Check Engine Light Stays on?

We need to rear the codes to see what's going on this guide can help us find the codes so we can fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

Is there a simple fix to this code or a general fix on Rangers with this code? I live in Germany and really don't have alot of resources.

P0171 Lean A/F mixture

* Low fuel pressure due to a weak pump or leaky fuel pressure regulator. (use a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure at idle)

* Dirty fuel injectors. (try cleaning the injectors)

* Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, vacuum hose connections or throttle body. (Use a vacuum gauge to check for low intake vacuum)

* Leaky EGR valve. (Check operation of EGR valve)

* Leaky PCV Valve or hose. (Check valve and hose connections)

* Dirty or defective Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). (Try cleaning the MAF sensor wires or filament with aerosol electronics cleaner. Do NOT use anything else to clean the sensor, and do not touch the sensor wires)

The check engine light came on but the truck seemed to run ok untill yesterday. The battery was dead and it won't rev over 3000rpm while in park or neutral until you drive it,then it runs fine. also the radio for some reason stopped working at the same time. I replaced the fuses and that didn't help. I am not sure what is related and whats not.

Ok first call around to your local parts stores and find one that does a free scan and have them scan you truck, write down the codes and then clear them and get back to me with the codes and we will see what the truck can tell us.

Did a complete tune up, plugs , wires, air filter , repaired all vacum leaks. used a smoker to find leaks. Has high ltft on bank 1 at idle , 18%, other trims are normal, close to 0%, plus or minus 5%. On test drive it bog at full throttle and the check engine light flashes until you stop and let it idle for a few minutes. Engine don't seem to have full power. At idle it has a slight roughness. Think it may be cam positioner sensor. What do you think.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge autoparts rent it

Thanks for the come back. I have a fully equiped functioning mechanic work shop. We buy it if need be and only rent if absolutely necessary, like a fork lift, etc.
We checked the fuel pressure yesterday along with what I said before. Just drove the truck and the check engine light comes on for a few seconds after you full accelerste. pending codes are random misfire and miss on 4,5, 6 cyls. Just checked the vacuum at idle and is around 18 inc. now think the cat conv. is spopped up on the right bank. Runs fine at low speed or low rpm's. Let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Jim

18" is lower than normal but normally a plugged exhaust/cat is normally 15" at idle what is it when this happens. fuel pressure should be 60-65 key on engine off or running. it should remain with in 10 psi after shutdown for 2 minutes. if fuel pressure is low I would think it would cause psart of your problem. also check injectiors misfires are a bitch to find as it can be any basic engine problem and or sensors. check all grommets for being good as well as this can do it.

fuel pressure is 58psi running and slow bleed of after shutdown. Seem to be a slight erratic reading on the b1 sensor 1 o2 sensor.
Just drove the truck again and don't have proper power and scanner reading was again, miss on 4,5, 6 and random misfire but it runs perfect on the road as long as no full acceleration. again the LTFT on bank 1 is much higher that the other ST and LT fuel trims. Yes we replaced all bad grommets including the drivers side pvc elbow. All with new parts. Tightened top manifold bolts. Drives like a restricted exhaust but who knows. Guess we will drill the 1/4'' holes in the exhaust tomorrow and see what the gauge reading is. Yes we are still open for other ideas, o2 sensor? beats the hell out of me.

58 psi is to low even 2 pounds can make a difference replace fuel filter at same time

Thanks for the come back. This is fyi, believe it or not, our parts truck is a '97 3.0 ranger with 30 psi fuel pressure and 40psi if you remove the vacuum hose from the regulator. Has been running like that for about a year.
Remove the y exhaust pipe on the 03 ranger and the l side was partially blocked and the cat convs had come apart. Has three cats on that pipe and all were bad. Will replace the y pipe with factory type.

Thanks

truck runs pretty rough at times i plugged in my code reader and reads out 0303 which is #3 cyl. misfire detected. could this be a bad coil? is there a simple way to check this? thanks

[quote:785396897b="bradmur"]Computer problem
2003 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 60,000 miles

truck runs pretty rough at times i plugged in my code reader and reads out 0303 which is #3 cyl. misfire detected. could this be a bad coil? is there a simple way to check this? thanks[/quote:785396897b]


Hello,

Yes, it could be the coil pack or a few other things. You can pull the coil wire off and see what color the spark is. It should be a Bright Bluish/White.

It could also be the wire the plug itself a vacuum leak.

Check out the link below for more info.....

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_does_my_engine_run_rough.htm


.

i have 2 codes, on eof them is P2196 Lack of HO2S-21 Switching, Sensor Indicates Rich. What would cause this problem. I have replaced my 02 sensor twice as well as the ICM. also i have a P0132 HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Circuit High Input. What is this problem. i have had it to the dealer more than once

Hi
Both codes are for HO2S-11 right rear engine in exhaust. P0132 is a short in O2 or harness the P2196 indicates O2 not switching. If that is the O2 you replaced then short in harness to PCM. That would explain why when replaced still shows codes.
Let me know
Thanks for donate
3.0L or 4.0L?

it is a 4.0L

the engine lite does not come on but the car seems to be getting hot icould it be a problem with the fuse where can I find the fuse for the check engine lite I do not like driving without it working

engine light will not illuminate just because the engine overheats. that is what the coolant temperature gauge is for.

is there not a fuse the light never lights up on most cars it lights up when you start it and then goes off this one never lights up

no there is no separate fuse for that light. if its not lighting up for the bulb check (when you first start it) then the bulb is either blown or missing. some "dirty" sellers / car lots will actually take out the bulb if the engine light remains on so that the buyer will not see the check engine light on.

how can I get to the light to check it your are correct I did just purchase this pickup and now I am worried how can I fix the light

you will have to remove the instrument cluster. i have posted the correct removal and installation steps below. once out, just twist the bulb to remove it and replace it.

12 miles to gallon, can smell gas when starting up, check engine light is on

if check engine light on and blinking need to check it for a tune up
to best help in your issue have to get the truck scanned for codes

smell of gas :leaking injector ,bad fuel line,bad coil ,fuel regulator ........

my transmission fluid was flushed and refilled three days ago after finding out that it had turned brown. today the check engine light turned on and i checked it again. it turned brown again. any ideas what might be wrong.

it is going to turn brown, that's normal. does it smell burnt or have any shiny , metal flakes in it? if not then it's fine. have the check engine codes scanned at a local auto part store, most do it for free. post the code(s) you get and i will follow up.