1981 Ford Bronco no spark

Ok I might have a different motor(possibly newer) cuz I have replaced the sensor located next to the harmonic balancer the distributor does not have any wires coming out of it. Yes I do have a multimeter and yes I get about 6.5 out of the + side of the coil. I have also tested continuity for both wires coming off the coil to the end of the wires that I can trace.

[quote="racefan966"]Ok I think I know what you have you have a california model Bronco. So it has a crank trigger not a sensor because there is just a hollowfect distributor that is non adjustable for timing and the carb should be a veriable venture carb as well. The venture carb has black sliders on the top it is not like a normal carb. If you have a newer motor it would injection and have a computer and such. So if you would please take off the air cleaner and include a pic of the carb and such. I really need this info to better help you as this system is on its own and different from any other system and it was only used on caliifornia smog vehicle with ford and not very popular either. This is the best pic I can up with. Let me know so we can do this right ok.

lol yes this emissions set up is not very popular and is going to get removed on the accout the i dont have emissions here in this part of ohio. i dont believe that is the carb that is on i have several pictures for you to maybe help. if this one does not help i can post others

I apologize for the length of time before a response

Battery at 12.39 v dc
postitive side of coil key on engine off 7.30
negative side of coil key on engine off 2.54

the plastic grommet is brown with five wires. i believe the ignition system is the duraspark III

[quote="racefan966"]OK lets check the coil wire what is resistance of it is should be less then 5000 per inch of wire.
Now lets do a voltage supply test to the ignition system ok. First you need to check the starter relay if there is a I term then I need you to disconnect the battery cable between the relay and the starter. If there is no I term on the starter relay then disconnect the wire on the S term. Now at the ignition module I need you to stick the white and red wire with a straight pin.
Now turn the ignition switch on and check the voltage at the red wire it should be near battery voltage.
Now have someone turn the ignition to start possition (like you are going to start it but it will not try to start) check for voltage at the white wire it should be battery voltage.
Now have someone turn the ignition switch to the start possition again and check the voltage at the possitive side of the coil it should be near battery voltage.
Now go ahead and turn the key off and disconnect the voltmeter and remove the pins and hook you starter relay wire back up. If the voltages where less then 8 volts at any point then check the wires going to the ignition switch if all it ok there then replace the ignition switch. Here is a pic of how to hook things up if you need it. The next 2 pics are for reference later if needed.

Do you have a box like this anywhere?

Here is a pic of the wiring for the ignition system. We may need this later.

Ok with the key on the Red wire has 11.75, roughly what the battery is. The white wire ( key in the start position) only gets 1 (one) volt. The coil (key in start position) gets 7.5 volts. So from what you are saying my issue will be between the modual and the ign switch, or possibly the switch its self? If I am correct the box your looking at would be the main computer. Located under the drivers seat? If so then yes

Alright sorry about the delay. So after installing and reinstalling three different ignition switches I am left with the old switch that will turn over the motor and power everything else (i.E radio). And a new switch that will not turn over the motor but does provide power to everything else. I have check continuity with all the wires off of it and they all are in working order.