1998 Cadillac Seville SLS dashboard-electric

TDC

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1998 CADILLAC SEVILLE

Electrical problem
1998 Cadillac Seville V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 70k miles

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Cadillac Technician
gstacey

1998 Cadillac Seville sls
70k miles

Key-on engine-off, all electric works, info center displays correct info, radio, all lights, windows ac-fan, windows, etc. Works.

But with the Engine running; dashboard acts erratic, shows categories but no data-info, gas guage goes from 1/2 fuill to empty and back again over and over, headlights are on but you can't turn them off, windows don't work, radio lights are on but no sound from speakers, ac-fan speed switch works but no ac.

Car-engine starts, runs, can be driven ok except for the electrial problems listed, no ac, windows, radio, etc.

I Checked the battery, it has full proper volts with engine off and on.

Driver says that the Add coolant light has been on for 1 month but the temp guage has always been right in the middle. I checked it, it needs about 1 quart, I Just bought some premix dex-cool, haven't put it in yet.

Why does everything electrical work with key-on-engine-off but not when the engine is running?

k-o-e-o: You get data on every reading. Bell works when the key is in and the door is open and when you turn the key, gas guages work, fan works, windows work, headlight switch works, radio works, volts show as 12.0-ok.

But when the engine-is-turned-on and running all of the problems begin. Fan works but no a/c. Radio lights up but no sound from speakers, windows don't work, headlights are on but can't be turned off, info display shows up but loses all data.

Later on:

I had the owner basic-test the electrical components with key-on-engine-off for only 5 minutes, the battery-volts was showing 11.0-ok at first on the display and a few minutes later when checking it again it went down to 9.0-low volts on the display?

And then when checking the volts again on the dashboard/info display now there was no data for volts.

The battery should hardly have been affected by this low-level of testing.

All we did was checked that the bell was working when the key is in and the door is open a few times, and go through the dash-display to see that there was data for each category. Turned the radio and the fan on for a minute or 2

?

I have a battery charger and will go over there to charge the battery and get the car running again. I have a codescout 1500 scan tool and will use it. Any suggestion what to look for?

update: The battery was at 5, 6 volts, I charged the battery on a 10 amp battery charger for a lomg time and it then was up to 14.3 volts with a multi-meter.

I started up the car and the electric was acting erratic as before, after 10-15 minutes engine running everything started to work as it should, radio came on, ac was working. Windows and all lights worked, dash info showed all readings.

Voltrage read as 14.0, with AC on it went to 13.9. At first with everything working the radio light and sound would just cut out and come back on, once the ac cut off and came back on. After awhile everything was working ok.

But you could tell that the problem would be coming back.

The next day upon startting the car the dash display showed no info for the different readings just dashes.

I'm waiting now to see how they did because they had to use the car to go somewhere.

I will update this as soon as I hear how the car did on the road.

We cannot fix this ourselves, unless it's an easily accesable repair and/or parts. We'll most probably have to take it to a mechanic, but we want to try and figure out what's wrong with the car-electric, rule-out unneeded expensive mechanic quotes, such as unneeded computer repairs-parts, etc, befiore we give the car to a mechanic for an estimate-$$$

Can you help me diagnose this problem.

Thank you,
tdc

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Wednesday, August 18th, 2010 AT 3:30 PM

25 Replies

TDC

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Later on:

I had the owner basic-test the electrical components with key-on-engine-off for only 5 minutes, the battery-volts was showing 11.0-ok at first on the display and a few minutes later when checking it again it went down to 9.0-low volts on the display?

And then when checking the volts again on the dashboard/info display now there was no data for volts.

The battery should hardly have been affected by this low-level of testing.

All we did was checked that the bell was working when the key is in and the door is open a few times, and go through the dash-display to see that there was data for each category. Turned the radio and the fan on for a minute or 2

?

I have a battery charger and will go over there to charge the battery and get the car running again. I have a codescout 1500 scan tool and will use it. Any suggestion what to look for?

