Replacing upstream O2 sensors

Tiny
NCOUNTYLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD F-250
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157,000 MILES
My question is at the end of this sad tale.

when I was underneath the truck I decided, since I had them already, to change out the upstream o2 sensors. In the truck listed above there are no downstream sensors. Mistakenly I went to the driver's side first, easily accessed the sensor, removed and replaced it. Ten minutes start to finish. Then went to the passenger side and looked up to where the sensor connects.
that should have been a warning. Anyway, I managed to disconnect the switch and put a 7/8 this open end on the nut after spraying with pb blaster.

There is virtually no room to work in there, you will have to get creative when trying to remove the sensor. So, the open ended slipped and I did not break the nut. Next I got a torch, using mapp gas I heated it up again and again used the 7/8ths open end. Nothing. Next I cut wires and took a deep socket and both half in ratchet and breaker bar but again space restrictions made this also a no go.

heated again and tried the closed end wrench. No go.

i took a small grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the top of the sensor off so I could slip a 12-point 22mm socket over the nut and use my cordless impact. (Amazingly it fit) I heated the nut again, pressed impact in place and hit trigger. Ran impact until it smoked and quit on me. This impact is old, I believe a newer one with more torque might have done the job.

got pipe wrench and gave it a shot but it would not fit if you wanted the jaws placed properly. Tried heavy vice grips but no go there either. This exhaust is two into one so there are three connections to be dealt with to drop it. I do not want to do that. I can access the pipe at a few inches below the old sensor and drill and weld in a bung. Is this feasible? I am a millwright/welder so I can tig stick or mig weld the bung. That is basically my question. The rest serves as a warning to anyone wanting to give this a try.
Sunday, March 27th, 2022 AT 9:02 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,310 POSTS
Hi,

Before going that route, do you have a 6-point 7/8" or 22mm socket? I would try that first. Pic one that is snug going on and tap it onto the remainder of the sensor. If it is a 6 point, it should get it off.

If that doesn't work, they make extractors for removing rounded-off bolts. I have a great set of Snap-On that have never let me down, but I know other manufacturers make great ones as well. Gearwrench makes them as well. See the pic below to see what I am referring to.

Now, to answer your last question, yes you can do that. It seems like a lot more work (at least to me) but I don't have the same experience you do. My welds look like. Well let's just say not too good. LOL

Just for future jobs, they make a socket specifically for the removal and installation of an O2 sensor. See pic 2. I'm adding this because it sounds like you like doing the job yourself. You can get these at any parts store, and they work great.

Let me know if this helps or if there is anything other, I can help with.

Take good care of yourself,

Joe

See pics below.
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Sunday, March 27th, 2022 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
NCOUNTYLINE
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Joe, thanks for the reply. I ordered a set of extractors from Amazon. They will be in tomorrow. The main problem is that there is very little room to pivot a wrench and trying to add a breaker bar means working around the tail pipe. Today I took an.035 cutoff wheel and went in underneath the nut itself and cut away the washer and stopped when I just touched the bolt. This gave me (very small) access to the threads. I sprayed pb blaster and free all in there several times and it seemed to take. We'll see. Right now, shopping compact air impacts because I can get the extractor on the nut at the correct angle with one of those but first I will try the standard ratchet to see if the thread lubricant took.
If the impact shears the nut my next move would be to cut between the nut and the bung, drill this out with a right-angled drill (i tested this possibility on the other sensor I removed, it could be done) and use a tap in extractor to remove what's left of the threads.
Now, if that fails I will simply cut the bung of, grind clean, purchase the bung that's mounted on pc of rounded metal that fits the pipe radius, position it, put a mirror in place behind it and do my best to get that back side tight. The sides and front I could do pretty easily with a stick. I'm not sweating this too much either way I've had to do worse and I like working through the possible solutions. Again, thanks for the input. JM
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2022 AT 2:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,310 POSTS
Jim,

That sounds like a good plan. I'm just glad it's you are doing the welding. LOL I never developed the touch. I can't even imagine what it would look like if I did it using a mirror. LOL

Take care and let me know how things turn out for you.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2022 AT 3:26 PM
Tiny
NCOUNTYLINE
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Okay, glad that is done with, and I got lucky (i guess) because I removed the sensor and replaced it without any horror story to relate. I purchased an extractor kit and earthquake compact impact wrench from harbor freight. With just the extractor the impact would not fit so I added a two-inch extension and had just enough clearance. I watched a video with a Ford tech that said to put your wrench on the nut and hit it with a hammer; a three pounder if you had one but to absolutely not use an impact. That made no sense to me so I discounted it. Also, I watched several videos of people heating the sensor and spraying the pb blaster or free all both before and after. What good is that? I think using the.035 cutoff wheel on a 4 1/2 in grinder and cutting into the washer opened up access to the threads for the lubricant, which is what I did and there was lube on the threads of the removed sensor.
I hammered the extractor onto the remains of the nut, then I attached the extension and the impact wrench. I set the impact at one and began gently hitting it. Then I set it on two and continued to work it, went to three and started slow, saw it move a little, laid into it a little more and then just spun it out. That's it, less than 15 minutes.

I did not heat the bung today since I had already heated it twice. I also used my air hammer with a chisel in it to hit the nut on side and from top.

If my plan at this stage failed, next I was going to cut the nut, drill and use an inside extractor. Like in the photo. I tested this and the square head is a lot better than a hex head.

Anyway, new sensor in, thanks for the replies and suggestions. JM
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Thursday, March 31st, 2022 AT 10:05 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,310 POSTS
Hi,

First, thank you for that excellent and descriptive update. It will certainly help others in the future.

Also, I'm glad to know you got it fixed. Please feel free to come back anytime in the future if you have questions. You are always welcome.

Next time, you need to teach me to be a better welder. When I do it, it looks like someone skated through dog poo. LOL

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, March 31st, 2022 AT 2:03 PM

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