drive axles that come out of the transmissions and go into the center of the wheel spindle. Of course Jag didn't provide us a good pic so what I did was put a pic of the CV boot below from a Ford Taurus for you to see. If you look at number 4 that is circled, you will see a joint that has some ball bearings. The CV boot, number 6 goes around these and fits over number 1 and is held in place by clamps 5 and 7 and is full of grease since this a joint and is spinning at high speeds.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture1_101.jpg



Compare yours to this and so if you are sure there is no grease in yours and it is the tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion, then we can press from there.

Now if it is the tie rod boot and not the CV boot, then I would say yes, it is safe to drive if there is no damage to the tie rod itself. The only thing I would do is take some plastic and wrap around it and secure with plastic ties. Make sure the plastic is loose enough to expand and contract as the tie rod goes in and out.

Okay, I know that is a pretty crazy temp fix but I have done it before. Looks stupid. But you are just wanting to keep dirt etc out of that as best as possible.

Now the pop you heard is what concerns me. That could be a ball joint, tie rod end etc. That needs to be checked before your trip.

As for the PS leak. As I said, just worked on one that had a leak. . .. . ...you need to wash the engine down really good especially anything connected to the PS pump and lines and where they go and connect.

Once clean start the car and have someone slowly turn the steering wheel from one side to the other with the front on jacks. Then check really good for any leaks to see where coming from. If on jacks, please use all safety precautions, jack stands, wheel blocks etc and don't just hold the steering wheel to each stop. . .. . ...

If the rack is damaged as you see on the pic below from the Ford, item 26, fluid can start leaking from that area. So you need to do a really good visual after the wash to see where the fluid is leaking from. The rack, the pump or one of the lines may be damaged.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture2_65.jpg



So, my suggestions. . .. . .. . ..

Make sure the boot is torn on the rack not the CV boot per above. If the tie rod okay.

Take to a reputable front end shop and have them check out your front end, tell them you heard a pop. Most of the time these shops will check for free and then provide you with an estimate of whatever. If they tell you a bad ball joint then I would get that fixed before the trip. That can come apart and the pop concerns me. If they can't find anything and says all is well other than the boot on the rack. Then say thanks. . .. . ..get an estimate for them to fix that and press on home.

Then wash and really do the good check for the leak per the above also looking for any leaks from the rack since boot is torn and the other places per the above. Hopefully located and easy fix.

THEN, put the temp fix plastic around the tie rod to keep dirt etc out of the rack and press. Again, if trash gets inside that rack it may cause damage.
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Saturday, December 19th, 2009 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
JAULT01
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I believe that the inner tie rod boot is what is ripped. After looking into this more. When my buddy felt around under the car he said that it was sagging a bit. I am starting to think that its the inner tie rod end. I guess that I should stay put until I fix this thing, right? This is my primary car. So this is why I ask. I am not sure of the consequences. I am new to repair.
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Monday, December 21st, 2009 AT 12:37 AM
Tiny
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Hello -

Thanks for the info.

If the boot is ripped, then I would do as I suggested above.

If it is a tie rod that is hanging you shouldn't have any steering..... Unless it is just barly hanging in there.

Are you able to take a pic and send to us?

Have you looked at it or just your friend?

Until we are sure what it is I can't advise to go or stay... The safest thing is to not drive it. A rental car is an option.

Also you might check with your insurance to see if you have free towing.....

If so, after you call around to find a reputable front end shop I would tow it there and let them tell you exactly what is wrong... That still may be free..... Ask them......... If it just a boot...I refer to the above.

Again, are you able to get a few good pics?
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Monday, December 21st, 2009 AT 7:51 PM
Tiny
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As of right now I cannot get a photo. There is about two feet of snow on the ground! I will try to get some in the next day or two.

Thank you for your help, I will try to up the donation in a day or two!
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Monday, December 21st, 2009 AT 10:01 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Wow....... That is a lot of snow.......

I can try a good look with a photo.......

I still suggest checking the towing of your insurance..... Mine gives two free.....

Then have the front end shop check it out.......

I don't want you hurt or injured in anyway if I can't see something from a photo that can easily be seen looking at it.

Do what you can on the donation my friend.....I understand..... Hey... It's Christmas... Tis the season so again, just do what you can.......
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Monday, December 21st, 2009 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
JAULT01
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Well, I found my problem. The bearings on the front passenger side were. Well, fried to say the least. As for the tie rod it was fine. The bearings were so far gone that it caused that big of steering issue. I wish that I would have caught on to that earlier.

When I disassembled the wheel I noticed that the brake disc securing screw was gone as well (the screw that secures the rotor to the hub assembly). I am sure that this isn't helping matters in the very least. I can not find the specs on that screw anywhere though. I need size, and torque. Can you help me with this at all?

As for the boot and the leek. The leek is coming from the steering gear and actually getting into the boot. There was no grease in the boot, just fluid. I don't think that should be happening! (Or is this a jag thing?) I have a new boot on order.
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Sunday, December 27th, 2009 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Thanks for the info

Wow, you are pretty lucky. . .. . .. . ...I have seen bearings go out and you need a torch to heat to get off of the axle.

Hey, you can't always see a bearing going out. . .. . ..or I am sure you would have been on top of it.

Not sure if you did but you might consider remove/replacing the other side bearing too. It has just as many miles. . .. . .. . .how did the grease in it look?

If it is the one in the pic below that most likely will come from the dealer. Some I have gotten from Auto Zone or O'Reilly's but since it's jag. . .. . ...well you know.

That is a special size etc. . .. . .so jag parts for the caliper bolt.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_F7_4.jpg



Caliper Mounting Bolts
Front 50-60 Ft Lbs
Rear 49-55 Ft Lbs

No, shouldn't be any fluid. . ...There is an O-ring in there at the end of the rod. My thought is when you are at Jag have them print out the IPB on that area. Sometimes you can replace the O rings sometimes the entire Rack must be replaced. If it is only a small amount of fluid then I would install the boot and press.
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Sunday, December 27th, 2009 AT 8:11 PM

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