Many issues after replacing ECU that had gotten wet

Alex, The ECU, s # for my car(OEM) was a11-a32-b36. The replacement I got is a Cardone, # 72-3266. I called them and one of the techs said that this ECM replaces 4 numbers including mine, and is the right replacement for my Sentra. The stats for my car are. 1988 Sentra 2 dr coupe, fwd, 4 speed, 1.6 L (96.7 cid) E16(i) I4. The I is for throttle body injection. The cardone 72-3266, according to the tech, Application Data:
w/FI and Calif. Emissions and w/M.T. And FWD. From what i've been told, you can't get a unit with the same # anymore
Thanks, Chris

Alex,
I sent the ebay guy a message. Is there a way to know exactly what ECM was in my car. I know it was A11-?32-B36. The plastic sleeve wore a line down the sticker and partially faded the #/letter. It looked like a B, but I was told it was an A.
Thanks again,
Chris

Alex,
the EBAY guy said the ECU has not been tested so no way to know if it works. He said the number would be an A. A11A32B36 is the only option it could be. If this isn't the reason for the car to run badly, any ideas what it might be? I don't want to chase ghosts.
Thanks,
Chris

Alex,
Before the ECU went bad, the car ran really good. I forgot to say that the morning after water got to it, I tried to start it before I knew about the ECU. That's why I was concerned about damage somewhere else(maybe in the harness or connectors to sensors). But after the new unit was installed, it ran good for two to three days, then started to run ragged. Seems like every person has a different thing it could be. I took it to a shop and was told forty five minutes. Later they didn't know because all they work on is new cars. Can't find anyone who works on these.
I have no idea where most of the grounding is in the harness, just 1 or 2 that are obvious(ground straps to frame), but that wasn't it before all of this happened.
Is there a way to test MAF or TPS sensors? I don't know much about DMM's, besides the one I have is a cheap one from Harbour freight and it's not reliable. Couldn't even test the injector because the car's too old.
Thanks for your information. Hope the questions aren't wearing you down. I hate these computerized cars.
Chris

Alex,
Man, that's a lot of stuff. I will say this though. In the time I've had this car, the check motor light has never come on. Last year when it didn't pass smog. Even when the ECU cooked. Could be the bulb is out. I looked at the fuse box after this and none were blown. Maybe an inline fuse somewhere. I have noticed though that coming out of first and second gears it's pretty rough with little or no power, and if you can get to around 35-40 in third, it smooths out quite a bit, and even into 4th. But after 6-7 seconds in 4th it cuts out and loses power. If you let off the pedal for 2-3 seconds and ease back into it it smooths out then it repeats again. By the way, thanks for the diagrams. Now if I only new how to read'em. Aint nothing like my Chevelle.
I need some advice on something. Last week at AutoZone, one of the customers came out to look at my car to see if he could tell what it was. With a flashlight, you could see the gas swirling around down the throttle body. This is after we found out the injector couldn't be tested. He squeezed the fuel line almost in half and it ran smoother. Until I get this fixed, how mush harm will it do if I restrict the line some to quit dumping so much gas?
Chris

Alex,

I didn't think it was wise. I know the check motor bulb works, when the ignition is turned on(before it cranks), the light is on. For the injector, I never replaced one. It's just below the air cleaner lid, so I was told. Just weird that it seemed fine before the ECU burned.
I thought about getting that ECU from eBay, but man, buying a used part that could also be bad is risky.
I want to ask you about the MAF sensor. How hard is it to take off and clean on those 88 cars? Or would it be worth it? I can't buy just the MAF sensor. Or the TPS. Again, everything worked before.
Thanks for putting up with all the questions.
Chris

Alex,
I got that ECU off eBay and installed it. Most of the trouble I've had is gone. Gas mileage is about triple(was around 8 mpg). After shifting through all four gears, seems to run smooth no more shaking or jerking, very little if any smoke from tailpipe. Can't smell that rich gas odor.
But, the idle is better but still a little rough(has a different smell, slight shaking, and sounds to me like a little knock to it), and it stalls frequently(not always)when coming to a stop. There is a slight loss of power when holding speed steady(usually third or fourth gear) but if you press on the gas it picks back up. Going to change air/fuel filter this weekend(even though they're only one year old, about 4,000 miles).
Thanks,
Chris

Alex,

Forgot to get back to you. I changed the filters, even the small crank filter in the snorkel (never was one when I bought the car) a few months ago. Sounds weird, but it seems to run slightly worse. It still idles rough and stalls when coming to a stop a lot. It is very gradually getting worse.
Not sure what to look for.

Sorry to get back so late. I have to get a more reliable meter. The cheap one I have isn't any good.
A couple things though. As the car gets warmer, the idle improves some, but it's still rough. It also has a rich smell cold or warm. Not a gassy smell, it's more high emissions.
As your driving, sometimes it loses power, like a slight surge, then clears up. This is random.
About 2 months ago, I was wiggling the main harness(next to the TPS which branches out into all the sensors) to see if there was a loose connection somewhere. The idle would fluctuate up, then go down to normal right away.
Did that a couple times. I traced what I thought (not 100% sure), was a 2 wire harness leading to the back of the throttle body (facing motor-left side behind the T.B.). It screws into the T.B. And has a white plastic housing. When I wiggle the harness now, it doesn't do it anymore. Is this a coolant temperature sensor?
Thanks once again,
Chris