Check engine light stays on

Tiny
REALITYOFSORROW
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
My vehicles check engine light keeps coming on. I disconnect the battery and the battery ground, the light goes off for about 4-5 starts then comes back on after the 4th- 5th start. All fluids are topped off, how do I keep the check engine light off and staying off until the engine really does need servicing? Thank You.
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Sunday, August 23rd, 2009 AT 4:15 PM

34 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
There's something else causing the CEL to come on other than servicing it-Take it to Autozone and get the computer scanned for OBD2 code/s its a free service.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Sunday, August 23rd, 2009 AT 4:38 PM
Tiny
TARHEEL9
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 500,000 MILES
My check engine light stays on. I got the codes read and it said to change the oxygen sensors, so I did. Now it says to change the front oxygen sensor. I've had my computer reset several times and the light will stay off until I turn off and restart the vehicle. I even took the front sensor back and exchanged it for another one, because I thought the first sensor might be a bad one. I just had a tune up, and got a new exhaust system from front to back. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIM SHIRRON
  • MECHANIC
  • 77 POSTS
I've seen lots of oxygen sensors w/connection problems, I guess because they're so close to dirt & heat. With 1 sensor replaced twice & still same code, it just about has to be some kind of wiring problem. Let me know if you get it fixed, and what you did, I'd like to know.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
First of all thank you so much for your donation. Let's start with what code's did you have before you changed the sensor's and what did you change. Also what code's you have now?
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TARHEEL9
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hey guys. Thanks so much for your input.I found a small crack at the connection to the ignition coil, and also a blown fuse under the hood that had something to do with the oxygn sensor. I changed these out and got it to pass inspection.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Glad to hear you got you car all figured out and passed inspection thank you for using 2carpros.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
REPTAR022000
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 116,000 MILES
My 96 ranger check engine light came on, I brought it to the part store to get it scanned and the codes cme out "bank 1 and bank 2 too lean" but it doesnt seem to affect the performance of the engine. What are some possibilities that it could be.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Most likely the Mass Airflow Meter, as long as fuel pressure is good. Try a fuel filter first if it hasnt been done already, if so the MAF or a vacuum leak in the common intake area like a pcv line or something that is in the main intake plenum
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GRANDDADR
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 134,000 MILES
I own a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 liter V6, manual transmission that I pull behind my motorhome. At about 75000 miles the Check Engine light came on (and stays on). Local Ford Dealer tried about $300.00 worth of sensors, but after a few days the "check engine" light would come back on. Finally, they told me it would take "extensive diagnostic and repair charges" to repair the defect and suggested I might "drive it like it is". I have driven it for about 60000 miles since that time and the light still is on.

However! I spent a week in Estes Park, Colorado (at an elevation of 6800 feet and above) and after the second day the light went out and stayed out all the time I was there. When I returned home the lamp came back on after only one day. I went to the Ford place and told them about that. They suggested it "might be" a "pressure" sensor or "altitude" sensor, but couldn't be sure. They wanted another $300 or so to find out. I said no.

Can you help?

Thanks,
Ron
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
It is very possible to be the MAP/MAS sensor
what is the code
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GRANDDADR
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you for your reply.

I no longer remember the codes given me by the Ford dealership 60000 miles ago. I tried to get Auto-Zone to read the codes, when I got back from Colorado, but they say my truck has a computer plug that does not match anything they have. Also, I have purchased two different "Code Readers" from different sources and neither of them would match the plug on my truck. I was told that Mazda intentionally put this plug on because Ford wanted to have the only reader that would fit.

I know this isn't a help, but I'm kind of "in a pickle".

There is one other thing that I have noticed the truck doing but I don't know if it's related or not, and I don't remember if it started doing this after the check engine light came on or not. It ONLY does this in the hot summer time (July or August) and after the truck warms up by driving it 8 or 10 miles with the air-conditioning on. When the engine idles down below 1500 RPM I hear a very low pitched "whistling" sound -- more like a "moaning" sound. The slower the engine idles the louder the moan. I raised the hood and it was coming from the air input duct work into the top of the engine. It's almost like a "vibration" because you can lay your hand on the duct work and feel it. Tapping the accelerator pedal will stop it until the engine idles down again. Naturally, during the normal course of driving the engine is usually above 1500 RPM and I never hear it -- only at stop signs or such.

Can that be related?

Thanks,
Ron
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
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Hi Ron
1996 should have the OBDII connector

codes for sure will help
you can check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold
check air filter
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OHMDR
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD RANGER
I've got my father-in-laws Ford Ranger this week while they are on vacation, and the check engine light is (has been) on. My father-in-law says that he took it somewhere and they said it was an "emissions thing". Don't worry about it.

Well, I'm not that way with my vehicles, so I put my CarChip on and ran diags. The code that comes up is: P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

I took the EGR off and cleaned it up, reset the light/codes and took it for a drive (about 12 miles. A block from getting back the light came on again, same code.

I purchased a new EGR valve tonight, installed it, reset the light, and drove the same "test route". About 6 blocks from the house it came back on.

I also pulled one of the spark plugs tonight and it looks oiled/sooty. And overgapped. I figure the truck is running rich with the current problem which would account for the "oiled" look, and I noticed the plug wires are looking pretty worn/cooked. I have new plugs that will work in the truick and will get new wires tomorrow. - I doubt that will fix the problem though.

I'm open to ideas guys and gals.

The truck has the 3.0 liter V6, automatic trans, and 126,000 miles on it.

My in-laws come back Saturday am, and I would like to give the truck back in a little better shape than the left it. They really do a lot for us, so I don't mind spending some time and a few dollars on it.

Thanks.

John
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
If the 401 code is still present remove the egr valve and clean the bore all the way to the throttle plate, I use a steel coathanger. If U use a cleaner use a very mild one Ford coats their throttle assembies with teflon. After cleaning and reseting the MIL, if it shows the 401 again, replace the EGR possition sensor.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OHMDR
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
- It was pretty late ;ast night when I finally got around to fixing this last night, so I didn't get it posted that I got the problem fixed.

It was the EGR Position Sensor/DPFE Sensor.

Thanks for the reply though.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Sure.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROODIS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD RANGER
  • 16,000 MILES
I have a 96 ford ranger auto. 2wd 4 cyl. Been a great truck. Just started having this problem. My o/d light will come on and off, and my check engine light will come on. Did it a week ago, but went out. Now it just did it again. Any idea what the problem is? Truck seems to still run and drive fine.

Great site :)
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,014 POSTS
Hi:
Part of your post was deleted because it was placed in the wrong area. Can you explain what is happening with the OD light?
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROODIS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
My o/d light blinks on and off, and my check engine light will come on. Did this a week ago, but went off. Just did it again yesterday.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,014 POSTS
That indicates there is a trouble code is set in the computer regarding the transmission. Have the computer scanned to identify where the problem is coming from.
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Wednesday, March 25th, 2020 AT 1:36 PM (Merged)

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