Update: The battery was at 5, 6 volts, I charged the battery on a 10 amp battery charger for a lomg time and it then was up to 14.3 volts with a multi-meter.

I started up the car and the electric was acting erratic as before, after 10-15 minutes engine running everything started to work as it should, radio came on, ac was working. Windows and all lights worked, dash info showed all readings.

Voltrage read as 14.0, with AC on it went to 13.9. At first with everything working the radio light and sound would just cut out and come back on, once the ac cut off and came back on. After awhile everything was working ok.

But you could tell that the problem would be coming back.

The next day upon startting the car the dash display showed no info for the different readings just dashes.

I'm waiting now to see how they did because they had to use the car to go somewhere.

I will update this as soon as I hear how the car did on the road.

They were able to start the car and drive it to three places restart the car each time and drive home, but with the engine running there was no; radio, windows, sideview mirrors, trunk button doesn't work, dash info says battery volts ok but no # of volts or sometimes just dashes show up, no outside temperature-just dashes, the fan speed switch works but there's no AC, etc.

With the key-on engiine not running everything electrical does work.

With no key there is no clock showing, isn't that supposed to be on all of the time?

I didn't run the scan tool yet.

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Thursday, August 19th, 2010 AT 6:16 PM

FACTORYJACK

MECHANIC
4,159 POSTS

I am going to do a little research, and I will get back asap. I am wondering if it is an ignition switch. I have had them in the past, cause issues. Often times it was a phantom stall that would occur at any time. In the mean time, when it is acting up, manipulate with the key, and create some disturbance around the switch. Banging on the dash and such, to see if you can induce changes.

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Thursday, August 19th, 2010 AT 10:51 PM

FACTORYJACK

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Does the vehicle have ANYTHING aftermarket installed(radio, sunroof, lo-jack, alarm), if so it may need to come out, or be disconnected. With the key on, and engine off, have you run the diagnostics through the IPC, what are the codes? There are a few things to check initially. Swap out the ignition 1 and ignition 3 relays in the rear junction block, there are probably several others like it in that fuse block. It probably won't have an effect, but maybe. Check all the fuses, you can use a test light, just make sure you can trust it is working. Pay particular attention to a fuse(s) that have no power on either side, more when the vehicle is exhibiting the symptom, and report them. Does the data reset, or after it is displaying dashes and returns, it has the same values as before.
I don't feel the low coolant light is related, probably just low on coolant. The clock only displays in ACC, Key-on, and RAP, until a door is opened. And has the battery been tested, it sounds like it has a low reserve. Not that it is playing a part in the cause, it discharging can be a hinderance.

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Thursday, August 19th, 2010 AT 11:54 PM

TDC

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No aftermarket add-ons.

Does the data reset, or after it is displaying dashes and returns, it has the same values as before?

It resets.

The battery is ok now, I charged it for a very long time at 10 amps.

Why did it disharge so fast during a 10-15 minute key-on-engine-off basic elec testing, no heavy elec use at all, and then after we stopped the elec testing with key-on-engine-off the volts were down to 9.0, then overnight it went down to 5.0 on it's own?

I will run the codescout 1500 scan tool today and will get back to you with the readout.

If it was a fuse then wouldn't there be no power at all to the components it covers, or can a fuse be working erraticly causing this problem?

When I test the fuses do I take the fuse out to test across the circuit, leave the fuse in and test across the circuit, or am I also taking the fuse out and testing the fuse itself?

What do I do to perform this part of the fuse test?

"Pay particular attention to a fuse(s) that have no power on either side"

I do have a test light, have necer used it before. I have never done any elec work on this car. Only on an old Plymouth 318.

I'll catch on, but I'm not sure if you want me to check the fuse socket, the fuse itself, or both.

I have a decent multi-meter for any testing that you recommend.

I'm going there now. I'll get back to you later with the test results.

