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1998 Chevy Lumina Rear spark plug replacement, engine rotat

Tiny
BMAC1011
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET LUMINA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 13,000 MILES
I have a Haynes Repair Manual for this Lumina, and I want to change the plugs and wires. However to get to the rear plugs, you need to rotate the tranverse 3.1L engine forward to get the clearance needed to replace the rear plugs. This Haynes manual says to:

1. Block the wheels, place transaxle in "Neutral" position and disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the air cleaner intake duct.

3. Remove the torque strut to engine bracket bolts and swing the strut aside. Place the bolt back into the passenger side bracket.

4. Using a pry bar in the passenger side bracket rotate the engine forward and secure it in this position. To secure the engine in the rotated engine position, it will requre connecting a ratchet strap to the engine and to the frame or radiator core support.

5. Reverse the procedure when you have completed the task that required rotating the engine. Place the transaxle in "Park", and torque the strut to engine bracket bolts to 35 ft lbs.


MY QUESTION IS, THIS SEEMS TO SIMPLE TO ROTATE THE ENGINE, I HAVE NEVER DONE ANYTHING LIKE THIS BEFORE, IN REGARD TO ROTATING AN ENGINE, AND CAN'T IMAGINE THIS ENGINE WILL JUST ROTATE AFTER REMOVING TWO BOLTS, PLACING A PRY BAR TO MOVE IT, AND SECURING IT WITH A RACHET STRAP.

WHAT ABOUT THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD, ALL THE HARD COMPRESSION LINES, THE ENGINE APPEARS LIKE I WOULD NEED TO REMOVE 10-20 ITEMS BEFORE IT WOULD BE ABLE TO ROTATE FREELY. AM I WRONG?

CAN YOU TELL ME THE CORRECT PROCEDURE TO ROTATE THIS ENGINE SO I CAN GET TO THE REAR PLUGS PLEASE.

THE CAR HAS FAILED STATE INSPECTION (NJ) BECAUSE THE EGR VALVE IS NOT GETTING ENOUGH AIR FLOW. THAT IS WHAT THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT CODE HAS SHOWN. I HAVE REPLACED THE EGR 4 TIMES ALREADY IN THE LAST YEAR, EACH TIME THE NEW EGR WORKS FOR ABOUT 300 MILES, IT ALSO CLEARS THE COMPUTER CODE AFTER 50 MILES, THEN WITHIN 300 OR SO MILES COMES BACK ON. STATE INSPECTION SIMPLY SEES THE ERROR CODE AND FAILS THE CAR WITHOUT CHECKING THE ACTUAL EMMISIONS.

I WANT TO CHANGE THE PLUGS AND WIRES, THEY HAVE NEVER BEEN CHANGED, MY DAD GAVE ME THE CAR, AND HE SAID HE NEVER CHANGED THE PLUGS OR WIRES. THE CAR RUNS FINE, BUT MAYBE THE PLUGS NEED REPLACEING AND THIS WILL KEEP THE EGR CLEANER FOR LONGER.

HELP!
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Monday, May 5th, 2008 AT 1:25 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
It works, I used to have a 3.1 olds that I did it to several times, I did it with the strap first then I ordered this simple tool on ebay called an engine tilter its a one piece tool that will crank the engine up with ease when you put it in the place of the left dogbone and use a wratchet to do it. It awesome. Another thing make sure that egr tube isn't clogged. And change that pcv valve and you should be o.K. I will try to send you a pic of that engine tilter. Good tool to have, because there are several vehicles that its still needed on.
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Monday, May 5th, 2008 AT 2:45 PM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
This one is only 4.50 plus 7.00 s/h. Its the one I got.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/88091_3800177588168080_1_1.jpg

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Monday, May 5th, 2008 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
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This one here is like 35.00 plus shipping. its probably better but I don't know, never used it and the other one does the job


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/88091_2502425096078080_1_1.jpg

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Monday, May 5th, 2008 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
BMAC1011
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Not sure if this is the correct place to respond, but here it goes.

First of thanks for your response sir. My concern is how far am I moving the engine to gain access to the plugs, and is there anything else that needs to be removed or loosened so the engine will tilt freely. Such as the exhaust manifold, or compression lines? There seems to be lots of things to remove first, is this correct? I will get the cheapy engine tilter. Any info you can send my way is greatly appreciated. Oh can you tell me how much the engine needs to be rotated to gain access to the plugs, just wondering.
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Monday, May 5th, 2008 AT 6:17 PM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
No, just tilt it far enough to get your hands and wratchet in the space. Don't be nervous your not gonna break anything. When your done, let it down and let it down gently. But don't worry there is nothing you have to move out the way. I know it seems strange when you look at it. But thats the way I felt too.
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Monday, May 5th, 2008 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
BMAC1011
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
====

Thanks alot, I will purchase the cheapo engine tilter and give it a shot. I will keep my fingers crossed. And just to clarify something, when you say just enough to get the wratchet and hands in, how much space would you say that is approximately, three inches, six inches or more or less than that?

I just don't want to screw anything up.

Thanks again, your help is very much appreciated.
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Tuesday, May 6th, 2008 AT 8:55 AM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
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WELL YOU CAN CRANK THAT SUCKER TWO FEET OR MORE BACK IF YOU WANT TO. BUT i'M SAYING WHATEVER IS COMFORTABLE FOR YOU
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Tuesday, May 6th, 2008 AT 11:29 AM
Tiny
WSWJONES08
  • MEMBER
  • 38 POSTS
One other thing you can do is unbolt the engine mounts connecting to the front of the car, and then use a tie-down and crank the engine forward. I did this with mine, worked absolutely fine.
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Tuesday, June 3rd, 2008 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
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Yes that will work too. I did that the first time I had to do plugs
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Tuesday, June 3rd, 2008 AT 11:13 PM

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