1993 Chevy Blazer Car Buzzer and shifter arm.

1993 S10 BLAZER 4X4 CPI

MEMBER
1993 CHEVROLET BLAZER
6 CYL
4WD
AUTOMATIC
220,000 MILES

I have a buzzer that worked properly until recently. It used to only buzz when I would leave the keys in the ignition or forget to turn off my headlights and leave the car. It buzzes after turn on the lights when I have started the car. Please help. There is a short somewhere because it recently drained my battery. I had the alternator checked and it is good. I replaced the ignition switch, key cylinder, and the key tab that connects when you put the key in the ignition and the problem was not solved. I have a car alarm, but have removed that also. The car starts and the buzzer still activated when I turn on the lights.

I also have problem with the drive shift engage arm. After I replaced the above items I cannot shift into gear. I plan to take apart again and see what is wrong with shift.

9 Replies

SCOTTY DEE

MECHANIC
592 POSTS

Good news! You don't have a short. Bad news, you have a parasitic current draw. Connect a voltmeter to the battery by removing the negative battery cable. Put the positive side of the voltmeter to the Neg cable, and the negative side of the voltmeter to the negative terminal at the battery.

Disconnect the audio alarm module, pull the IGN fuse and see if the voltmeter drops, then your on the right circuit.

As far as the gear shift select, check the linkage at the transmission for binding or unwinding in the cable.

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Friday, January 29th, 2010 AT 6:54 PM

1993 S10 BLAZER 4X4 CPI

MEMBER
5 POSTS

Thanks Scotty! I fixed the shifter arm, but not the short. I worked on the Blazer this weekend and I did what you told me.

I placed a volt meter between the Negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable (I previously pulled the alarm module). I got a reading of 11.70 volts. I then checked the voltage of the battery and it was 12.30 volts. I opened the door and the voltage went up to 12.20 volts (meter between battery and cable).

Thats when I realized that something is pulling 11.70 volts when the car is off. At first I thought it was a voltage drop, but then realized that the volt meter should read zero. What could pull 11.70 volts? And have an ohm reading of 50 when ohm meter set to 2000?

I then had a friend check out the reading (between battery and cable) as I pulled out all the fuses one at a time. Door was closed. No drop of voltage. I then pulled out all the relays I could see inside cab and still no drop. (Thought maybe a relay stuck to on)

MY NEXT STEP is to check relays under the hood and check and pull all wires that are connected to the fuse block. I will also check wires going to transmission.

I failed to mention that the transmission is stuck on (I feel) 2nd gear. It happened since the smog test on the 19th of January 2010. They gunned the gas pedal and really forced my Blazer. I started to get all these problems after that smog check.

I did fix the problem with the shifter arm. I had placed the ignition switch without turning the key to accesory and moving the switch to accesory. The key was not alligning in column to allow the shifter to change into gear.

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Monday, February 1st, 2010 AT 7:48 AM

1993 S10 BLAZER 4X4 CPI

MEMBER
5 POSTS

I worked on car last night and I went through alot of fuse block and interior plugs. I disconnected one by one to see if I would get a voltage drop in the reading, but I made things worse. I got to the buzzer box and disconnnected it and when I read the volt meter it went to full blown 12.30 volts. It was reading 11.70 volts as a voltage draw. Now I kind of know the area of where the short is at. Under the dash area. It might be in steering column?

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Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010 AT 7:19 AM

SCOTTY DEE