They just told me that the clock shows 12:00 when the engine is running. With key-on-engine-off the clock shows the correct time. They also said that when driving today they only had dashes for temp and bat-volts on the info display.

After driving the car for 5 minutes and the car then being turned off for 1 hour the display read 12.9 volts with key-on-engine-off, before they started the car again.

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Friday, August 20th, 2010 AT 2:53 PM

TDC

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When I test the fuses do I take the fuse out to test across the circuit, leave the fuse in and test across the circuit, or am I also taking the fuse out and testing the fuse itself?

What do I do to perform this part of the fuse test?

"Pay particular attention to a fuse(s) that have no power on either side"

I do have a test light, have necer used it before. I have never done any elec work on this car. Only on an old Plymouth 318.

I'll catch on, but I'm not sure if you want me to check the fuse socket, the fuse itself, or both.

I have a decent multi-meter for any testing that you recommend.

Have you run the diagnostics through the IPC, what are the codes?

How do I run the ipc codes from the dash info buttons?

When I went to use my code scout 1500 scan tool it would only show the 1st screen with the tools patent#, and pressing the buttons would not show anything else. I took out the new batteries and reinstallled them 10 times but now the code scanner will not even turn on?

How do I run the ipc codes from the dash info buttons?

If you drive the car around for awhile the AC and other electric starts to work but after the car is off for awhile the symptoms come back again when you 1st start the car up.

I had the car running for awhile with the headlights off in the driveway and the AC and all electrical was working, every now and then the headlights would come on by themselves and then shut off even though the manual and auto hl switches were both off.

Iam trying to give you as many symtoms as I can so that you can help to direct me to the problem area.

Ididn't check the fuses or relays yet. Can you tell me how to check the fuses and/or the fuse sockets?

How do I hook up the test light or multimeter and how do I check for power at either side as you said?

Thanks,
tdc

I just had the owner of the car do a basic test. The car had 11.6 volts with no key. After starting the car there was all dashes on the info temp and volts, no power to windows or radio, etc. S

Soon thereafter the AC and all electric did start to work. Then the volts went to 14.0.

The gas guage was at first not working then it started to go om and offover and over and then just went to empty and stayed there. Even after 15 minutes of idling the engine the gas guage read empty with a full tank of gas.

Also the temp on the display changed over to all dashes towards the end of the test. But the volts was reading 14.0.

The owner says that starting 1 month ago when driving the check airbag message would shouw up and that more recently the check auto theft system message shows up when driving.

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Sunday, August 22nd, 2010 AT 3:42 PM

TDC

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How do I get the ipc codes from the dash buttons?

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Tuesday, August 24th, 2010 AT 6:39 PM

FACTORYJACK

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Sorry it took me so long to get back, was having computer issues. In order to enter diagnostics, and it is limited to trouble codes/clearing trouble codes, you use the info button and the on/off button. Press and hold info up, and on/off until all the segments illuminate, and then release. The drivers info message will read ALL? Just for simplicity, we will use ALL, so press on/off again and it will change to ALL CODES. If you press on/off again, it will start displaying codes(if any) from all modules, in alphabetical order. If there are no codes in a module, it will say NO XXX CODES, and if there is no data it should say NO XXX DATA. This no data isn't always the case, if there is a module that is not communicating at all on the buss, it may not even show up. There should be upwards of 22 modules at least, I think about 24 to be exact. You can do this procedure with key on, or key on-running. The only time it won't work is if there is another scanner plugged in the DLC. It looks like your code scout is just a code reader. If that is the case, those are usually limited to emissions related codes, powertrain and maybe transmission.

If your test light is unpowered, it has a single lead that can either be grounded or powered. In checking a fuse, or if a fused circuit is powered, attach the lead to a good ground, and touch the metal tabs on the back of the fuses(each side of the amp rating), and it will light if a circuit is powered, and light on both sides if a fuse is good. Like I say, when the vehicle is acting up, check as many if not all, of the fused circuits to determine if any are missing power. From there we may be able to isolate a common power source that may be failing(relay, switch, fuse block, etc.)

