Engine misfire?

Tiny
MOTLHABANE
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The car was first misfiring on two plugs and smoking, I overhauled the engine and put new set of plugs. I timed it with cam position one v-up and four v-down, when my crank mark on zero, On starting the car I had to move plug wires around for it to start, even though it was still misfiring. It was blasting when on their real position. So it idled for six to seven minutes and it just stopped running. After that it never started again.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello -

Thanks for the info

Okay, so if I understand you correctly you had the battery and alternator checked and both are good.

The light does not have to be on to have thrown a code. So you check the codes with a scanner though and no codes were thrown.

Is this when the engine is still cold, say the first start of the day or does it do it all the time even when the car is warmed up?

At 60,000 miles, you are supposed to replace: Air cleaner filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a few other things, but those don't relate to your condition.

First, take a spray bottle of water and start the engine and mist the water all over the plug wires and see if it anything changes. Let me know.

Some of the things that can cause a rough idle are the throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor, a vacuum leak, the EGR valve.

My suggestion is to do the normal required maintenance above to include the wires. Look at each plug though to see how it looks and let me know.

Then answer the above it there is no change. Your thoughts?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Have you checked injection pulse, compressions and fuel presure
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EPAGANO26
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 325,000 MILES
Replace. Spark plugs, spark plug cables, catalisti converble, mufflerand pipes. All sensor, fuel injectors, troter, all the parts out side the engine was replase. Compretion on each cylinderis about 90 bls. Across.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
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Sorry I am here because of PM was sent to me
and this is what I think

It is very normal for the PCM to limit the RPM when no load reading
when RPM reach 3000 or above PCM looks for load
and since its in neutral or in park (load is very low if any )
PCM will shut down injectors to limit the RPM and protect the engine from internal damage
so I believe what you are experiencing is a normal operation
if it running and driving fine and no check engine light on
I would say all good and nothing to worry about
do you regular maintenance
and happy driving
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
2004 Ford Ranger engine light comes on( randon miss fire ) P0300 normally points to vacuum leaks and bad fuel

Could be caused by the following worn or fouled spark plugs, a weak spark (weak coil, bad spark plug wire), loss of compression, vacuum leaks, anything that causes an unusually lean fuel mixture (lean misfire), an EGR valve that is stuck open, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, or even bad fuel.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOTLHABANE
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Good day. I've changed my cam positions of one and four respectively, i.E, changed my timing from one to four. The engine is now excellent and very powerful. But firing order has changed completely in all terminals. I'd like to thank you for every effort and time you have offered, with your advises and concerns on making sure that I get the car in good condition. Thanks!
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Thank you for the feed back, good tom hear all is well now.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GEARY86
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
Okay so for the past 2 years, the check engine light in my truck has been sparatically on and off. When it comes on and begins flashing usually when idle. The car idles real rough and when I push the accelerator it takes off extremely slowly, untill about 30 mph and then the engines power returns and its ok and the light stops blinking. Now there are some times it will be on for a month or two and then it'll go away for another 2 months. Its very random. When it first happened I had it scanned and it reported a Cylinder 4 misfire. Since then I have replace the fuel filter, cleaned the injector, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the wires and was told that my O2 sensor was ok and there was no vacuum leak. No one can give me a straight answer to fix the problem and I cant afford to take it to a dealership for 3 days only to find out I could fix myself and save 600 bucks. Please help me.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Sounds like an injector that is intermittently shorting out. When the light is on, or it is missing, you need to use a meter to measure the resistance across the injector and compare it with another one or to to see if it iis different. Ther are unfortunatly no "straight" answers when dealing with intermittent issues, unless you are able to do some testing during the failure.I would have it scanned again just to be sure it is coming up with the same misfire.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANGERIS1
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I'm having the same exact issue. I took it to a shop and explained the problem. They replaced an injector. I drove it out of the lot and the problem started at the first light I stopped at.

I'm stuck with this one as well.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TR32
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
KEEP GETTING CYLINDER 6 MISFIRE. INSTALLED NEW PLUGS, WIRES, INJECTOR, CRANK SENSOR, COIL, AND CHECKED COMPRESSION. STILL HAS MISFIRE. WHAT DO I DO NOW?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Have you checked compression, fuel pump pressure, and the injector to make sure it is getting power?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TR32
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I CHECKED COMPRESSION, HAS 150LBS. USED NOID LIGHT. GOOD PULSE. HAVNT CHECKED FUEL PRESSURE. DIDNT THINK FUEL PRESSURE WOULD CAUSE A CYLINDER TO MISFIRE. IM LOST!
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
It can. If you have a good pulse at the injector and compression, it is either a short in the plug wire, coil, fuel pressure, weak spark to that cylender, or even a vacuum leak.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:57 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANGERIS1
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 2004 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 80,000 MILES
I have a 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 with about 80k miles on it. A few years ago, while I was idling, the check engine light started flashing and it started running rough. The RPMs lowered to about 800 and the needle was bouncing a bit. Ten seconds later it picked right back up.

This would happen sporadically but it became more and more constant until it would do this anytime I stopped the truck and idled. However, whenever I started driving the power would kick right back in. The problem only happened when I idled.

The check engine light eventually stayed on. I used a code reader and it had two--that the truck was misfiring under 1000 RPMs and that the #6 cylinder was misfiring.

I took it to a shop and they diagnosed it as a bad plug (their code said it was the #4 cylinder). I paid them to replace the plug, drove off the lot and at the first stop the truck started running rough again.

The shop wants to tear down the engine and I'm not able to have it registered until it passes smog--which it won't because the check engine light is on. Any ideas? I've changed plugs and wires and I've cleaned the air sensors.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Code for #4 is p0304 for six its p0306 compression test will tell if engine work is needed or if you have a bad injector or coil. Try moving the coil to a different cylender if problem movrs with it replace coil.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANGERIS1
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
The compression test came up normal. I'll try moving the coil. Thanks!
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Fixed?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANGERIS1
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Not sure. The coil pack for the 04 Ranger isn't the kind that you can move the coils around (I was told you could with older versions). I couldn't get a shop around here to bench test it so I swapped it out with one that I know works properly. Because the truck's not currently registered I've only let it idle and the CEL hasn't triggered yet. I'm hoping to put some miles on it soon to see if that was the issue. I'll add an update once I'm confident either way.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 10:58 AM (Merged)

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