Codes P0826 and P1701, grinding/rubbing noise when car is rolling in neutral?

Did you do the brakes on both sides or just the one? Also, when you drive the car does the noise change when you are steering right or left? If so, I would say you have a bearing hub going out which is common. Try to hear which side the noise is coming from and replace the bearing hub here are instructions in the images below. Check out the images (below). Also please start a new question for the trouble codes because we only handle one problem per thread. Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.

Hello KEVROELS22,

P1701-Has to do with the Transmission Control Module losing power or ground.
P0826-Has to do with the shifter position called the Manual Mode Switch and sends information to the TCM. This is in your shifter in the car.

One thing that can cause this code is low power input which could be related to the corrosion on the battery terminals or your alternator not working correctly. If the TCM isn't seeing the right voltage it can cause both of these codes.

The reason the codes disappeared is because when you remove the battery terminals to clean them it will clear all the codes and any data associated with them from the PCM.

Another possibility is an issue with the TCM itself, it's connector and any related wiring.

I have added an image of the location of the TCM for your reference.

My thought is the TCM wasn't getting enough power and could have caused issues in the transmission. I will say it is strange it happened 3 days after getting tires put on.

Now even with the transmission in neutral it will move the transmission internally it will be driven by the wheels moving instead of the engine.

These transmissions are fairly simple. One possibility is the differential. This allows the front wheels to turn at different speed as the vehicle turns. A tire that is worn more on the passenger side then the drivers it can cause the differential to heat up and eventually fail. Also, a tire that is at a lower pressure can have the same effect because a tire with less pressure has a smaller circumference than a properly or overinflated tire.

It is also possible it has nothing to do with the transmission as you said but with those 2 codes it seems more likely it is something to do with the transmission and the new tires made the problem worse as the new tires have more tread, thus having a larger circumference and ultimately will have to travel faster for the vehicle to go the same speed spinning the differential faster.

Does the noise seem louder when turning or is the same whether you are turning or going straight?

I would start by checking a few simple things:
First there is a label on your door jamb that tells you the tire size that is required for your vehicle. I would make sure the exact size is on your vehicle.

Next, I would make sure your tire pressures are exactly where they are supposed to be. You can find this information on the same tag as the tire size.

I would check all four tires to make sure everything is right.

One thing I have seen a lot of techs do is over or under tighten the wheel lug nuts. They should be torqued at 83 ft lbs. For your vehicle.

If they were over torqued, the heat generated by using the brakes will warp the rotors and could cause them to rub.

Any pulsating or vibration felt when applying the brakes?

If under torqued the wheel can be ruined and so will the studs. In most cases the wheel can fall off.

Next, I would chock the rear tires, jack up the front, and place jackstands underneath the vehicle. With the vehicle in neutral spin your tires by hand and see if you can hear if the noise is coming from one side or the other. I have added a diagram on the best lifting points for your vehicle.

Then I would grab the tires at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and move it and see if any play. If so this could indicate a bad tie-rod or wheel bearing. Usually, a bad wheel bearing will make noise at anything above 5 MPH and get worse as speed increases. But I feel it is a good idea to check all of this to prevent unnecessary replacement of parts.

Then grab the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position and check for movement the same way and see if there is any play. This could indicate a ball joint issue.

A bad ball joint or wheel bearing can cause the rotor to drag on the caliper bracket and make noise.

I feel it is best to check the easier things first to at the very least rule them out.

Since you changed the brakes on one side and it got better, I would pull the front wheels off and spin each side looking at the brakes, axles, wheel bearings everything. You can also grab the axle and pull up and down and see if there is any play in the joint.

I would take a look at the brakes again but both sides. In my opinion you should always replace thing in pairs especially brakes.

I would remove the brakes on each side pads, rotors and caliper and spin the bearing by hand.

Did the noise get better?

How did the brakes look when you took them off?

Where the pads worn evenly? I will add an image to help identify possible brake issues.

Is your vehicle a Hybrid?

Is the grinding noise worse under acceleration?

If the vehicle is parked and running, do you hear the noise?

Finally, I would use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter or DVOM and put each lead on the battery with the vehicle running. You should get about 14 volts. Watch it for a while and see if it is dropping off to 12 volts. A faulty alternator can cause these codes as well.

If you don't have a DVOM or a Torque wrench you can pick them up at your local auto parts store.

In conclusion it is very possible the transmission is damaged from not getting the right information from the TCM especially since it is happening at lower speeds. However, I feel it is best to check the simple things first so that they aren't overlooked causing unnecessary replacement of parts.

I know this is a lot of information and if you need any guidance or help, please do not hesitate to message me back.

Thank you,
Brendon