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Tuesday, August 24th, 2010 AT 11:00 PM

TDC

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Here are the codes:

C-Current H-History

ABS: C1252-C C-1253-C C1298-C U1255-C P-ID-7208

AMP: U1255-H U1128-H U1064-H
U1016-H P-ID-836B

DDM: U1064-H U1065-H U1066-H
P-ID-6214

DIM: U1300-H U1255-H P-ID-8270

IPC: U1160-H U1064-H U1065-H
U1066-H U1088-H U1040-H U1255-H U1300-H U1301-H P-ID-807A

IPM: U1255-H U1064-H U1066-H

IRC: U1129-H U1064-H U1065-H
U1160-H U1016-H P-ID-F895

PCM: P1602-H P1611-H P1612-H P1614-H P1652-C

RIM: U1255-C 1065-H U1160-H
U1064-H U1016-H U1096-H

SDM: B1147-H B1148-H B1159-H
B1160-H B1163-H U1301-H U1096-H U1064-H U1255-H B1327-H
P-ID-8960

The problem clears up as the engine is warmed up. There are alot of fuses, which ones should I try 1st while the problem isstill happening, and should I be testing the fuses under the hood or just the fuses under the back seat?

The test light is for 110 volt, so I'll have to use the multimeter to test the fuses.

Thanks,
tdc

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Wednesday, August 25th, 2010 AT 3:21 AM

FACTORYJACK

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Was that all the modules that displayed, or just the ones that had codes? Initially, all the codes that had a U prefix, are communications fault codes. None of them suggest a common source of the fault, which would lead me more to thinking you have a module power fault. After having them recorded, I would recommend clearing them all. Run the vehicle until it exhibits failure and then run the diagnostics again and see which codes have returned. If you are having dashes display, and having the data reset after a fault, I would look at fuses that supply power to those modules, things labeled as HVAC, AMP(AUDIO), IGN 1, IGN 3. This type of problem may occur with a loss of power supply, a poor ground that fails under load, or even a class 2 communications fault(short to ground/power, open circuit). The fact that it occurs only when running, leads me to a power supply, but I have never experienced a fault of this nature. Keep in mind that with the airbag light, theft warning, and the low coolant message, it may have some other issues that are coincidental

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Friday, August 27th, 2010 AT 12:53 AM

TDC

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Just the 10 modules that had codes, I'll clear the codes and test again. But there were not that many that showed no codes or no data. That's far short of the 22-24 modules that you said there are. What does that mean?

The only way I was able to write down the codes for each module was to go through the list of modules 1 at a time, not the whole modules list at one time. Aren't all of the modules listed in the 1 at a at a time way too?

I'll check it all out again.

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Friday, August 27th, 2010 AT 9:21 AM

FACTORYJACK

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They should all be there one at a time, and if you select all, it should scroll through them. The ones that have no codes, will say NO XXX CODES. In any aspect, there should be more than 10 present. I could name more than 10 that should be there, RIM/DIM/IPIM/ABS/PCM/VTD/RSS/DDS/VCIM/SDM/LRDM/RRDM/PFDM/DDM/IRC/AMP/NAV/RKE(RFA)/TTM/MSM/MMM/IPC, to name most that you should see. Some vehicles may not have all options, therefore there may be no module, like NAV, and memory seats. But that is just an example.

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Saturday, August 28th, 2010 AT 2:48 PM

TDC

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Everything works with the key-on-engine-off.

Engine on has all of the electrical problems listed in previous posts.

I tested all of the fuses under the back seat and they all had power when the problem was occurring.

The problem occurred most of the time, then all of a sudden the windows, radio, a/c, etc. Would just start working and then stop at random.

Sometimes nothing would be working but the a/c was working.

The dashboard readings were mostly showing readindgs, but sometimes would just start showing dashes or warning messages.

