2006 Dodge Magnum

Hello –

To better assist you please tell me if your Magnum is a RT, SE, SRT-8 or SXT model.

it is the se 2.7 model

Hello –

There seems to be a TSB on the problem you are describing. Does this help you out?

RINGING SOUND COMING FROM PROPELLER SHAFT WHEN TRANSMISSION IS SHIFTED FROM DRIVE TO REVERSE OR REVERSE TO DRIVE
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 03-004-07, Date of Issue: December 19, 2007
CHRYSLER: : 2007 (KA) Nitro; 2007 (L2) 300C (China); 2006 - 2007 (LE) 300/300 Touring (International Markets); 2005 - 2007 (LX) 300/Magnum/Charger; 2005 - 2007 (WH) Grand Cherokee (International Markets); 2005 - 2007 (WK) Grand Cherokee; 2006 - 2007 (XH) Commander (International Markets); 2006 - 2007 (XK) Commander
GROUP: : Differential & Driveline
Related Ref Number(s): 03-004-07
ARTICLE BEGINNING
SUBJECT
Ringing Sound Coming From Propeller Shaft When Transmission Is Shifted From Drive To Reverse Or Reverse To Drive
OVERVIEW
This bulletin involves replacing transmission output flange on certain vehicles and applying "Stud N Bearing Mount Adhesive" to the transmission output shaft flange splines.
NOTE: This bulletin only applies to RWD vehicles equipped with NAG1 transmission (sales code DGJ).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION
A ringing, snapping or popping sound may be heard coming from the drive line when the transmission is shifted from forward to reverse or reverse to forward. The sound may also occur when the brakes are released after shifting into or out of Drive or Reverse.
DIAGNOSIS
Start the vehicle, apply the park brake and shift the transmission from forward to reverse and back with the brakes applied. If the sound is present, perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED
PARTS INFORMATION
Qty. Part No. Description
1 04318032 Stud N' Bearing Mount Adhesive.
1 52108234AA Nut-Collar Double Hex
1(AR) 05175566AA Output Flange (3.5L)
1(AR) 52108628AB Output Flange (3.7L)
1(AR) 05135158A Output Flange (5.7L)
1(AR) 05170003AB Output Flange (6.1L)
SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT INFORMATION
C-3281 Flange Holder
8992 Flange Puller
9078 Staking Tool
C-4171 Drive Handle
REPAIR PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Mark the propeller shaft in relation to the transmission and axle flanges prior to removal.
1. Remove propeller shaft: refer to the detailed removal procedures available in DealerCONNECT > TechCONNECT under: Service Info > 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE > PROPELLER SHAFT > REMOVAL
2. Using Special tools C-3281 and 8992, remove the transmission output shaft nut and remove the flange (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1: Identifying Flange Puller
Courtesy of CHRYSLER
3. Is your vehicle one of the following vehicle/engine configurations?
a. Yes: Proceed to Step #4.
b. No: Proceed to Step #5
o 2005 LX 5.7L built prior to August 18, 2004?
o 2005 LX 6.1L or WK 3.7L built prior to June 22, 2005?
o 2006 LX 3.5L built prior to June 22, 2005?
4. Replace output flange with corresponding part number in Parts Table above.
5. Clean the splines on the output shaft and the output flange and apply a thin coating of MOPAR Stud N' Bearing Mount Adhesive, p/n 04318031 or equivalent, to the splines of the output flange.
6. Install the flange and tighten the nut to 200 Nm (150 ft. lbs.).
7. Stake the nut using 9078 staking tool and C-4171 drive handle.
8. Install propeller shaft: refer to the detailed installation procedures available in DealerCONNECT > TechCONNECT under: Service Info > 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE > PROPELLER SHAFT > INSTALLATION.
POLICY
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE
TIME ALLOWANCE
Labor Operation No: Description Amount
21-15-02-90 Replace Transmission Flange On Certain Vehicles And Apply Adhesive To Transmission Flange LX/LE/L2 1.3 Hrs.
KA/WK/WH/XK/XH 0.6 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE
FAILURE CODE
68 Noisy

Hello - Also one other thing. It looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.

yeah but i dont hear it when i shift from park to reverse or park to drive i just herar it when i am accelerating after the car warms up a little. so i dont know if this is the same problem as the tsb i know that i hab my tranny overhauled a cuple of weeks ago but they thought that the overhaul would have cured the nois but i did not

also i cannot hear the noise unless i hit the gas pedal.

Hello –

When you had the trans overhauled – were they aware of the TSB and did they repair what it says?

on the tsb you gave me it dosent have the 2.7 engine on the tsb

Hello –

I am sorry for the inconvenience…….I have had something urgent come up and will not be able to advise at this time. No worries though….I just sent your post to two other outstanding moderators that will be in contact with you in no time.

So please stand by and again……….sorry for the inconvenience.