When the fuel guage was working usually everything else would be working. The fuel guage would be working and then all of a sudden stop working and then start working away at random, etc.

Also when the electical-windows-a/c-radio, etc. Were working the headlights would go on, when everything would stop the headlights would shut right off.

As the lights inside the car would go on and off, the dashboard got dimmer, the; windows, a/c, radio, would work and then not work on/off by themselves, I heard alot of clicking coming from the fuse box. That was rhe relays, right?

I had the car idling for 30 minutes or more, I kept rechecking the fuses as the car was acting up, checking the specific ones.

I was using a digital multi-meter set at 20 volts.

The A/C was running the whole time, I turned on the fan for the back seats, which is hardly ever done.

5 minutes later I heard a very-very loud sound-noise and the front of the car had a cloud of white smoke coming out of it. I quickly shut off the car, then restarted it 5 minutes later to see where that freon had leaked out of, to find whaere it had to be fixed.

No luck no more freon came out, so I can't tell where it needs to be fixed.

Why did that happen, could my fuse testing have caused that? I was just using a multi-meter on both sides of the fuse with one-red-lead and the black-lead attached to the batteries ground?

Why did that happen during the fuse test? Was the car idling for too long?

After that there was no more a/c, the fan and speed control has always worked, was never affected by the problem. Now when the electric starts working, radio, windows, headlights, fan-all-speeds, etc,

now there's no a/c.

What part likely now has a leak, or was that a just a safety release of pressure and the system just needs new freon?

I continued the test by going to the fuse box under the hood. The only fuses that didn't have power were the 3 or 4 fuses that were all listed as being related to the headlights-front-lights-etc.

When the car was acting up and there were no head-front-lights, there was no power to those 3-4 fuses, when the headlights would come on again the 3-4 fuses were recieving and sending full power.

When the lights were not working, it seemed like 1 or 2 of those fuses were recieving some voltage, between 0-1 volt.

I switched the ign-1 and ign-3 in the back-seat fuse box, as you told me to, no change.

We're getting ready to take the car to a mechanic, don't want to have to pay for expensive computer parts, if it's only a relay.

Thanks,
tdc

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Thursday, September 9th, 2010 AT 5:48 AM

FACTORYJACK

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I can't see testing the fuses causing the A/C to fail. The only logical explanation I have is that it was (over)pressure blow-off. This would only seem possible if possibly the cooling fans were not operating and the head pressure became to great. The relief valve is on the compressor, and you should have signs of refrigerant oil were the system had expelled. Did any or all of the communications(U) codes return after clearing? You had not mentioned if 10 modules were all that was displaying, or if it was 10 modules that had codes. I honestly think that just a simple relay is not the issue, that it is more like a module that is faulty, a poor ground, or a communications circuit fault. It is a complex system, and trying to identify the cause can be labor intensive. A scan tool that can monitor the communications system may also be useful.

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Tuesday, September 14th, 2010 AT 12:23 AM

TDC

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What would cause the a/c compressor cooling fans to stop or not be on?

Yoy're not referring to the engine cooling fans, right? If you are, what would cause them to stop or not be on.

The engine temp guage was not overheating, but I'll check that they are working.

On this car does the engine and a/c cooling fans go on right away?

Is that a/c compressor cooling fan right in front of, under, or inside the a/c compressor?

It lost all of its freon, there's no cool air, does that sound right?

Can the a/c system symply be refilled, and what caused the fans to shut off, how can it be prevented from happening again.

I had written down all of the modules names, there are 15 of them, and the new U-codes, I left the paper there, I will get those to you soon.

Thanks for your help

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Tuesday, September 14th, 2010 AT 5:37 AM

FACTORYJACK

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The radiator cooling fans are the same as the A/C cooling fans. They should be operating when the A/C is on as an override, or when the A/C is off, they would come on at specific temperatures starting at around 220 deg. If the A/C system is low on refrigerant, it will not cool, if low enough the compressor will not even engage. The cooling fans not operating could be part of your existing condition. The system can be recharged, but you need to have an idea of why the refrigerant was lost. It may not have been blow-off due to overpressure, that is just a possibility.

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Tuesday, September 14th, 2010 AT 11:44 PM

TDC

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It seems that the fans are being affected by the elec problem as well and I wouldn't be surprized if as you had mentioned that the compressor had overheated and released the freon to relieve the pressure.

The temp guage never goes past the center so the engine temp is ok, but the fans must have been off while the a/c was on when the problem occurred.

Here are the codes:

No data for: AMP, DDM, DIM, IPM, RSS, RIM

No code for: RFA

ABS: U1255-C C1252-C C1253-C 1298-C

IPC: U1160-C U1064-C U1065-C U1066-C U1300-C U1192-H U1255-H U1301-H

IRC: U1129-C U1064-H U1065-H U1160-H U1016-H

MSM: U1064-C U1160-C U1300-H

PCM: P1602C P1611-CP1612-C P1613-C P1614-C P1626-C P1652-C P1655-C P1604-H P1615-H

RFA: U1300-H

SPM: U1064-C U1096-H U1255-H B1159-H B1161-H B1163-H

TTMU1160-CU1064-C U1016-H U1300-H U1255-H

VTD: U1064-C U1016-H B1327-H

During idle the engine is starting to falter a bit, making a light thumping noise, soundlng like it might stall. What might be causing that?

Is it safe to drive the car if the the cooling fans are acting up but the temp guage is never going above the safe center reading?

Is it likely that the cooling fan problem is only when the a/cneeds them.

A/C off: When I started up the car the cooling fans came on full force and then shut down soon thereafter. I wanted to make sure that they were working right for cooling the engine.

I wasn't sure if they were supposed to be on all of the time. As you said they come on at 220 degrees.

I checked and the cooling fans were on with the engine running after 10-15 minutes.

The temperature guage never went past the safe-center position.

Tune-up
Because of that rough idle-thumping noise: Is a tune-up on this car just a change of spark plugs, air filter, pcv valve? Are there any adjustments?

A/C Cooling fan test
If the compressor is so low on freon that it won't engage, will the cooling fans still go on as long as the temp control is set to A/C-fan on, on the temp control panel?

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Wednesday, September 15th, 2010 AT 9:52 PM

TDC

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I donated $3 on 9-15 for a total of $10, but it's not credited to this post:

1998 Cadillac Seville sls dashboard-electric

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Tdc

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Saturday, September 18th, 2010 AT 4:03 PM

FACTORYJACK

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Really very frustrated after spending the last half hour composing an e-mail, only to have the system drop out and lose everything. I suspect you have a communications fault. The nature will need to be determined through diagnosis. It can be a circuit wiring problem(open/short), a certain module corrupting or shorting the system, or power/grounding of a module. With the bizarre symptoms, I would suspect a fault in a module, or a short to ground in the communications circuit. With all of the U codes that return current, that is what I base my speculation on. The modules that show no data, are all powered from the rear fuse block, and you said all the fuses in the block had power, so we can only assume that power is at the modules listed. The statement of it being a relay or something simple, I don't feel applies. It is possible that the modules acn be disconnected, one at a time, and process of elimination may lead to the corrupted one. Circuit checks from module to module could be carried out when all of the connectors and modules can be accessed. It would be best to have a manual with electrical schematics on hand. The way the online service information is layed out, it would encompass several pages of schematics, component locations, connector end views, and also component R&R procedures. I will give you the ignition switch schematic, as well as the class 2 to illustrate. The ignition switch plays a common role in supplying power to the DIM, as well as receives power from, and delivers to, the rear fuse block.

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Monday, September 20th, 2010 AT 11:12 PM

TDC

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Before I take the car to a mechanic are there any easily assecible checks I can do to find a; ground, short to ground, circuit wiring open/short, problem?