Hello, I, and another moderator, are going to try to fill impalaSS's shoes while he's out of town. I've read your post, and bear with me while I ask a couple questions.
Do you have any aftermarket equipment on the car ie; exhaust or intake modifications? Has the car always made this noise, or is it something that all of a sudden developed? Please advise, and we'll try to figure something out.

no the noise has been there for the last 2 months but before that it was not there and there has been no mods to it everything is stock the dealer tried replaing numerous parts like the intake manifold and pullys but the noise still is heard if you pull the belt off and press the gas pedal

also the noise only starts when my temp gauge is on the line before the center line

Is it a ringing like something is making contact or is it more like a harmonic

ita a hard noise to describe but what throws me off is that once the car warms up and the temp gauge reaches about halfway the noise starts and then if i drive it aroungd for 15 minutes the noise will go away.

also since ive had this noise fo 2 months i thought something would have broken by now.

An overlapping metalic noise that increases in intensity as the engine speed increases, yet dimminishes as engine reaches temp ussually indicates abnormal piston and cylinder wear. to find the problem cylinder, remove spark plugs one at a time until noice stops. i could be wrong, trust the pros not me

yes but the noise does not start until the engine is warmed up and it should have thrown a code if it was a cyclinder.

and plus the noise only occurs during acceleration there is no noise if its just ideling with the foot of the pedal.

ok... (30k was young for my diagnostic) do you think it could be the water pump? they are known to make noise, but i am unsure of the noise patterns and actual sound

i know you took the belt off and the sound was still there, but do not know if your water pump is powered by the belt.

no its not but i dont see anything leaking,but im so lost with the noise the dealer has the car and they say they cant hear the noise but my question is why does it start makiing the noise only when the engine is warmed up all the way but then disappers and no code is being thrown.

"no its not" is that not powered by belt, or not the problem. it does not have to leak for the bearings to be bad, though it should. your noice is truely baffling. the dealer should be able to find it... hey... could it be one of the fans??? you said it comes with temp, then goes away after driving... engine could cool with wind turning fans to opperate off clutch only. i will keep throwing ideas at you until they get stupider and stupider and we finally find the issue, or the dealer does and charges you out the wazzoo

i dont have a clutch its automatic, but the car drives fine so i dont know, its really annoting but since ive had the noise for 2 months shouldnt something have broken by now if it was mechanical and if it was a bearing shouldnt it make the noise all the time.

i mean the noise does sound like a bad bearing but im wondering if it could be the exhaust. but if it was a cyclinder wouldnt it throw a code i mean i remeber when i replaced my spark plugs and i put one in wrong it threw a code it 3 minutes saying a misfire so.

not sure on the pump bearing. by clutch i mean the fan's ability to turn with the motor off. if it is your fans making the noice, then you would have no problems as long as they did not quite, then your car would overheat. remember we are trying to think way outside the box. your engine is young and we hope it is ok, noices are real hard to diagnos, even harder than electric over the internet. my fan idea may hold water, i was hopping a pro would commit.the dealers not hearing it does not surprise me. they may not let it run long enough. let me think some more on this one.

i have on oldsmobile with an exhaust noice that comes with RPMs, but it comes with RPMs at any temp and when you have an exhaust noice, you ussually know it.. by the way check everything except my spelling

so im not sure what to do cause i cant figure it out and neither can the dealer

Ok.. when it goes away, does it go away for good, or come back at idle? and by idle i mean letting it sit and run for 10 minutes or so

most of the time it dosent come back but sometimes it does but when it does come back it only does when im driving. if i park it for a couple of hours and then when it warms back up it makes the noise for a while and disapperas as usual

well you could check and see if the noise is consistant ith the fans being on.. other than that look for any other possible patterns. i will talk to a few mechanics i kno and see what i can learn.

yeah but i know it makes the noise as soon the temp gauge hits the line before the middle so i dont know, but it only makes the noise when i hit the gas pedal never when just ideling without me hitting the gas pedal.

Possible coolant flow through the heater core changing when the t-stat opens. This is a strange one, Id love to hear it in real life.Im looking for the temp relation to the noise as well

i still cant figure it out and its driving me crazy lol.

It would be nice to see if at that spot on the temp gauge is when the PCM goes into closed loop.The mixture changes at that point, could be engine or exhaust related

well i have had this noise for 2 months, if it was enginge related wouldnt the engine have broken or thrown a code by now?

Some things wont throw codes, due to being mechanical in nature or just a harmonic. If it doesnt directly harm the way the engine runs it wont set any codes

so if it was that will anything break at somepoint if it is harmonic?

hard to say without knowing what it is.You may be onto something with the exhaust, but honestly without hearing it , this will be very difficult to diagnose

lets say it where to be the exhaust, then why does it only make the noise onece it is warmed up?

nyking12 may have a good explaination for your noise. Not saying the exhaust is the problem, but it makes sense. Years ago, GM used a "double wall" pipe for the exhaust from the exhaust manifolds to the muffler. this system was 2 pipes, one inside the other. Over time, with the constant heating and cooling, heating and cooling, the outer pipe would actually crush ine inner pipe to the point where it acted like a plugged cat. converter. Not that this is your problem, but it gives you an idea as to what affect temp change can have on the exhaust system. Do you hear any of this noise out the tailpipe? If not, it may be up closer to the exhaust manifold, or coming from the exhaust manifold itself. Just an idea.