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Wednesday, September 22nd, 2010 AT 1:54 PM

FACTORYJACK

MECHANIC
4,159 POSTS

Ideally, you are going to want a scan tool to connect and validate that a class 2 device, or the class 2 system can not be communicated with. There is no one ground that is common with the modules on the buss, and they are located throughout the vehicle. The only possibility, is determining if there has been anything done to the vehicle that may play a part in causing a fault. Body repair, aftermarket stuff removed or installed(I know you said there was none), major repairs that could have left wiring susceptible to heat or other damage, could name a few. In looking at your list of codes, the only thing remotely synonimous is that most control units(the ones that use info from) set faults with the modules that show no data. The U1300 code, is class 2 short to ground, and a few modules had reported it. The IPC even reported a U1301 which is a short to voltage. Shorts to voltage are more rare, because they have to be more specific in nature. A short to ground can occur anywhere. The fault chart for Scan tool does not communicate with class 2 is lengthy, because there is no sure shot way to track down a fault. I have included that for your reference. Basically, it has you do what I have stated, and that is disconnect the modules one at a time, until communication is restored.

Scan Tool Does Not Communicate with Class 2 Data Line
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Was the Diagnostic System Check performed?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Data Link Communications System Check

2
Connect the scan tool to another vehicle of the same model year (to ensure proper operation of the scan tool).
Turn the ignition switch to RUN.
Attempt to establish communication with the vehicle.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 3

3
The scan tool may be malfunctioning. Refer to the scan tool instruction manual in order to ensure that the scan tool is functioning.

Does the scan tool operate properly?
--
Go to Data Link Communications System Check
--

4
Connect the scan tool to the original vehicle.
Verify that the scan tool connections are clean and tight.
Is the terminal contact between the DLC and the scan tool OK?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 5

5
Repair the terminal contact at the DLC.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

6
Turn the ignition switch to RUN.

Does the scan tool turn on?
--
Go to Step 12
Go to Step 7

7
Measure the voltage between the DLC terminal 16 and chassis ground.

Is the voltage within the specified range?
10-15 V
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 8

8
Repair the open or short to ground in CKT 3640 (ORN).

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

9
Measure the voltage from the DLC terminal 16 to terminal 5.

Is the voltage within specified range?
10-15 V
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 10

10
Repair the open in CKT 351 (BLK/WHT).

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

11
Check for voltage from DLC terminal 16 to terminal 4.

Is the voltage within specified range?
10-15 V
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 12

12
Repair the open in CKT 450 (BLK).

Is the circuit repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

13
Disconnect the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Attempt to establish communications with the Dash Integration Module (DIM).
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 15

14
Replace the PCM.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

15
Disconnect the Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBCTM).
Attempt to establish communication with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 18

16
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) between the EBTCM terminal 10 and the PCM C1 terminal 59 for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+).

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 17

17
Replace the EBTCM.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

18
Is the vehicle equipped with A45?
--
Go to Step 19
Go to Step 21

19
Disconnect the Memory Seat Module (MSM).
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 20
Go to Step 21

20
Replace the MSM.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

21
Is the vehicle equipped with a cellular telephone module?
--
Go to Step 22
Go to Step 24

22
Disconnect the cellular telephone module.
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 23
Go to Step 24

23
Replace the cellular telephone module.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

24
Disconnect the instrument cluster (IPC).
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 25
Go to Step 27

25
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) between the IPC C2 terminal B8 and the EBTCM terminal 26 for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+).

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 26

26
Replace the IPC.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71

27
Disconnect the Pass-Key III Theft Deterrent Module.
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 28
Go to Step 30

28
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) between the Pass-Key III Theft Deterrent Module terminal E and the IPC C1 terminal B8 for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+).

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 29

29
Replace the Pass-Key III Theft Deterrent Module.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

30
Is the vehicle equipped with N37?
--
Go to Step 31
Go to Step 33

31
Disconnect the steering column tilt/telescoping module.
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 32
Go to Step 33

32
Replace the steering column tilt/telescoping module.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

33
Is the vehicle equipped with UY4?
--
Go to Step 37
Go to Step 34

34
Disconnect the radio.
Attempt to establish communication with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 35
Go to Step 37

35
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) between the radio terminal E6 and the Pass-Key II Theft Deterrent Module terminal E for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+).

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 36

36
Replace the radio.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

37
Disconnect the Instrument Panel Integration Module (IPM).
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 40

38
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or a battery positive voltage (B+) between the IPM C1 terminal C7 and one of the following components:

"� Radio terminal F6 (W/O UY4).

"� Pass-Key III Theft Deterrent Module Terminal E (W/ UY4).

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 39

39
Replace the IPM.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

40
Disconnect the Left Front Door Module (LFDM).
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 41
Go to Step 42

41
Replace the LFDM.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

42
Disconnect the Remote Keyless Entry Module (RKE).
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 43
Go to Step 44

43
Replace the RKE module.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

44
Is the vehicle equipped with U84?
--
Go to Step 47
Go to Step 45

45
Disconnect the radio amplifier.
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 46
Go to Step 56

46
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) between the radio amplifier C1 terminal B11 (W/U48), C3 terminal 5 (W/U49) and one of the following components:

"� RKE module terminals 3 and 4.

"� MSM C2 terminals D14 and D15.

"� LFDM C1 terminal 13.

"� PCM C1 terminal 58.

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 55

47
Disconnect the radio.
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 48
Go to Step 50

48
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) between the radio C1 terminal F6 and the RKE module terminal 3.

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 49

49
Replace the radio.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

50
Disconnect the navigation data processor.
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 51
Go to Step 53

51
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) between the radio C1 terminal E6 and the navigation data processor C1 terminal 2.

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 52

52
Replace the navigation data processor.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

53
Disconnect the radio amplifier.
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 54
Go to Step 56

54
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) between the radio amplifier C1 terminal B11 (W/U48), C3 terminal 5 (W/U49) and the navigation data processor C1 terminal 3.

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 55

55
Replace the radio amplifier.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

56
Is the vehicle equipped with F45?
--
Go to Step 57
Go to Step 60

57
Disconnect the CVRSS module.
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 58
Go to Step 60

58
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) between the CVRSS module C1 terminal D4 and the radio amplifier.

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 59

59
Replace the CVRSS module.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 70
--

60
Disconnect the Rear Integration Module (RIM).
Attempt to establish communication with the DIM.
Does the vehicle communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 61
Go to Step 63

61
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) between the RIM C2 terminal B3 and the CVRSS module (W/F45), or the radio amplifier (W/O F45).

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 62

62
Replace the RIM.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

63
Disconnect the inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM).
Attempt to establish communications with the DIM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 64
Go to Step 66

64
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) between the SDM terminal 5 and the following components:

"� RIM C2 terminal B4.

"� Cellular telephone module terminal 9.

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 65

65
Replace the SDM.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

66
Reconnect the IPM.
Disconnect the DIM.
Attempt to establish communications with the IPM.
Does the scan tool communicate with the vehicle?
--
Go to Step 67
Go to Step 69

67
Inspect CKT 1807 (PPL) for a short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) between the DIM C2 terminal A11 and the SDM terminal 17.

Was a short found?
--
Go to Step 70
Go to Step 68

68
Replace the DIM.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

69
Repair an open or short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) in CKT 1807 (PPL) between the DLC terminal 2 and one of the following components:

"� IPM C1 terminal C8.

"� DIM C2 terminal A12.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

70
Repair the short to ground or battery positive voltage (B+) in CKT 1807 (PPL).

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Step 71
--

71
Reconnect or reinstall any connectors or components that were disconnected or removed.
Clear all of the DTC's.
Are all of the DTC's cleared?
--
Go to Data Link Communications System Check
--

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Wednesday, September 22nd, 2010 AT 11:21 PM